D12 -- no spark
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=204076
Printed Date: 14 Nov 2024 at 12:25am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D12 -- no spark
Posted By: 54f250
Subject: D12 -- no spark
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2024 at 7:17pm
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I bought a D12 at auction. The prior owner said it was running when he parked it in the barn -- many years ago. I am trying to get it running but I cannot get spark. I have replaced the ignition switch, coil, and condenser -- still no spark. The engine turns over just fine. Any ideas of where I need to look next?
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Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2024 at 7:29pm
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the face of the POINT in the distributor is probably corroded ( thin layer)....use a VERY FINE piece of sand paper and drag between the faces to take if off... Spray with contact clean if you got it to finish.. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2024 at 8:53pm
| Check to make sure that you don't have a wire grounding out inside the distributor. The wire that connects the condensor to the points is very easy to have it making contact with the distributor housing. |
Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2024 at 9:09pm
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Is it an early Model 6 volt, or later Model Ser. II 12 volt ? Is the Starter Solenoid on the ignition Switch, or a Push Button ? Have you tested that you have Power to the Points with the Switch ON ? G |
Posted By: captaindana
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2024 at 5:11am
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I prob turn on ignition take screw driver and wiggle between points and you need to see sparks ------------- Blue Skies and Tail Winds Dana |
Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2024 at 7:14am
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Take off the distributor cap, and have someone watch while you crank over the engine, It possible the distributor is not turning. ------------- I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2024 at 7:39am
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These are all good suggestions, but there are many possible causes. We need to know more. First, how have you verified there is no spark? Is it because it doesn't try to start? Have you grounded a spark plug and verified there is no spark at the plugs? Have you checked to make sure you have voltage at the coil? If yes, do you have voltage to the points. Have you checked the coil wire (wire going from the top of the coil to the top middle of the distributor)? As Lars said, are you sure the rotor is turning when you turn the tractor over? We need all the information you can give us to make intelligent recommendations.
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Posted By: 54f250
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2024 at 1:22pm
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I want to thank everyone who shared their experience and knowledge on this issue. My tractor is a 12 volt 1960 (2454). After Steve suggested cleaning the points I took a points file and cleaned them. In short order I had spark. I put the gas tank back on and cleaned and connected the gas line. It starts and idles just fine. I can not get it to run at higher RPM -- it sputters with a moderate surge. I know I can adjust the idle jet but I don't know how to adjust for higher RPM. Thanks again for the help provided by this forum. I truly appreciate it. jim
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2024 at 1:35pm
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if it has been setting for some time, the main jet might be plugged somewhat and restricting gas flow to reach high rpm... you see th IDLE screw... there should be another screw to adjust the higher rpm flow....maybe on the front of the carb.. normally the screw is bottomed down, then backed out 1.5 turns to start and adjusted from there.. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: 54f250
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2024 at 6:12pm
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I will work on it again tomorrow. I removed the carb some months ago. I soaked it in carb cleaner for a few days and put a new kit in it. I got almost no response from either the idle jet or the load jet. I found that if I give it about half choke, I can give it full throttle very smoothly. If anything, the engine RPM is too high. I know I need to work on the carb -- I just don't quite know where to start. The other problem I have now that it is running is leaks. One step at a time. Thanks again, jim
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2024 at 7:23pm
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choke half on cuts the air flow in half... thats because the main jet or passage way is half plugged and cant flow enough gas... use a small wire or torch tip cleaner to run thru the passage ways when you take the jets out to clean the bowl. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2024 at 4:40am
Don't forget the choke shaft air seals, if they're gone, you need to compensate, by adjusting the choke position to compensate... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |