I recently extracted my childhood tractors from a barn they have sat in for the past 10 years. 

As you know, they're D17 Series III and Series IV. 

They ran and functioned perfectly when parked in 2014. 

I'd like to get them restored myself. 

I am hoping you all wonderful people can give me some guidance. 

I want them to be mechanically sound, then cosmetically nice. 

They are not running and I haven't even started anything. 

First, where should I start? 

Does anybody have a checklist or any specific guidance for me? 

I'd be happy to pay. 

I just want these done right, no matter how long it takes. 

I'm looking for: 

1) Drain the fuel by unhooking this hose, then do this
2) Clear out the ______ by ______
3) Check the ________ by pressing the ________ 
4) Buy a _________ from ________
etc. 

They don't need to win any shows, but they should be mechanically sound and cosmetically nice. 

Thanks in advance! 

If they do, check to make sure you have spark. 

If you do have spark, I would drain the old gas out of them.

When you get the gas out, check the condition of the inside of the gas tank.

Check all fluids and see if you can get them to run.

I would make sure they run, before you change fluids, but when you get it running, all fluids should be changed; engine oil, antifreeze and everything else can be changed to 821 (equivalent) hydraulic fluid .

First thing is buy there operators and parts manuals. And a IT manual has good info to.

Goodluck there great tractors

So the initial turn over is to test the engines aren't seized, right? 

I do NOT want to try to run them with existing fluids, right? 

So other than gas, if the other fluids are there I can let it run enough to know it'll fire? 

Sorry for the questions, don't want to screw these things. 

Yes, run them up to operating temperature (about 1/2hr), then change them when the fluids are warm...

Check the Dipstick on the motor prior to starting, though.  If the oil looks milky, check back in...

At some point, you have to decide how much money you are willing to invest in these tractors. You say they were your "childhood tractors", which means they have sentimental value to you. Sometimes that comes at a cost.

I have been working several years on my grandfather's WF (hence my forum "name"). It set out in a pasture for over 35 years, before I got it. I currently have over $7000 invested (I hope my wife doesn't read this!) and I am not done. When I am done, the tractor will probably realistically be worth $1500 - $2000. It will never be for sale in my lifetime. It will go to one of my grandchildren when I am gone.

Our point is that getting them running, without spending a lot of money or doing any damage to the tractors, will give you a chance to decide if you want to proceed with your plans on restoration. 

After you've gotten these Tractors up and running, and you are deciding to start disassembling them for your resto, it's always a great idea to purchase some different size zip lock lunch bags. This way, as you start removing nuts, bolts, brackets etc., as they come off the Tractor, put them in the bag that the part would fit in, zip lock it shut so nothing gets lost, and write on the bag with permanent marker what it is and put it in a box so when the time comes to reassemble, you know what goes where. Even if the bolts are rusty or broke off. You'll know come reassembly time you need to renew some of the bolts and you'll have a sample of the original. All good things take time, and if it takes a while (6 months to a year, sometimes more) depending on life in general, you'll know where things go down the road......  Good Luck!  Have fun!!

Steve@B&B

If they were really in functional shape when parked, it shouldn't take but a few weekends of tinkering and maintenance to get them running again, that is assuming you have some idea what you are doing.  Which sounds like you are just learning, so it may take a bit longer.  First step is to get manuals for the tractor, and READ them.  You will answer 90% of your questions there.  Next would be to let us know where in WI are you located?  It would be nice if you could connect up with someone in your area who knows how to go about this, and give you some pointers and help in person.  There are quite a few of us in the WI area (I am in the process of moving back myself currently).  

Take your time, and don't expect things to go smoothly or easily, that is where most people get frustrated and quit.  Getting a tractor going, let alone restoring one, is a very long and laborious process.  we're not talking days, but months or years often.  I'm not trying to scare you, we all start there, just know what you are getting into. 

I'd suggest, pick one and focus on it first.  Get it going, then you'll "know what you're doing" and the second will be twice as easy.  You won't mix up parts that way either.  And anything you take apart, photo how it was, bag and label EVERYTHING!  It may be a while until it goes back together, and the biggest lie we tell ourselves is that we will remember how it goes back together, we won't LOL! 

