Farm Equipment - 190xt clutch noise

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190xt clutch noise

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=201489
Printed Date: 26 Jun 2024 at 1:30am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: 190xt clutch noise

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Subject: 190xt clutch noise
Date Posted: 24 May 2024 at 11:17pm

Hello I have recently acquired a 190xt it been a good tractor but recently when you let off the clutch right when it engages it makes a growing/howling sound but then goes away after the clutch engages as well as is there a way to adjust the power director to keep the tractor from creeping when in neutral or is this related to the sound? Thank you any advice is appreciated.

Replies:

Posted By: jdeere562
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 12:29am

Sounds like a release bearing going bad.

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 12:36am

Jdeere562 do you know if that would be quite the project to fix or other ways to test this I am only a high schooler so just trying to learn and hopefully get a good tractor out of it thanks

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 12:38am

I did not mention that occasionally the transmission will not shift as in the clutch dose not seem to do anything in slowing the gears at all don't know if this info is helpful

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 6:19am

When you depress down fully on the clutch pedal and the transmission gears continually want to "grind" to try and shift into gear (like they don't stop rotating) that generally means the foot clutch is nearing the end of its service life. There are broken pieces of the clutch disc floating around inside the clutch disc cavity that are causing this. The clutch engagement noise you hear can also be related to the same problem. Power Director clutch creeping in neutral is NORMALLY a cold oil thing and that's the way they can be. Could be a problem, but also maybe not anything to be concerned about.

Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 6:39am

Replacing the throw out bearing and clutch requires the tractor to be slit in half. My 190 works best to be at idle, depress the clutch fully and pause for a few seconds before shifting into gear. If it grinds at all do not force it into gear, allow the clutch to fully disengage before attempting again. If the previous owner continued to grind the gears it will become a gear jumper meaning the transmission will jump out of gear going down a hill which is very dangerous while having a load behind you.

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

Posted By: jdeere562
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 12:52pm

DrAllis Answered your question better than my reply.

Whatever it is in there, the tractor will need to be split between the engine and clutch housing. And like he said, the power director will creep with cold oil.

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 1:39pm

Ac720man yes I normally do pause before shift like any of out other tractors but even after minutes it still grinds

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 1:41pm

Drallis That is probably so because after shut off or sitting for a while the clutch will slow/stop the gears just fine. I will start preparing to split the tractor this weekend and will report if I find any issues

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 2:23pm

If that tractor uses a actual bearing for pilot brg and it it froze or stiff it will tend to continue turning clutch shaft making it hard to engage

Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 10:34pm

Welcome to the forum.

Your location says wi. Look up A&W tractor for help finding parts.

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 10:39pm

Mike thank you very much for the advice just need to start tearing into this thing and see what's going on

Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 10:42pm

Also buy yourself a parts book and service manual.

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 10:42pm

What would be the best way to support the rear end I have a plan to build some legs for the motor side on casters but don't really have a good idea on supporting the platform side

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 10:43pm

Mike I do have a parts manual but I do need to look into a service manual

Posted By: jdeere562
Date Posted: 26 May 2024 at 5:05pm

I've split them before with a big block and hydraulic jack under the back end. Then supported the torque housing with a heavy duty metal sawhorse, shim as needed on top with wood boards. Not fancy, but it worked.

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 26 May 2024 at 11:05pm

Thank you I got it split but who knew the hard part would be trying to post the pictures

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 26 May 2024 at 11:08pm

Dr allis the clutch you were referring to would be the one on the flywheel correct? Thank you all for the help

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 26 May 2024 at 11:15pm

Yes. The foot clutch. A proper clutch job includes a new clutch disc, reman pressure plate, new throwout bearing and new pilot bearing, rear crankshaft seal and wear sleeve, a new clutch shaft seal and gasket. Machine flywheel to 1.437" depth. Use a long dowel on one hole of each side frame to split it and keep the engine weight on the stud.

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 26 May 2024 at 11:35pm

The flywheel seems good no scratchs that I can catch with my finger nail. How dose one disassemble the pilot bearing and sleave as you said

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 27 May 2024 at 6:40am

Were there small pieces floating around inside the clutch disc cavity or not ?? Rear crank seal and wear sleeve require removing the flywheel from the engine. You're complaining about a noise when engaging the clutch. Machining the flywheel to spec will take care of that with a new clutch disc. if you don't machine the flywheel you might still have the noise. Good luck. Do it however you want.

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 27 May 2024 at 10:13am

I think i will remove the flywheel and get it machined. The clutch mat was worn heavily almost to the rivets aswell as the pilot bearing being worn and having alot of play. Is that bearing pressed on the cast there or what is the trick to removing it. Thank you

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 27 May 2024 at 10:14am

Where do you recommend for getting the flywheel machined.

Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 27 May 2024 at 11:24am

Did you look up a& w tractor. How far away are you from him are you

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 27 May 2024 at 11:25am

Hour and a half so not too bad

Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 27 May 2024 at 11:34am

I don’t want to speak for him but he’s vary helpful. Give him a call. His business is fixing and parts for these tractors. I would assume he could point you in a direction of good machine shop for flywheel and would probably have all the parts needed

Posted By: Robertschmitz1086
Date Posted: 27 May 2024 at 11:36am

I will definitely give him a call thank you all for the help I couldn't of done it with out some guidance