Model D tandem axle bearing
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=204540
Printed Date: 25 Dec 2024 at 12:51am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Model D tandem axle bearing
Posted By: newbe2
Subject: Model D tandem axle bearing
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2024 at 10:00pm
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Here I go, again. The on going Model D problems. I had to replace a tire on the tandem drive axle, not a big deal, until I discovered the chain drives were in the bottom of the housing and the drive axle bearing was completely destroyed. The axle and drive sprocket appears to be ok so replacing the bearing and repairing the chains should fix the problem, except. Where would I find the new bearing? the parts manual on pages 128-129 show a part number 054073 for the bearing and 054295 for the seal. I assumed by putting a 70 in front of the number I would have the right part number, but. I cannot find the actual specification of the bearing and seal to make sure they are talking apples and not watermelons. I did find a web-site that indicated the 70054295 seal had an ID of 2.312" and OD of 3.256", which does not match the 2" shaft diameter and the 3.5" hub diameter so I'm thinking that maybe the 70054295 is not the right seal and maybe the 70054073 bearing is wrong also. 2nd problem. The axle pulled out leaving what was left of the bearing in the housing. what keeps the axle in place? Is it just kept in by the snap ring locking the bearing in place? Please point me in the right direction. Now that I have the D17 engine I want to see this old relic work. Much thanks
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Replies:
Posted By: Wes(Va)
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2024 at 10:44pm
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There should be numbers stamped on the bearings, and a good parts person should be able to get what you need. I went through the final drive a few years ago, think I may have the numbers somewhere. How many teeth are your sprockets? |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2024 at 9:17am
https://www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/AC_GRADER_D_PARTS.pdf
  ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2024 at 9:26am
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i cross ref these numbers to TIMKEN and they still dont match the dimensions you give... more like 2.5 inch ID and 4.25 OD..........?? ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2024 at 9:45am
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AC uses standard bearing numbers and parts interchange across industry . So getting the sizes or shafts , bore , and other numbers should interchange at most bearing suppliers . IH ad some other companies had bearings made to their own sizing so they were the only source - AC didn't ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: newbe2
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2024 at 7:42pm
| Thanks everyone for. the help. I removed the race from the housing and it had the part number MRC210S, and found that at Tri-State-Bearing. Still looking for the seal and now I also need the bushing 7005497. Both are listed on several sites, but without price or availability. Progress, one step at a time. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2024 at 8:39pm
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wonder why both parts books are WRONG ?? Maybe there was a change over the years ? ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: newbe2
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2024 at 9:45am
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Steve, the parts book numbers are correct for the bearing 054073 became 70054073 in the 1960s. The 70054073 and MRC210s are identical. I assumed the seal would be the same way though the size I measure does not match the specification of the 70054295 seal. I ordered it anyway thinking my measurements are wrong. Now I am looking for the bushing 70054297. I found several sites that list it, but they are out of stock or back ordered. If I can't obtain it online maybe I can find a machine shop that can make one. |
Posted By: DonBC
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2024 at 1:07pm
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That brings back many memories. When I got my D Grader one of the chains from the chain box was in the cab. As a mechanical engineer i like to analyze and realized that all four wheels are locked together. No differential between left and right. The four tires were all mismatched which would mean the tires were always fighting against each other causing excessive wear on the chains. All new costly matching tires and two new chains for one side and I was now good to go. Used that grader for years and all sorts of and never had a problem again. ------------- Jack of all trades, master of none |
Posted By: newbe2
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2024 at 6:56pm
| Thanks for the encouragement DonBC. For my on going project the two chains were in the bottom of the tandem housing; the axle bearing was totally destroyed and. The bolt heads that secure the axle hub and plate were either sheared off or someone ground them off in either case it caused the tandem housing to tilt maybe causing the chains to break and wiping out the bearing. Just more fun and education |
Posted By: DonBC
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2024 at 4:45pm
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I had one more serious problem with one of the drive wheels caused by a flaw in manufacturing. One drive wheel was loose on the shaft. The nut was tight against the washer and the boss on the axle but the wheel was still loose. Years of use damaged the tapered hole in the wheel and the key and keyway on the wheel. I had to take the wheel to a expert machinist who machined a proper taper and keyway. He also had to make a special key that matched the keyway on one side and the new keyway on the wheel. The wheel was now tight on the axle but the wheel was now about 1/2" closer to the chain box. ------------- Jack of all trades, master of none |
Posted By: newbe2
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2024 at 6:44pm
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what a pain in the rear axle. I ordered the bushing , the bearing and seal and the roller chain repair parts so all should be good to go. I checked the right side tandem and all looks good. I might just be on my to actually putting th engine in and grading my road.
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