You got this, keep at it and keep us posted!

Will do, thank you! 

Oh man! I'm afraid to ask...is that just parts? Or did you hire out some of the labor/restoration? 

What is the most expensive part? 

It's not uncommon for a lot of condensation to have built up on the inside of the engine and transmission castings depending on where the tractor was stored. You'll definitely want to get all of that out of there eventually.

Epic, thank you! 

Awesome advice, thank you! 

I've probably got over $1500 in machine shop fees (engine rebuild, kingpins and rebushing the front axle). I had the (cracked) block professionally welded, when I could have used a different block cheaper. The rest is tires, rims and parts. 

I am just finishing up the rear end (differential). There is not one part I haven't rebuilt, even the steering box. 

I love that dedication, man! I bet it's worth it. 

This is gold; thank you so much! Epic stuff. 

Uh oh! haha thanks for the heads up. 

Thank you for the warm welcome! Hope your project is coming along how you're hoping for it to! 

I always check the fluid level and conditions before anything else.... then I attempt to turn them over by hand.  Put the transmission in neutral, and attempt to depress the clutch, take note of how it feels underfoot, as this may give you a clue as to wether the plates are rust-adhered to the flywheel.

As others noted, these things can have seals dry and leak, don't assume there's fluid IN, and next... condensate and rain can get IN, so don't assume that what's IN there... is actually what you WANT in there.  As Doc noted, coolant in the oilpan is a bad sign, but it's not end-of-the-world.

Since these tractors are members of your family, your greatest investment will be TIME.  If you throw out TIME as a cost (which you should), then it just comes down to parts and materials.  Don't predispose yourself to acquiring only new parts, and don't dismiss a component simply because it isn't 'like new'... there's plenty of circumstances where a part has degraded, but can be returned to serviceable condition without considerable difficulty or expense.

Other things:

Don't assume the exhaust isn't full of bird droppings.

Don't assume the brake/axle housings aren't full of beech nuts.

Don't assume the wiring has any insulation, and yes, there will be mouse nests... and they do ignite FAST...

Don't assume the gasoline is actually gasoline

Don't assume anything liquid will actually flow through anything tubular.

Don't assume that something that seals at room temperature under workshop conditions will also seal when the engine is running, and the transmission is working...

Don't assume that a 'brand new part' will be better than an old one (breaker points and condenser especially)

Finally...  With this being your first, get them both checked out, fired up, and running, and as operational as you can... then pick ONE to use, and the OTHER to work on.  Pick the best tires, move them to the worker... and shop the project. 

Do all your project mechanical work in SEGMENTS... one segment at-a-time. As you do it, each segment gets you closer to a well-finished machine.  There's segments and processes that will make you feel defeated at times... all the parts that you've succeeded, will bring you confidence that the BAD DAYS are winnable too.

As for tractor restorations, an old friend told me that the most suitable restoration candidate has either a good engine, or good tires... a REALLY EASY one has both.  His point was, that an engine rebuild kit-and-process is expensive... and wheels-and-tires are expensive too. They're not impossible, they're just big investments.  Fortunately, when you do 'em, they're done, and last a LONG time.

.

I would start your project by manually rotating the engines, not a battery and starter. Pull on the fan belt or turn the engine with a crank. That way you don't bend something.

Watch YouTube videos on Vice Grip Garage, like these. Derek goes through the steps you'll need, and tools that are helpful.

https://youtu.be/fhpA1uT8W28?si=IHcJNuaBa5wdd8BW" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/fhpA1uT8W28?si=IHcJNuaBa5wdd8BW

https://youtu.be/6agbWMOV9Js?si=2lqws6ZXhSLq7frn" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/6agbWMOV9Js?si=2lqws6ZXhSLq7frn

https://youtu.be/Q4W9TWrwnh0?si=MOBrZ3VDqe2yQGt9

How do you hand crank a D-17 Series 3 or 4?

Once you get spark, take the air filter hose off the carburetor and a little starting fluid in the carburetor and see if it fires.

