The neck of the black plastic gas tank on my Polaris ATV has cracked along one of the threads and cap is a little loose. What are other's best attempts using some type of super glue or ,,,,????

Crazy Glue (aka Cyanoacrlate (sp) ) is NOT waterproof.

Determine WHAT kind of 'plastic' the tank's made from. Maybe HDPE ?

Should be on the tank in a triangle, or check MFR's website ?

Get a glue specifically DESIGNED for that plastic !!

   UMMmmm,,now,,,,why did I not think bout using that,,,?? Something else would of been some of that glue (that I did buy some just last week) for the water distributor on my swamp cooler had a tube come loose and the glue Kit was special for that black plastic tubes,,,,??

  Many THANKS Im4Racin,,,,

Epoxy Putty Stick, whatever brand of your choosing = they are all pretty much the same = will look and act like it is there until Kingdom Come --- for a couple weeks; and, then, the Epoxy will yield it's hold and either fall off or just sit there loose, depending on what kind of "mechanical" connection it has.

No commonly available - read "affordable"  - adhesive or sealant will adhere; it may look and act like it has stuck, but in short time will come loose.

Depending on the break/crack, get yourself one of those $20 plastic welding hot staple guns like that hot Chickanic lady has a video all about = best $20 I ever spent.

The one I got paid for itself six-times-over the very first thing I repaired with it.

What it amounts to is a two-prong soldering gun with the looped soldering tip replaced with little steel staples of various shapes.

There are a gazillion different kits on Amazon and most come with a lifetime supply of assorted staples.

You select a staple, put the prongs in the gun tips, hold down the trigger for a second until the staple gets HOT, keep the trigger pressed while you melt the HOT staple down into the plastic.

When the staple is buried in the plastic, keep holding it there while you release the trigger and let the staple cool; if you get in a hurry and don't allow the staple to cool in place, it will just pull out when you move the gun.

Do this many many times along all breaks and cracks, being careful not to push the HOT staples all the way through; you want them at varying depths, but not through.   

Once you get everything sewn together with the staples, then follow up by welding the seams, either with a soldering iron, a wood-burning tool, or one of the many specific plastic welding tools.

I have read that zip-tie cut-offs make good "welding rods" for fuel tank plastic.

A wood-burning tool is probably best for welding plastic; as, they come with a whole assortment of various tips; one from Harbor Freight is plenty sufficient for the task.

re: cracked along one of the threads and cap is a little loose.

gee, now I'm thinking if you use any glue, you'll never get that cap back off !

OK, option 63.... cut and glue a 'sleeve of plastic' inside the neck.

Almost any glue will work as not much if any gas up there

Sleeve acts to mechanically strengthen the neck

Sleeve is a shield,prevents gas from dripping out

Possible 'sleeve' could be PVC water pipe, ABS pipe, 2" central vacuum piping,some kids toy ?

And the prize goes to....  

Fantastic idea, safer than risking a stuck cap!