Clutch adjustment
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=206082
Printed Date: 02 Apr 2025 at 2:53pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Clutch adjustment
Posted By: AveryD12
Subject: Clutch adjustment
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2025 at 6:00pm
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Is there an adjustment for the D12 series clutch? With the clutch pedal all the way down my clutch will start to engage as soon as I begin to lift my foot. I don’t see any obvious way to lengthen the rod that would disengage the clutch. Is this another issue other than adjustment ? Thanks Avery |
Replies:
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2025 at 8:11pm
Best way to examine what's going on is to have a helper actuate the clutch, while you are under the tractor with a flash light, looking up at the clutch and clutch rod, through the inspection door. IIRR, the adjustment is in the length of the linkage rod, you remove it from the pedal, and screw it out or in, reconnect to check the operation. You also want to inspect the fork, TO bearing and clutch lining, looking up through the inspection hole... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: AveryD12
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2025 at 8:33pm
| Thanks Dave. I wasn’t sure if there was an adjustment or not. I couldn’t imagine there not being some way to adjust it. I will take a look and see if I can spot anything outstanding. I suppose screwing out on the rod would lengthen it and therefore giving more release on the clutch disc? |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2025 at 10:52pm
| you must have a gap like 1/8 inch between throw out bearing and pressure plate fingers their may be a specific muesurement in the book but that will get it going without hurting the bearing or plate |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2025 at 11:37pm
| Ideally, that is pretty much how I adjust every dry foot clutch that I work on. As the clutch components wear, this dimension keeps changing and moving the pedal closer and closer to you. Adjusted this way sees to it the throw out bearing keeps away from the clutch finger tips for many years down the road, leading to long clutch life without any adjustment seldom ever needed. As long as you can shift gears easily and start/stop the tractor easily, there is NOTHING wrong. |
Posted By: AveryD12
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2025 at 4:16pm
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Thanks Mike and Doc. I pulled the inspection cover and looks like the TO bearing is shot. Lots of slop in it and what appears to be fine metal shavings around the bearing. The adjustment is fully extended. It looks like a 1/4” (or more) between TO bearing and fingers on pressure plate. I’ll try to post a couple pictures. Thanks again.   
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2025 at 4:39pm
| So, the whole story is.......it didn't used to be like this and the clutch pedal positioning has CHANGED. Normal clutch wear and tear always keep moving the clutch pedal to the rear. NOT the way yours was. |
Posted By: AveryD12
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2025 at 6:38am
| You are correct. Something has changed. Not exactly sure what changed just yet, other than the TO bearing is shot. When I split the tractor what are some of the things I should be looking for other than the obvious stuff? Should I replace the clutch and pressure plate while the tractor is split? Since clutch pedal rod is fully extended is there other adjustments that can be made….like the fingers on the pressure plate? |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2025 at 8:44am
| replace the presure plate, disk , throw out bearing, piolet bearing , and have the both steps on the flywheel surfaced front seal in the in put shaft if it has been leaking |
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2025 at 8:59am
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HudCo makes a good point I thought my rear main engine seal was leaking, but it was the trans seal. This was on my D 15. Good luck 🤞 |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2025 at 9:18am
| Throwout bearing is likely shot because there wasn't any freeplay in the clutch pedal linkage, causing it to spin all the time. Or maybe it hasn't been greased in 30 years ? Clutch disc is likely worn thin which moves the fingertips closer (too close) to the throwout bearing. |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2025 at 12:37pm
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The D10/12 tractors do not have a stepped flywheel. If it is a series II or III you want to replace the bushings at the front of the driveshafts. I've seen the inner PTO shaft bushing go bad and cause problems. The same goes for the Outer transmission driveshaft. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: AveryD12
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2025 at 6:51pm
| Thanks Paul. I’ll be sure to remember that. |