Ignition issue on AC 1935 WC sn 8821
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=203743
Printed Date: 22 Nov 2024 at 12:27pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Ignition issue on AC 1935 WC sn 8821
Posted By: Mark.Kuehn
Subject: Ignition issue on AC 1935 WC sn 8821
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2024 at 1:22pm
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I recently acquired my WC after my older brother passed. The tractor was restored about 15 years ago by the local FFA chapter (my brother actually won it on a raffle). He drove it in a parade or two before shed storing in 2015 (ish). I've cleaned the fuel tank, replaced the fuel filter, fuel line, and carburetor, along with using new premium gasoline. However, I cannot get any ignition of the fuel. I sprayed a little starting fluid into the intake manifold, and I get "no joy". I assume the issue is with the magneto, condenser, points, or distributor. I'd very much appreciate some guidance on where to start "exploring". Also, I've attached a picture of the mag side of the tractor. Notice the "hole" to the left of the oil fill. According to my parts book, the piece with the hole in it is the magneto bracket. Is there supposed to be anything in that "hole"? Thanks in advance -Mark 
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Replies:
Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2024 at 5:48pm
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I suspect the points need cleaning in the magneto. That would be the first thing I would try. They get a little corrosion on them from sitting a long time. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2024 at 6:14pm
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yep... the black cover needs to come off the mag.... clean the point contacts, an put it back together... Read up a little bit first... The cover needs to go back on with the two little gears TIMED RIGHT inside.. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2024 at 6:19pm
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watch this movie starting about the 17 minute mark... She does a good job on the assembly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fmnP700qXc&t=22s" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fmnP700qXc&t=22s ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2024 at 6:48pm
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As mentioned, sitting that long the points have oxidation on them. Some TV tuner cleaner or Brakekleen on a rag, and run the rag through the points a couple times. The ole' girl will probably fire right up once back in time correctly.. Steve@B&B ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2024 at 10:31pm
| The hole is normal.... |
Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2024 at 11:28am
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So far anyone who seen the question about the hole HAS never replaced a seal in the housing . There is also a opening in the bottom of housing . I have replace many of these seals over the years . Once you static time your mag ,moving it around is not a good idea. It's not a dist. .   ------------- He who dies with the most toys is, nonetheless ,still dead. If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED. |
Posted By: Mark.Kuehn
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 3:35pm
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With a fair amount of messing around - I got the magento points cleaned, magento timed internally (it was one or two teeth off), the distributor timed to the fly wheel fire position, new plugs, new fuel filter, new fuel line, a rebuilt carburetor, AND it runs! 1935 WC running again after 12+ years! What is the copper tab off the side of the magneto for? The carb was originally a Zenith 124 1/2. The replacement is a Zenith 161. The air intake on the 161 is smaller than the 124 1/2. What have others done to hook the air intake to the filter? I cannot find a tapered black hose line.
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 3:42pm
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the copper tab is the KILL switch.. If you push it and touch the mag case, it shorts out the spark and engine dies............ Magnitos should be timed to TDC , top dead center so it will START easy... after the engine starts, the MAG will advance to the FIRE mark.. You can see that if you have a strobe light. For the hose... you can wrap a few layers of duct tape on the tube and build it up to the correct size for the hose to slide over. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Mark.Kuehn
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 5:10pm
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So, the manual is incorrect? It said to time to the mark with the stamped F (fire) on the flywheel. TDC has a mark on the flywheel, but no letter, correct? What do you mean the magneto will advance it to the Fire? Do I need to adjust it to make this happen? This could be nice, because the way I currently have it timed it is a bear to start. Sorry for all the questions.
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 6:18pm
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when you crank it by hand to set the timing, you hear a SNAP when the plug fires.. That is the IMPULSE winding up, then SNAPPING off the stops... So there is a delay of maybe 30 degrees to fire the plug... That allows EASY starting at TDC.. Once the engine starts, the two small spring loaded weights in the IMPULSE fly out and dont allow the WIND UP of the spring.. So it fires at the FIRE MARK... This is not a variable setting.. At ZERO- 100 rpm ( cranking) the engine fires at TDC... Once it lites off and your over 3-400 RPM, the weights fly out and you go to 30 DEGREES or the FIRE mark..
yes... an engine will be very hard to start at 30 degrees advance.... i dont know what your book says... but this is how a MAG works.. you can check you TDC mark by removing the spark plugs and slowly rotating by hand until the FRONT PISTON comes up to TDC...... I have an old hollow spark plug with a 1/4 plastic tube glued to it that i screw into #1 and put the tube in my mouth.. ROtate the engine and FEEL the air coming out as the piston goes UP,, when you feel the air, you rotate a little less than 180 degrees and the air STOPS.. You can also stick a coat hanger in the plug hole to FEEL when you are at the top... and verify the mark on the crank.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 6:27pm
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if your pressed for time........... skip to the 7:20 mark and watch..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0nIOLFOd0c" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0nIOLFOd0c ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Mark.Kuehn
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2024 at 5:35am
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THANK YOU!!! This is what I needed. -Mark
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2024 at 9:21am
I use a similar technique by removing the gauge from my compression tester and installing a toy balloon over the fitting; when you approach TDC the balloon inflates, and immediately deflates when passing TDC. If you rock the crankshaft back and forth you can get very close to TDC.
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steve(ill) wrote:Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2024 at 7:15am
 Les- I love that idea! I'm gonna gather a variety of old spark plugs and weld on tubes... but I'm gonna make em big enough to fit Trojans!  ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2024 at 7:36am
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Perhaps the finger off a latex glove would suffice. |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2024 at 8:49am
I stole that idea from my Bro-in-law who owns a motorhome equipped with an Onan generator; there is no way to see the timing marks without pulling the entire unit but the balloon trick solves the problem.
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Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2024 at 11:48am
So is that a tell tale sign if your screwed or not? 
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