d17 1 clutch and brake shaft replacement
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=205719
Printed Date: 13 Mar 2025 at 1:21am
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Topic: d17 1 clutch and brake shaft replacement
Posted By: HudCo
Subject: d17 1 clutch and brake shaft replacement
Date Posted: 03 Mar 2025 at 9:44pm
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working on my d 17 and irealy need to replace or biuld up the clutch shaft and brake shaft . what needs to be done to remove those two shafts ? i will be inside replaceing some seals and pto powerdirector orings. i will have bore and rebush all my pedals
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Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2025 at 8:04am
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Foot clutch pedal shaft can be pulled from the housing by welding a 5/8" nut on top of it and using a pipe/threaded rod to pull it or a big slide hammer. Grind off the nut, build up the shaft and machine back to size and drive back in the housing. This can be done without splitting the tractor with another extra step or two.
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Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2025 at 8:13am
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does it pull from the inside or from the outside ? does the shaft have any taper to wedge in to the housing
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2025 at 9:45am
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Pulls out. Straight shaft. Press fit into the side of the torque housing. If the tractor is split, you can drive it out from the inside with a 4 lb hammer and BIG punch.
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Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2025 at 8:34pm
I just finished my D14 clutch pedal project today. If your referring to the shaft that the pedal rotates on I ordered 2 bushings from DJS, took it to the machine shop to have the pedal bored to fit the bushings. Also did the same thing where the clutch rod attaches. Added a grease fitting mid ways in the clutch pedal, so now it rotates on the shaft with greased bushings. Tightened it up nicely and now it springs back like it’s supposed to. Brake pedals could be done the same way and I may still do that to prevent shaft and pedal wear at rotation points.
Now that I think about it I replaced those on my D17 a few years ago. D14 must not have come with the bushings originally, it’s a 59’. You may want to replace the bushings first to see if that helps, they are designed to be the wear point instead of the shaft and pedal.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2025 at 10:13pm
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my shaft is wore real bad i am going to pull it and replace it . i have apeice of 4140 for anouther job i will cut apiece off and cut a new snap ring groove i have aparts tractor that maybe a new enough to allready have replace able bushings if not i will bore this one and bush it . thanks for all the tech everyone
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Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2025 at 10:16pm
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Do you have to take running board completely off or can you just loosen it to sneak pedal out. Robbie I assume the way your describing it your not pulling pin.
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Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2025 at 10:26am
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i have doctored up alot of pins like that and its time consuming weldind grinding and you can get it pretty good but its never going to last as long. yes you have to take the running bourd off my old pedal and shaft was so wore it i probley could have wedged it past but need to straighten the running board because it had a step bolted on it and its bent a little , my grandfather put it on when i was young he wasant a big guy and real short , i didnt get the step it was missing when i got the tractor back . i am going to fab anouther step but i am going to make brackets to go all the way back to the strap that holds the running board up and spread the weight
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Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2025 at 6:39pm
Mike on my D14 I did not have to remove the running board. Simply removed the Carter key from the clutch rod, remove the clip and washer from the pedal shaft and it came right off. I’m thinking the same on my D17. The grease fitting worked like a charm, now the shaft and bushings should never wear out, heck it lasted 66 years as is but it is a low hour tractor going by pedal and running boards. Still has one original rear tire.
I did not have to replace the shaft, the bushings fit great on the shaft, the wear was in the pedal luckily.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2025 at 7:02pm
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this tractor of mine turned over the hour meter twice that i know of
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Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2025 at 7:05pm
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I would caution against removing the clutch pedal pivot pin from the outside. The backside of the pin is bored out to hold the spring and detent ball for the PTO shifter. If the pin is removed, the ball will drop to the bottom of the housing with no way of holding it back in place. You could try with a lot of wheel bearing grease, but I not confident it would work.
I always split the tractor to replace that pin. Also definitely replace the PTO shifter o-ring while it is apart!
A&W Tractor carries the 228627 pivot pin for $60 and the 235082 bushings for $2.50ea (need 2) https://awtractor.com/product/clutch-pedal-pivot-shaft-228627/" rel="nofollow - https://awtractor.com/product/clutch-pedal-pivot-shaft-228627/
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www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2025 at 8:33pm
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Remove the side cover on the right side and get a magnet in there to catch the ball. Measure the clutch pedal pivot shafts EXACT protrusion from the side of the torque housing to place the repaired or new shaft at the same depth. Whatever you use (new shaft or repaired shaft) drill the hole for the spring and ball all the way thru the pin to the outside. Measure the spring pockets depth first, so you know how deep it was. Make a plan as to what size of drill bit to use, as you'll need to thread the end of the shaft to loctite a short bolt or pipe plug in the end when you get done. I think the hole is 3/8" diameter. Once the shaft is pressed back in the side of the torque housing at the proper depth, you place the ball and then the spring into the shafts outside hole. Make a pin (3/8"bolt shank) to press against the spring and install your pipe plug or short bolt from then outside. Getting the pin length correct might take you a time or two to get the correct tension on the spring to hold the PTO lever engaged and disengaged.
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Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 12:01pm
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good info to know will get back to it the next couple days, i do have to replace the pto lever o ring that is a bad leak. i did gather up some things to pull the pin with a piece of pipe a couple of nuts one to weld to the end of the shaft and and one to pull with. fine thread all thread
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