D17 series IV
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=201595
Printed Date: 24 Nov 2024 at 6:58am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D17 series IV
Posted By: AC720Man
Subject: D17 series IV
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2024 at 10:39am
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My neighbor’s pto engagement shaft broke off at the handle flush with the transmission housing. Looks to me it’s going to require a split to repair. Haven’t been out to look at it yet. Is my assumption correct? ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Replies:
Posted By: RedHeeler79
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2024 at 3:57pm
| Yessir, you are correct. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2024 at 10:26pm
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Went by to look at it and it snapped of flush with transmission housing and flush with handle. Looks like a split in the winter. He has plenty of AC tractors to run his Tedder. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: RedHeeler79
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2024 at 10:42pm
| If you tear into over the winter and aren’t rushed for time… I would highly recommend dropping the hydraulic sump and cleaning the screen, clean the screen for power director oil pump too, and disassemble and inspect / repair power director clutch (or at very least, adjust it per service manual, which is very simple while it’s accessible) Make the split worthwhile, since it’s a fairly time consuming job, and you’ll have some money in gaskets, seals and oil. May as well get the most bang for your buck while it’s down for the pto lever repair. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2024 at 7:05am
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Thanks, I appreciate the advice. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2024 at 5:05pm
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We had our D17 IV welded in place 30 years ago. Though about 8 years ago the inner o-ring weeped oil so we split it. |
Posted By: RedHeeler79
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2024 at 5:53pm
| I considered suggesting that, but figured the heat from welding would cook whatever is left of the shaft o-ring and it would just leak. Would get him back to work with it, though, in a pinch! |
Posted By: A-C_220
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2024 at 6:03pm
| I have removed the lever before without splitting by removing the side cover and pushing the pin out with a bolt welded to a strong prybar. It can be tough but usually beats splitting the tractor |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2024 at 6:19pm
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this must be somewhat common if more that one of you has it ??? Did this change from the series III ? Never had a problem with ours. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2024 at 9:51pm
I wondered about welding it but am not familiar enough with this model to suggest it. It would need to do a lot more than weep before I would split a tractor, maybe crying great big crocodile tears of oil leaving a significant puddle.
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Stan R wrote:Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2024 at 6:07am
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Quick weld and quick cooldown. Our weep was a drop maybe every 5 minutes. Though the o-ring maybe just needed replacing due to thousands (??) of pto engagements. Just make sure what orientation the lever was in before it broke? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2024 at 6:27am
| Fully disengaged to the detent puts the lever at straight UP 12 o'clock high. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2024 at 10:02pm
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His dad said he was disconnecting the pto lever when it snapped. Can’t say if it’s totally disconnected or not until I have him start the tractor to see if the pto shaft is still turning. Will go by and have him start it to see. He ran a wheel rake with it yesterday, I should have looked then. I did ask him to check the fluids before continuing to use the tractor. I’ve never heard of this happening before. Obviously I would have never continued to use it in this condition but it’s not mine. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Oldwrench
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2024 at 7:10am
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I'd like to follow up on Steve's question of whether this is a fairly common breakage, or is it due to operator abuse of some kind? It seems that if the clutch is disengaged, even if the pto is still moving, there is very little force needed to disengage using the lever. Hard to imagine normal usage like that would cause a fracture in the rod. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2024 at 7:17am
| Foot clutch down. High inertia implement still spinning. Power Director clutch in low or high range. Maybe tractor still rolling in gear. Yup. There is back pressure against the sliding coupling and makes the lever pull HARD and after 50 or 60 years the weld failed. |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2024 at 7:46am
| The lever is still available from agco |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2024 at 10:01pm
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Pto isn’t turning when tractor is running at this point so it is disconnected. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: 1963D17
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2024 at 2:15pm
| Would it work to drill a hole in the lever and a hole in the shaft and then weld it? To me that would be better than flush welding |
Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2024 at 3:48pm
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Thats what Id do ------------- 1984 80780 1957 D14 DES 300 with 25000 engine 616 tractor |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2024 at 7:48pm
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Drilling the hole in the lever was my thought but had not thought of a hole in the shaft? Waiting to see what Jake wants to do. What is the thought process of the hole in the shaft as well? ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2024 at 8:22pm
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Does this just give more welding material to hold? ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2024 at 8:50pm
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Since the weld starts internally in the shaft it gives more surface area to hold. Its almost like you are creating a bolt ------------- 1984 80780 1957 D14 DES 300 with 25000 engine 616 tractor |
Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2024 at 9:00pm
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I havent looked at mine but if theres enough shaft sticking out you could weld some small key stock lengthways the handle. Grind the end of the shaft so the keys would have a notch to fit in. Drill and tap the shaft drill a hohe in the handle and bolt it to it. The keys would keepnit from slipping ------------- 1984 80780 1957 D14 DES 300 with 25000 engine 616 tractor |