Won’t stay running…
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=203400
Printed Date: 22 Nov 2024 at 10:14pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Won’t stay running…
Posted By: Old School AC
Subject: Won’t stay running…
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2024 at 8:38pm
| I have an old d15, I believe it’s a 1962. The positive battery post touched and grounded the engine out…burnt the ground post off. I replaced battery end but now tractor won’t stay running. Runs for 1-2 minutes then shuts off. Any suggestions???? |
Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2024 at 9:00pm
|
well with a shorted out battery cable, its probably not a fuel problem.. Electrical area... Coil , capacitor, starter key/ switch, wires...... When it dies, see if you have 12v at the COIL... if you do, then the battery / switch / key / wires are probably working right... 12v power to the coil , then check the FIRE at a spark plug.. If no SPARK, then you have a coil or capacitor or burn point problem... If you have NO POWER to the coil, then look at the key switch and the wire from the key to the coil. --------One test is to take a jumper wire from the battery to the + terminal on the coil and then start the tractor.. That bypasses the key and wire harness to guarantee you have POWER to the coil.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2024 at 9:59pm
| A model D-15 gas with a generator is a POSITIVE ground. So, how can the ground short out ?? Or, do you have an alternator conversion and now it is a NEGATIVE ground ?? |
Posted By: Old School AC
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2024 at 9:16am
| Yes it runs on gas. I have an alternator with a separate Solenoid. The solenoid positive end touched the frame and the negative end melted from the battery. Yeah, yeah |
Posted By: Old School AC
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2024 at 9:23am
| Thanks Steve, I will try it this morning to see what happens. I’ll reach back out. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2024 at 12:46pm
|
once you get it going, you might find out the alternator has a problem... Solid state parts inside do NOT like shorts or sparks..... hope for the best. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Old School AC
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2024 at 11:09pm
Can’t get it to run correctly. I don’t know if coil, points, or carburetor is needed. I have no idea. 
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2024 at 6:27am
| Original complaint was it only runs for 1 to 2 minutes and quits. Now, the complaint is you "can't get it to run correctly". So does it now run all the time?? just not running smoothly?? or does it still quit every 1 to 2 minutes. Shouldn't be the carb because there wasn't any problem prior to the electrical meltdown, correct ??? |
Posted By: Old School AC
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2024 at 8:30am
| I changed the coil yesterday because while running a few minutes with the choke almost fully engaged coil was so hot, you couldn’t touch it with you bare hand. It will run for a few minutes with choke engaged but will sputter then die out. I did open the carburetor to clean it. Points, plugs, wires, starter solenoid, little white element that connects to coil? I don’t know which way to go. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2024 at 8:35am
that "littlel white element" that connects to the coil is not needed. That is a RESISTOR that lets you use a 6 v coil on a 12v tractor... Make sure your COIL says "12v with internal 3 ohm resistor", and then throw that little white thing away !
 ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: jvin248
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2024 at 9:20am
|
. Overheating coil indicates replacement is needed. If a coil you get (scrounged from old bin) is poorly marked, you can use an ohm meter to measure the coil. 3ohm has the resistor block inside, low ohm has none and use the block. External resistor block just like the external regulator cubes (instead of inside the alternator) just creates more connections to corrode over time. If stuff got cooked, be sure and investigate wire runs and bundles. I just replaced generator wires on my WD since the insulation in a spot was so sketchy and the wires fragile. Then I found the main bundle was sketchy too and more wires. All running again though. .
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Posted By: Old School AC
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2024 at 8:12pm
| Do you think that I should change the points? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2024 at 8:40pm
| Back in their day, points replacement was an every 500 hrs maintenance item. The quality of today's points/condenser parts isn't good. I normally wouldn't replace the condenser if the tractor was running OK. Not sure you have a choice. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2024 at 8:56pm
|
why are you looking at the point ? Did you get a 12v coil ? Did you eliminate the old ignition resistor for 6V coil ? First if would not run.. then you put " an old coil" and it will run for a few minutes, but not very good.... ???? ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Old School AC
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2024 at 10:09pm
| I put a new coil and new resistor (that square thing). Still won’t stay running. Maybe the carb is not good?!?! I did disassemble and clean it. Seems to be a very simple carb. I just don’t know. I’m just trying things for myself with me knowing that I’m not a mechanic. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2024 at 10:26pm
|
Is the NEW COIL a 6v or 12 V ??? You DONT NEED THE WHITE THING (resistor) with a GOOD 12v coil.... take the resistor out and run the POWER WIRE straight to the coil + terminal..
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |