The last bolt
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=201743
Printed Date: 23 Nov 2024 at 2:50am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: The last bolt
Posted By: Dozer987
Subject: The last bolt
Date Posted: 11 Jun 2024 at 10:48am
 I repaired the left steering clutch on my HD6E. I removed all bolts but one on the right side. It is the long bolt on the throughout side. It is rusted smaller than the 3/4 hex. I tried the box wrenches that are supposed to be for undersized bolt heads but they make the situation worse because the work only on half of the hex. If you use the box wrench upside down relative to the turning direction the cam shears off the tips of the hex. Suggestions please |
Replies:
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 11 Jun 2024 at 10:55am
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rotate to top of unit , use a socket (cheap impact type) one size smaller and use Dremel tool and grind it to fit the bolt head inside . Or try grinding down head of bolt to fit 11/16 socket ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 11 Jun 2024 at 11:41am
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or a metric socket. get best fit possible with 6 point socket dont use 12 point. ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: Dozer987
Date Posted: 12 Jun 2024 at 5:33pm
 There is not enough space to alter the bolt head I wonder if I could heat the clutch hub. There is such a large mass of metal. There is little access to the hub between the flange and the drum. Please help |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 12 Jun 2024 at 6:53pm
I don't think that heating the hub will help; heating the bolt itself is what I would try. But first, I would take the biggest vicegrips that will fit in the gap, adjust them to as tight as you dare, have a large piece of pipe ready to use on the vicegrips as a cheater, THEN heat the bolt head (not the vicegrips) clamp the vicegrips on the bolt and use the cheater pipe if necessary. If that fails, cut the bolt head off by whatever means available, if a large sidehead grinder disc will reach the bolt head I would use it. Otherwise, I would use a hacksaw blade set to cut on the pull stroke. I would be afraid to use a cutting torch. Once the head is cut off you will need to pry the hub apart enough to reach in with the hacksaw blade and cut the bolt. I have a little hacksaw holder that allows this type of operation; it is quite tedious, but I have done similar things on other machinery. I'm not even certain this will work but you are running out of options. Best wishes
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Dozer987 wrote:Posted By: AveryD12
Date Posted: 12 Jun 2024 at 8:07pm
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I have used a small pipe wrench in similar situations. I don’t know if you have room for a small pipe wrench or not. Just a thought Good luck. Wish I could offer more Avery |
Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2024 at 1:44am
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"There is not enough space to alter the bolt head I wonder if I could heat the clutch hub. There is such a large mass of metal." If it is a long bolt can you heat the threaded end rather than the head? It doesn't look like you have space to get a socket and driver in there? If so can you "modify" a 6 point socket like Coke suggests and then weld a handle on the side of it? Solidly enough to be able to shock it with a hammer. Or before you cut the head off you could try making a groove near the end of a flat and using a blunt air chisel on it. You're going to need a new bolt anyway.
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Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2024 at 5:53am
 If I am reading this correctly you are wanting to remove the bolt, (capscrew) shown with rounding edges securing the driving flange to the clutch hub. If so that bolt is only about 1.750" in length and IIRC 1/2X13tpi. I would heat that bolt head red with a torch till dull red, and with a can of penetrant lubricate where the bolt shank meets the clutch hub. Give a couple of minutes for the oil to creep, and do it again. Once cool and with a blunt punch of some sort of adequate length, smack that bolt head in the sides around it's circumference to get some movement though shock loading. Once this is done then try the pipe wrench, or vice grip routine to twist it out but once free, gingerly loosen, then tighten it back up, then loosen some more, get oil in the gap between the bolt head and hub, then tighten again. Not a lot of room in there so you really don't want to take the head off leaving the shank. ------------- That's All Folks! |
Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2024 at 4:36am
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Progress update? ------------- That's All Folks! |
Posted By: Dozer987
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2024 at 5:45pm
 I am using my HD6G to move the HD6E to position the steering clutch bolt in the best position for whatever comes next. It has been in the 90's here so I only work early mornings. Those that suggest I remove the bolt head do not understand the steering chutch will not come out because the remaining bolt needs to clear the clutch driving hub. If the bolt breakes I will have to cut the drum and remove it in pieces |
Posted By: Dozer987
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2024 at 5:58pm
 I took my photo into paint to make it fit better |
Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2024 at 6:01pm
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I've done that same job and the problem a couple of times. It's a real pain with twisted off fasteners and a lot of $$$ to replace parts that don't need replaced if the fasteners can be removed. The "heat and creep" method along with vibration has worked well with me but great patience needs applied.
------------- That's All Folks! |
Posted By: gemdozer
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2024 at 6:37pm
| If you could reinstaled 2 bols on it could help because all tension is on that last bolt |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2024 at 8:52am
Oh, but I do understand that. It is also the next-to-last thing you want to try (the last thing being to cut the drum apart). With the bolt head removed, you can then pry the hub away from the drum enough (you only need about 1/16") to reach in with the end of a hacksaw blade (cutting on the pull stroke) and then cut the bolt. I did mention that this will be quite tedious.
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Posted By: Ages Cat
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2024 at 9:43am
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I have had (6) clutch drums out on three tractors and replaced discs and bands. The last one was an HD11 which was severely rusted. All the bolts needed heat to remove. I use a Snap-On 1/2" drive 3/4" dogbone to remove and reinstall bolts. It is serrated and grabes the head better. It is offset so a person can put direct pressure on the bolt. Snap-On is the only one have found that offers it in the US. ------------- Curt Anderson HD3, HD5B, HD6AG,HD6B dozer, I-400,615, 616,620,720,ACP25 lift truck, 1956 D Grader, AC 540 loader, AC #84 plow, Simplicity tractors, Agco MT225, Agco 2025, |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2024 at 11:54am
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the heat and tap , the install 2 good bolts , but in the process heat that bolt and melt a wax color crayon onto bolt . the wax will seep into area and act as lubricant in places even penetrating oil won't reach . ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Dozer987
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2024 at 11:12am
 Installed 2 adjacent bolts as suggested. Used a cutting torch to heat clutch hub cherry red. shocked the bolt. Used 19 mm 6 point box wrench to remove the "Last Bolt" The picture does not show the mouse nest. Thank everybody for the advise. |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2024 at 10:46pm
Glad that you got it out without having to cut the bolt
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2024 at 8:40am
| That's a win!!! |