hd6g struggles to turn over
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=202945
Printed Date: 22 Nov 2024 at 11:13pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: hd6g struggles to turn over
Posted By: thestephenson
Subject: hd6g struggles to turn over
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2024 at 10:20am
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hey guys, i have an old hd6g that hasnt run since 2011. I hooked 2 twelve volt battries in series and it turned over very slowly, like it barely got past each compression stroke and the solenoid kept sputtering. the starter seemed to be pulling a lot of amps to. i tried a single twelve volt battery which yielded the same results. still barely turning over. My Grandpa who owned it before he passed away kept cans over the exaust and side panels on the engine compartment , and the engine is in good condition so i dont think is is seized. Any suggestions and help would be appreciated -thanks
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Replies:
Posted By: gemdozer
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2024 at 10:49am
| These old HD6 are 24 volts and make sure your batteries are connect correctly for 24volts and you could removed the soneloil and clean the brace button it could help. |
Posted By: DonBC
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2024 at 4:10pm
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A bad bearing on the starter can cause a similar problem. ------------- Jack of all trades, master of none |
Posted By: thestephenson
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2024 at 4:48pm
| I already cleaned out the solenoid and all electrical contacts, I appreceate the advice and I will take it apart and double check my work. I will also check the push button for pitting and corrosion. the thing is, the solenoid activates the starter and it makes the engine turn over but it seems to struggle, barely turns over and pulls alot of amps. the starter seems to spin fine when i jump straight to the motor. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 4:34am
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Check your wiring and ends for corrosion... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 5:11am
| You want Two 12v Batteries in Series not Parallel. 24v Pos Ground. |
Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 5:12am
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I'd ensure you can bar the engine over by hand before too much more effort is expended. Disengage the main clutch, ensure the transmission is in neutral, and either get into the flywheel teeth with a bar, or onto the crankshaft snout bolt with a large socket and ratchet and see if the engine will rotate fairly easy till it comes up on compression. Engines setting that long can have rusty cylinder walls and kind of hard to crank an engine through this. If the engine is still difficult to turn by hand, remove the injectors and spray a lubricant into the cylinders allowing it to dwell for a bit. Then engage the starter motor to allow the engine to crank. If rust is the case the engine may crank slow to start and then really take off spinning once the rust is lubricated and/or scrubbed clean. That engine will have a "PSB" fuel injection pump and you don't want to monkey with it too much. If the hydraulic head is frozen you are in for a real treat getting it repaired as parts are long obsolete. You will know if this is applicable if you cannot get it to pump high pressure fuel to the injectors. ------------- That's All Folks! |
Posted By: doctorcorey
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 7:50am
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Curious as to what you mean by 'pulling a lot of amps'. Are you judging this by the arc it throws when you jump across the solenoid? If the starter turns over good when you bypass the solenoid, then it's a solenoid problem, period. Do the cables get hot, or 'jump' when you engage the starter? That is the best indication of a shot starter that is partially shorted or has wasted bearings. On lubrication of cyls. with all the sitting time, the intake plenum is easy to remove and a handy place to add some lubricant to the cylinders. Pull the pan plug and check for water accumulation, and drain all the fuel out of the filters/fuel pump circuit. You don't want any 'black diesel' reaching that precious injector pump. As others have mentioned, turn the engine over with a bar several turns to make sure there are no hard spots that might damage piston rings. Once it gets oiled, it will hone itself out. If the fuel you drain from the filters/tank is really dark, the filters then go in the dumpster and ALL the fuel gets drained for use burning tree stumps or cleaning parts. Good luck. ------------- Semper Fi USMC 1958 HD6G, 1959 MF 203 loader, 1960 Case 420B Backhoe, MF 65 Tractor/Loader Diesel |
Posted By: DonBC
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 6:34pm
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The clearance between the windings and the armature is not that great and any slight bearing wear can cause the armature to pull to one side and drag on the armature windings when power is applied. I had this happen to me one time and messed with for ages before I found the problem. The wear only seems to wear on one side. ------------- Jack of all trades, master of none |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2024 at 8:11am
I too am curious; are you measuring with an ammeter or just guessing? The first thing I would do is run a voltage drop test as outlined in this thread: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/hd6g-starting-problems_topic201881.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/hd6g-starting-problems_topic201881.html
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doctorcorey wrote: