Learning how to plow
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=201338
Printed Date: 26 Jun 2024 at 1:44am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Learning how to plow
Posted By: J. Larsen
Subject: Learning how to plow
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 3:12pm
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1. I purchased a Case 3 bottom 16" moldboard plow. 2. Since this is not a snap coupler plow, I'm thinking that I need to use the position control to regulate the depth of the plow. When I drop the plow to the ground and start forward with the tractor, the 3 point hitch arms stay at the predetermined level, but the plow trys to go to the center of the earth, raises the front end off the ground, and spins out. 3. This probably should have been my first statement, this is a gasoline WD45. Do I need to install a gauge wheel on the plow to prevent it from going to deep? 4. The tires are filled with calcium, but I don't believe to the max. 5. Any suggestions on what I need to do different? Thanks, JL
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Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 3:42pm
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when you set the plow on the ground, how HORIZONTAL is the bottom relative to the ground ? ........ You can adjust your TOP LINK if your digging in too much. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: ac45dave
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 3:47pm
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This video does a good job on plow set up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjZSTwJ3laI" rel="nofollow - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjZSTwJ3laI ------------- 54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 3:56pm
| A WD-45 doesn't have a "depth" control. The plow needs a slip heel on the rear bottom or a tire beside the rear bottom. Traction Booster system must be working properly (if it can) with your type of 3 point hitch. Rear wheels must be set to correct width. 3 x 16's on a WD-45 in some soils may be too much plow. |
Posted By: J. Larsen
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 5:58pm
| I have the plow level on both axis. I've not went far enough to have to compensate for the wheels being in the furrow. If I lengthen the top link, won't that just put the rear bottom deeper? |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 5:59pm
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#1 if possible, find an operators manual for your Case plow #2 access how worn out the landslides are. Worn landslides will allow the plow to track towards the land. #3 most 3pt plows have the ability to alter the orientation of the pullbar to help center the draft: Refer to operators manual. #4 Go find a snap coupler plow. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 6:04pm
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are all three digging in together... or is the FRONT digging while the back slip heal is still setting on the ground ? ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 6:24pm
| Add-on 3-point hitches are sometimes not really well designed. By that I mean the actual length of the draft/pull arms may be too long, moving the plow farther away from the tractor, which makes it pull harder. Lengthening the top link will tend to "nose up" the plow, which will help keep it from sucking itself too deep making it too much load for your tractor. Pretty easy to give the top link a couple of turns longer at a time and see what it does for you. |
Posted By: J. Larsen
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:02pm
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I enjoyed the video, and looking forward to trying the plow settings that were demonstrated. I have come to the conclusion that I need a gauge wheel by the rear molboard. Thanks for the input. JL. |
Posted By: J. Larsen
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:06pm
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I agree that controlling the rear molboard is my priority right now, before I can work on other adjustments. Tell me about the slip heel, I don't know as I understand what that is? Thanks, JL |
Posted By: J. Larsen
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:09pm
| I would love to find a snap coupler plow! |
Posted By: J. Larsen
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:12pm
| They all seem to be going in together. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:27pm
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I have come to the conclusion that I need a gauge wheel by the rear molboard. the HEEL , like on your foot , is at the back and keeps you from sinking into the ground... as you said... a WHEEL serves the same purpose.. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:40pm
| None of the older snap-coupler plows had a depth wheel on them. They had a slip heel on the rear plow bottom. I have both types and they both work well if one knows how to adjust the plow. Why you wouldn't re-try your plow by lengthening the top link is beyond me. It's easy to do and costs NOTHING. Also, does your 3-pt hitch activate the Traction Booster system or not ??????? It is a tremendous advantage to have the Traction Booster working, especially with a plow that may be 6 inches too wide of cut for a WD-45 tractor. |
Posted By: J. Larsen
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:43pm
| So is this something different than the landside, or is it like a skid plate that attaches to the landside? |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 10:46pm
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GOOGLE.... AI Overview Yes, the rear bottom end of a landslide that rubs against the furrow sole is known as the heel of a plow. The heel is used in plows that don't have a rear furrow wheel. Some plows have a cast-iron slip heel that can be easily replaced. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 14 May 2024 at 11:02pm
| Tell us about the hitch you have. Where / what is it attatched to to pull? Maybe it renders your traction booster useless. That would not lead to success with a 3pt plow especially. |
Posted By: Steve A
Date Posted: 15 May 2024 at 8:04pm
| Post some pictures of the 3 pt hitch, back of the tractor--especially where the top link is hooked up, the plow, etc. |
Posted By: J. Larsen
Date Posted: 15 May 2024 at 10:40pm
| I will try to get some pics tomorrow. |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 15 May 2024 at 10:44pm
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Your WD45’s right side tire(s) should be running in plow furrow ~ correct? If yes, adjust tractor’s right side wheels outward to allow 16” bottom width measured from inside wall of right rear tire to landside of 1st bottom. Then 3pt hitch’s lower draft arms need to be adjusted to proper heights to allow plow to run level while tractor is operating with right tire(s) in plow furrow. To do this, set lower left draft arm at its lowest height setting. Then set lower right draft arm about 2” higher from its lowest height setting. Now with plow initially leveled but slightly tilted upward on its right side, lower plow into unplowed field to create first pass. There is no furrow, so right side of plow will be running shallow. That’s ok. Plow will not be as difficult to pull. And this first pass shouldn’t ridge up as bad on its right side? After plowing 50’ or so, operator can then stop & adjust plow’s rear depth to attain 7”? 8”? or whatever furrow depth is desired. For front of plow depth, use tractor’s traction booster. Now plow has been initially leveled from front to rear. Once a furrow has been created, plow’s left to right level & front to back level can both be tweaked as needed. |
Posted By: rtwfarm
Date Posted: 16 May 2024 at 3:56am
| Have several snap coupler plows 402-469-1738 cheap |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 16 May 2024 at 6:24am
Well it’s only been like 6 hours, and now it’s dark, so maybe he’ll try it, give him some time. |
DrAllis wrote:Posted By: Oldwrench
Date Posted: 16 May 2024 at 6:40am
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Here is a semi-mounted snap coupler plow with a tail wheel. It is in central NY though. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1657517001453723/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A9672b590-0917-434d-a0f5-03cd1e5d61f3" rel="nofollow - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1657517001453723/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A9672b590-0917-434d-a0f5-03cd1e5d61f3 |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 16 May 2024 at 8:18am
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A good snap-coupler plow would be the best solution as others have alluded to. However, his location is a complicating factor. Seems like there is a model 53 plow in every section in Iowa, and several in most! In his part of Wyoming, machinery is harder to come by! I've got multiple good snap-coupler plows I'd sell too but RTW and probably others are much closer. |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 16 May 2024 at 5:21pm
Does it’s 3 pt have adjustable height draft arms?? |
Posted By: J. Larsen
Date Posted: 16 May 2024 at 8:50pm
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I appreciate all of the suggestions, and just need to find the time to try them all out. I need to set the hyd pump up for traction booster and try some different top link settings. I do have adjustable lift arms. I had sent some pics on a different thread, and I just need to teach myself how to do it again. Does any one have a picture of the slipper, that sounds pretty easy to fabricate and install. I'm afraid of the freight cost to purchase a snap coupler plow and have it shipped to WY. What does a good plow go for? Thanks again for all the suggestions. JL |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 17 May 2024 at 7:48am
My experience is FAR less than virtually everyone on this forum but my Father-in-law's WD with the Snap Coupler 2-14's in our hard soil was about all it wanted.
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Posted By: J. Larsen
Date Posted: 17 May 2024 at 7:48pm
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I think I made some progress today. When I rechecked my hyd. pump linkage, I left the plow attached. I set the hyd system for traction boost mode. The plow didn't try and sink to the center of the earth, in fact I could only get it to go in the ground 2 or 3 inches, then the traction booster would raise it up, and then back into the ground again, but constantly going up and down. My quadrant lever was as far down as possible. I lengthened the 3 point arms, but didn't make much difference. I feel good that the TB seems to be trying to work, but not sure I'm getting all of the finesse in the adjusting procedure. I brought everything back in the shop and removed the plow and went through the linkage adjustments once again, but it just didn't seem quiet right. Put the plow on,and it acted the same way, just constantly going up and down,but only into the ground a couple of inches. I know it's asking alot, but I think it would be very helpful for me if someone that's familiar with this system would get on a video call with me, and walk through the adjustments with me. Any thoughts? Thanks, JL |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 May 2024 at 8:00pm
| The large coil spring that surrounds the PTO shaft may have some shims that can be removed to make the spring stiffer to keep the plow from hunting like it is. Loosen the two 1/2" bolts to remove the shims and retighten the bolts afterwards. ***** There could also be an engineering problem using a 3 point hitch versus the regular snap-coupler hitch. When the lift arms raise one inch, the 3-point hitch draft arms raise MORE than one inch, which lifts the plow more than a snap-coupler plow would be lifted. A-C engineered the Traction Booster system around their lift arm length and snap-coupler plow dimensions. It may never work right as a 3-point hitch system. |
Posted By: J. Larsen
Date Posted: 17 May 2024 at 10:16pm
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I'm following exactly what you are saying about the drawbar spring. I had those bolts out today, but i understood the book stated that there should be 3/16" of free play on the spring. That's an easy item to try. Thanks, JL |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 May 2024 at 10:56pm
| More shims moves your hand lever down when plowing. Less shims moves the lever up when you are plowing, You need less shims to get your lever up a little bit while plowing. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 18 May 2024 at 12:07am
| I had to remove some shims to keep my 4-16 in the ground. Lever all the way down and still getting pulled out of the ground. |
Posted By: J. Larsen
Date Posted: 20 May 2024 at 6:50pm
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I adjusted the drawbar spring with no appreciable effect. I have decided I need a snap coupler plow. Are parts still available for those? Would you recommend 2-14s, or 3-14s? Are there any west of the Mississippi? Thanks, JL |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 May 2024 at 8:19pm
| Drawbar spring is at correct tension if you can leave the hydraulic lever clear down and the Traction Booster system doesn't activate while plowing. Moving the hyd lever up one inch from the bottom should make Traction Booster start working. Any healthy WD45 with fluid in the rear tires will handle 3 x 14;s where I live. |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 21 May 2024 at 8:36am
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I've got a really nice 3-14's model 53 I'd sell. But, there has to be fifty or more of them closer to you. I've been to Lander, once, that's a loooong drive from Newton Iowa! |
Posted By: dkattau
Date Posted: 21 May 2024 at 9:32am
Try BigIron or AuctionTime. There’s usually a snap coupler plow for sale on one of them. |