Engine Cleanup - opinions
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=202461
Printed Date: 23 Nov 2024 at 4:51pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Engine Cleanup - opinions
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Subject: Engine Cleanup - opinions
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2024 at 9:11am
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Working on D14 project that sat around for many years. Engine always started and ran Ok but when I drained old oil, I noticed a lot of waxy lumps dropped out. I dropped oil pan and basically deposits all over in there. Probably never ran long enough over the years to burn out moisture. I pulled head and one piston, all looks good except for those crappy deposits on everything. Plan to clean up everything I can see without further disassembly. Will lap valves a bit but they look fine. Probably just pop the piston back in and not touch anything on lower end or front gear cover. I have a little JD diesel now and was planning to start using conventional diesel oil 15W40. Some say it is good for old tractor engines. I don't have a good way to load engine but may just let it run a long time this summer to make sure to get oil warmed good, then drain that oil right away. Old Norm used to say run a bush hog to load em up good but I don't have anything suitable. If anyone has opinions, suggestions let me know. Thank you. ------------- 1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless |
Replies:
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2024 at 10:12am
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Here’s one of my previous post about removing engine oil sludge from a vehicle’s engine. As for your tractor ~ synthetic blend oil / conventional oil recipe would probably help with frequent oil change intervals(OCI)? Obviously, good lengthy durations of engine operation should benefit it too. Maybe start by checking D14’s breather apparatus (blow-by tube from its valve cover?). Make sure it’s open & able to function. Seen mud dauber wasps built mud nests in tube, clog it shut, & engine quits breathing. Kinda similar to vehicle engines where their PCV (positive crankcase ventilation)for breathing fails. Too lengthy of OCI could cause PCV failure & then sludge begins. https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/conv-synthetic-blend-recipe_topic200515.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/conv-synthetic-blend-recipe_topic200515.html |
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2024 at 10:27am
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I had been buying conventional diesel oil, there are a few still out there. Was a little leery of synthetic with the old seals and filters. The D14 is a simple breather cap. I saw the manual suggested cleaning it every 8 hours, daily LOL. I will try to clean it good. I noted the Baldwin filter still looks to be old type fiber element. I think that is all you can get that fit the fruit jar thread base used on the old ACs. ------------- 1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2024 at 12:07pm
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That’s the beauty of an oil recipe. Use same viscosity in all oils. Try SOME synthetic blend(1-2qts?, 3qts?) mixed with conventional oi(1-2qts?, or whatever?). While D14’s oil pan is off, check/clean oil sump. If it’s got a screen, inspect/clean it. If it doesn’t contain a screen, consider installing one to help catch sludge. Every OCI drop oil pan & inspect/clean for sludge/debris. Synthetic blend helps “wash” engine. When engine is running, try to catch condensation(H2O) emissions from breather to understand what’s happening. Compare levels as OCI progress. If possible use a longer oil filter for increased capacity? |
Posted By: JoeM(GA)
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2024 at 1:04pm
there's still a good choice of the old style filters, here's a few popular ones Oil Filter AGCO - (70)240912 Wix - 57011 NAPA - 7011 Fleetguard - LF571 Fram - C159 Baldwin - T300M Carquest - 84011 ------------- Allis Express North Georgia 41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB |
Rick of HopeIN wrote:Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2024 at 1:20pm
Keep an eye on coolant temp gauge to keep needle out of red zone. Recommend using an Infared Thermometer with laser targeting to know engine temps during load cycles. Laser can pinpoint different areas of radiator hoses, front of head, back of head, etc so you can know extremes. Any type of pto equipment that can be added during radiator covering load would help increase load. Or if no pto equipment, then drive it around in higher gears and up hills(grades). Assumed you’ve already checked that coolant isn’t leaking into oil?? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KoT-PWg8Ahs&pp=QAFIAg%3D%3D" rel="nofollow - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KoT-PWg8Ahs&pp=QAFIAg%3D%3D |
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2024 at 10:49am
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yeah good point, while I have pan off I will add coolant and check for obvious leaks before I button back up. ------------- 1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2024 at 10:57am
From your reply, I think you’re talking engine air intake filter? If so, I think D14 uses an oil bath filter for that? If so, then yes, it should be serviced every 8 hrs in dusty conditions. |