200 PD high/low range
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=205878
Printed Date: 11 Jul 2025 at 8:27pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 200 PD high/low range
Posted By: dnel45
Subject: 200 PD high/low range
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2025 at 12:42pm
Our 200 slips on high side. We found if you put the tip of a flat head screwdriver between the gate on the selector and the handle it does not slip and holds gear fine even while pulling. We did replace the gate plate on the console for the handle so there is no wear there. Is there an adjustment needed on the high low selector handle? Or am I looking at something more serious? 
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Replies:
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2025 at 1:52pm
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The PD valve is spring loaded and the inner part is what you move with the lever/linkage. The outer part is what moves to control oil flow, the outer part gets sticky and will not move easily all the way to it's normal position. Take it out and clean it up. It will be surprising how gummed up it gets. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2025 at 2:54pm
| There was a service bulletin 45+ years ago about this problem. You can drill a new hole on the horizontal arm below the cab floor to move it forward ever so slightly. This will require grinding away some material on the hydraulic valves support frame due to interference with the vertical rod that comes down from above. OR, you could just rework your hand lever by adding material to the hand lever to do the same thing as your screwdriver. |
Posted By: Ky.Allis
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2025 at 9:40am
| The service bulletin update described by Doc is the way to go. Mine had it done years ago by AC dealer. Really not much to it and it works great. I had a shifting issue a couple years ago with "jerky" shifting and removed the valve, cleaned it and gave it a light honing and problem solved. I was amazed at how much crud had built up in it. |
Posted By: dnel45
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2025 at 2:33pm
Doc - you talking about drilling a new hole just forward of the old hole that connects the rod to the arm? 
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2025 at 2:44pm
| Yup. When properly located there is no more than 1/8" meat left between the old hole and the new hole. Make sure your bushings on that cross shaft are tight too. I still like the idea of maybe adding a little girth to your hand lever at the gate. |
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2025 at 9:10pm
| I have brazed the shift gate slots before,but drilling an extra hole in the cross arm takes less time. You will need to put a slight bend in the threaded rod for this to work. I don't think that I have that bulletin any more. |
Posted By: Ky.Allis
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2025 at 9:43am
| I measured mine this morning and the new hole is 1" forward of the original hole. May not be correct, but it has worked perfect for 45+ years. You would think that increasing the stroke on the high side would lessen the stroke on the low side. I don't know, but it works on mine. |
Posted By: dnel45
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2025 at 9:51am
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Thanks for checking it out. I think we will go the route of a new hole. Does it look like the rod had to be bent forward a bit to get around the hydraulic bracket?
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2025 at 10:09am
| I usually always trimmed the bracket a bit and then see if the rod needs tweaking. |
Posted By: Ky.Allis
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2025 at 12:53pm
| Yes, the rod is bent forward at the bottom maybe 15-20 deg. to reach the new hole location. Not sure if the rod was straight originally, it may have had a slight bend from the factory. I don't think the bracket was trimmed any on mine, just tweaked the rod. |