One thing I forgot to mention. You're fortunate that you have two of the same Tractor. I would start to tear one down first. As the project and time moves on, when it comes to reassembly time, if you're not sure how something went together, you always have the other Tractor to look at. That's worth a million questions in itself. Good luck! A lot of great info here from the family!

Steve@B&B

bb-customcircuits.com

(Click to watch the video) 

https://www.loom.com/share/4600a789696a47559df70d64bfea4252" rel="nofollow -

https://www.loom.com/share/4600a789696a47559df70d64bfea4252" rel="nofollow">

Looks like there's a big smile embedded in yer' face!  Might need surgery to remove it! Enjoy your Tractors man. There's nothin' like it....... 

Steve@B&B

Thank you so much!! 

Great question...

Series III: 

I had tried turning it over and it was barely turning, I didn't want to push it. 

Mechanic found that one of the battery cables was bad, so he replaced it and it fired right up. Has been running great ever since. 

Series IV: 

First, the points needed to be shaved and reset to get spark. 

Then, the fuel lines to the carb were clogged and needed to be blown out. 

Lastly, the carburetor itself is gummed up and needs a rebuild (ordered the kit, he'll be back to do the rebuild). 

He got it running by bypassing the carburetor to narrow down that as the problem. 

Overall, it was all the things you all mentioned it would be but I just needed someone with the experience to troubleshoot it. 

I'm thrilled with all the help I've gotten on here and that they will have new life!! 

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Before you do a full carb rebuild, get a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner.

I had a Ferguson 35 that had carb problems, did a rebuild and several manual cleanings and nothing worked. So yesterday I bought the smaller unit HF sells and it fit both halves of the carb plus a little mesh box for the small parts. A few cycles and installed it back on the tractor and fixed it. Works perfect again.

So today I pulled my WD carb, since it hasn't run in a year due to a wiring repair I'm about to do on it, and am putting that in the machine for a few cycles to avoid any surprises when I get it ready to run again.

.

Series III is getting a new shine. 

I do understand this isn't a proper restoration, but for my intentions I'm happy to see it running and looking better. 

So Derrek-

When you're working with D17's, if you ever find yourself in a situation where it seems to want to start, but not run, or it cranks, but won't fire, but when you release the key, it either starts, or farts...

Put a jumper wire from the battery, direct to the ignition coil's + side, and try again.  If it starts and runs, you've got a bad ignition switch.  The cylinder wears, and START terminal wears/corrodes over time and use... eventually, when you turn the key to START, the contacts to the STARTER work, but the IGNITION contact lifts away, so you don't get spark while cranking.  Bypass the switch, and it'll work fine.

A troubleshooting technique you should learn and perfect:  Isolating ignition or fuel problems.

To check ignition for basic operation:  Disconnect the center (coil) wire at the distributor.

Place it about a quarter-inch from the engine block, and turn the key, watch that gap- you SHOULD see a SNAP SNAP SNAP as the engine cranks.  IF it doesn't snap, you have either a keyswitch, wiring, ignition points, or condenser problem.  Connecting a voltmeter or test light between the coil + post and ground should indicate battery voltage with ignition on.  When cranking, you'll see this vary as the engine rotates (the points are opening and closing).

If you have a good solid snap, but no start, reconnect the wiring, and shoot a shot of something flammable into the carbeurator, then crank.  If it pops, or tries to start, you have a fuel problem.

D17 ignition system consists of contact points operated by a lobe on the distributor body.  The most COMMON ignition problem of the D17, is wear of the distributor's shaft bushings, and when they wear, the breaker point cam doesn't operate the contact points so well... you get dropped cylinders/missing etc, and general naughty behaviour.  Best way to immediately resolve this, is to have a spare rebuilt distributor, particularly one with a Pertronix Ignitor electronic conversion in it.  Get with NJ Steve, he can probably get you one for your ready shelf.  When you go to tear down one for a resto, send your old one in for a thorough rehab.

Old battery cables suck.  They suck water in, via capillary action... and you wind up with all those fine copper threads turning into pretty blue-green fuzz that doesn't carry electricity worth $#!t... so they crank slow, don't fire plugs, and are a general nuisance.  When you do your resto, investo in a starter rebuild, new cables, and a new wiring harness, it'll be so much happier.