Farm Equipment - 7000 Brakes

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7000 Brakes

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=201576
Printed Date: 24 Nov 2024 at 5:05am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: 7000 Brakes

Posted By: Hurst
Subject: 7000 Brakes
Date Posted: 30 May 2024 at 9:19pm

Was round baling today and my right side brake hung up to the point the brake housing was smoking slightly, so got pretty hot. I just put in new discs, balls, and springs applying a light coat of high temp grease to the balls. Had maybe 2-3 hrs on the new brakes. I backed off the adjuster bolt, but the bolt is now finger tight. It isn’t dragging any more and the housing did eventually cool down, but now that side is very touchy. Once the brake begins to grab, it locks the wheel up. Do you think I weakened the return springs when it got hot? Or any other ideas. Also, I only used one gasket thickness and it seemed to be a good initial adjustment, but now I’m wondering if I need to add another gasket to shim out the outer plate?

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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours

Replies:

Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 31 May 2024 at 6:13am

If it's similar to a D17 disc brake/ ball bearing design, their are tolerances (thousandth inch type) that are required. I assume these tolerances are such that the ball bearings "don't ride up too high on the system" and lock up the brakes.

I believe new springs and ball bearings are also recommended to be replaced with the brake job.

Best to refer to a service manual though.

Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 31 May 2024 at 7:49am

I try not to use anything "wet" in there, like grease or anti-seize. It will be a dust magnet. I like using dry graphite spray, slip plate. Paint the balls and ball sockets with it. Also the edges where the actuators may rub the housing or guide pins.

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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 31 May 2024 at 9:22pm

On the model 7000 tractor, one must be careful not to adjust the brake linkage too tight. When using the brakes intensely, they can get warm. When they get warm they swell up and start dragging and then you get what you got. The brake plates also need to be lubed on the O.D. on the four machined places where they ride inside the brake housing or they can stick there too. Your brake springs may be shot if they got too hot.

Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2024 at 10:31pm

I took the brake apart on that side today. Surprisingly really didn't look bad, no bluing on any metal surfaces and no wear on the new discs, so must have just started dragging when I caught it. I did have a little grease from the actuator on the disc from where the grease I had put on the balls and ramps had come out, so I wiped them down so just a thin film of grease was left on both surfaces and reassembled. The antisize was still on the pinion splines and the actuator pin, and light coat of grease was still on the slide surfaces of the actuator/housing interface. I sprayed the actuator faces and discs down with brake cleaner and wiped them clean, took emory cloth lightly to the actuator plates (there was one scratch I gave an extra pass to so it was not proud of the surface). Put it all back together and both sides are pretty much equal.

Quick question on the free play. Is about 1/2 the travel of the pedal appropriate free travel? Probably comes out to 3.5-4" of free travel. It would make sense that I had it a little tight. That side was catching a little sooner than the other while round baling, and I didn't stop to adjust it even to the other side, so it took more load and was quicker to start dragging. Also, round baling involved stopping around once every minute, so definitely demanding of the brakes especially on hills.

Hurst

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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2024 at 10:39pm

Yeah, about 3.5" to 4.0" pedal movement should be safe. 2.0 inches is TOO TIGHT.

Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2024 at 6:08am

Thanks Doc! I'll get a better measurement of it today to make sure! That would explain some of the issues in the past of them dragging while round baling... Sure takes them a long time to cool down if they get hot!

Hurst

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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours