Splitting Tractor
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=201589
Printed Date: 24 Nov 2024 at 4:56am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Splitting Tractor
Posted By: J. Larsen
Subject: Splitting Tractor
Date Posted: 31 May 2024 at 5:21pm
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I need to replace the rear main seal on the engine of my WD45 gas. At first glance, it looks like it comes apart at the differential where the engine side rails attach. I have the rear main seal, and the seal for the hydraulic system. I also have an oil pan gasket. Do you make the break between the clutch and transmission, or is there another place that works better? Are there any "gotcha's" or things that I should be aware of as I start this adventure? Thanks, J. Larsen
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Replies:
Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 31 May 2024 at 7:45pm
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You will split the tractor at the back of engine to transmission casting sliding the front and rear apart. Either block the front end solid and roll the rear away from the front, or use a bridle on the front half to keep it from rotating on the front axle trunion and stay upright while using a gantry and hoist. I don't separate them with a floor jack but rather jacks for the purpose that bolt onto the frame rails, or a rolling gantry crane. The rear half is usually a large floor jack and blocking remaining stationary. ------------- That's All Folks! |
Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 31 May 2024 at 8:59pm
| WD45 has frame rails. No need to split anything. Do you have a service manual? It has a good explanation. |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2024 at 5:35am
Me too. Just pull the right frame-rail off. Then the engine will come out without stands and jacks.
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Ed (Ont) wrote:Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2024 at 5:41am
... and much safer than splitting the tractor, that always has the potential of falling. By pulling the engine, it allows you to put it on a stand and tip it over to work on the oil pan, which is much easier and allows you to seal things up better and easier. If you have a rear oil pan leak (it may not be the rear seal), you should definitely watch the video in the Knowledge Base section of this forum.
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Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2024 at 5:54am
| I pull the engine with both side rails on slide engine front then tilt to the side it will come out the top of the rails take front pulley of first makes it easy |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2024 at 9:59am
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I had my WD45 engine out a few times. Never needed to split or remove any frame rails. I narrow front is easier than a wide. The wide from has the front axle support that's slightly in the way, but it works.
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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2024 at 10:14pm
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J. Larsen, As mentioned you can pull the engine with both frame rails in place. I remember when I had just completed my WD45 project (another thread on here) and I was not pleased with the oil pressure and myself for not doing a better job on the oil pump review and refurb. I had the engine out and upside down in about 2 hours. And that is the best way to work on your rear oil seals too.      Regards, Chris and Cheryl
------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2024 at 7:54am
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Maybe I should add that when I had both of mine apart I also removed the bell-housing and torque tubes to do the hand-clutches. Hence the frame rail removal. Never been lucky enough to just pull the engine! Sugarmaker, good to see you around again!
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