7040, 7045 driveline strength
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=206257
Printed Date: 15 Apr 2025 at 11:44pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7040, 7045 driveline strength
Posted By: callis
Subject: 7040, 7045 driveline strength
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2025 at 10:57pm
| What would be the max power either of these tractors could handle in both a farming AND pulling application? I'm refering from the flywheel to the pto and everything in between. What breaks where and at what power? I realize the torque required in farming is a whole different animal than the short stint of pulling but the weak points show in the same places I would assume? Always wanted to slap a 3116 CAT in 7000 series Allis. Have the engine. What hp do I build it to? Can be 150hp-350hp and 400ft/lbs-900ft/lbs torque with factory parts easily. Hence the questions |
Replies:
Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2025 at 7:22am
|
I had two 3116 Caterpillar engines in medium duty trucks, (rollback/winching) service. Both were worked hard, and required cylinder heads from cracking. Both were set close to 250hp. Don't know about the tractor, but I see a lot of the 7000 series with broken transmissions in one form or another at factory settings in farm service. FWIW of course. ------------- That's All Folks! |
Posted By: callis
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2025 at 7:41am
| Is the transmission problem due to shock loading or are they just not heavily built? I've heard of issues in the 7580 with transmissions I think? |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2025 at 8:08am
|
You are asking about durability of a 50 year old tractor? Anything can break anywhere anytime. Having said that - the 7000 was one of if not the heaviest built per HP tractor. We sold and serviced hundreds and can still count the few failures - most due to lack of maintenance. The first 7030-50's had an issue that showed up on the 4or 5 speed - and the drop boxes could have issues at high hours. That's it. The issue is they are so heavy. You got to have some kind of special class to allow a heavy tractor with an engine transplant. As to farming with it - the weakest part would be the nut behind the steering wheel :-) All units went thru beak down testing at 10% over rated power. ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2025 at 9:39am
| A "3116" Cat engine is 402 cubic inches and a bored block. |
Posted By: callis
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2025 at 9:48am
If this wild hair ever does get pulled it will mostly be a farm tractor that is over powered for it's job. The only time full power will get used is probably discing in front of a field fire. It will run down the track once a year at a local farm tractor pull that I'd say has some pretty lenient rules. The reason I ask this in the pulling forum is this is where the most knowledge of stuff breaking probably originates
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Posted By: callis
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2025 at 9:52am
| If something can be beefed up before being completely together I want to know about it is probably the best way I can describe what I'm asking. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2025 at 10:56am
| I know where there are a couple that pull 12 MPH "farm stock" classes and are at 500 to 600 HP and have done nothing to the standard transmission for "beefing it up". You know that all the Farmall's have an additional after-market center bearing on their countershaft in the transmission, right ?? |
Posted By: callis
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2025 at 12:28pm
| Did not know that. But not a farmall fan either. |
Posted By: callis
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2025 at 1:20pm
| Will a 7040 with only two side gears in the diff be usable or would only a 7045/7060 differential be useable? If a 7040 diff would work I would be happy as I already have 2 7040's with bad engines. One PS and the other PD. Would it be a good idea to add a brass bearing shaft like on a semi axle behind the ring gear to prevent ring gear flex at the pinion? IDK what the technical term is for that... |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2025 at 7:15pm
| Two-pinion differential is FINE !!! Just carry the oil level higher, like an inch or two above the top sight glass. I have removed the lower sight glass and plugged the hole, then drilled a hole for a new upper one. Been there dun that. Now, if you are talking running road gear, the two pinion should be "needled" on the little gears. Any higher HP puller has that done. Brass rub block behind the ring gear not needed until you have enough cocoanuts under the hood to run road gear or faster. |
Posted By: NEVER green
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2025 at 9:01am
|
Torque limiter will slip at 300 hp +, need six pad plate, double bevel springs pulled tight. ------------- 2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50 |
Posted By: callis
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2025 at 7:40am
| Thank you very much for all the info fellas! I tend to over build and over think things so your wealth of information is greatly appreciated! |