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AC 190 hydraulic issues

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=200931
Printed Date: 17 May 2024 at 12:04pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: AC 190 hydraulic issues
Posted By: Allis Eli
Subject: AC 190 hydraulic issues
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2024 at 12:34pm
Hi everyone just joined the forum. Looking for some advice on my Allis Chalmers 190 with low hydraulic pressure

when bought the tractor it had been sitting for 5 years. It has 3900 hours gas engine. I just got it running and

now it runs and drives good.

however the hydraulic linkage was stuck so I freed that up. I tried to lift a 5x6 round bale on the three point and it
would not lift. it did not even pull the engine down so I changed the hydraulic filter and filled oil. power steering works and so does the power director. I already pulled both the relief valves on the valve stack they were clean so I reinstalled both of them. still won't lift bale. if I understand correctly the front relief valve is for the traction boost and the back one is three point? so does the relief vale need new seals or swap or something. or is the pump possibly going out.

thanks



Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2024 at 3:40pm
Swap the two relief valve positions and try it. If you now have hydraulics, the one in the Traction Booster location needs a seal kit or replace with new.


Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2024 at 7:14pm
The relief valves are adjustable. A quality gauge plugged into one of the remote outlets will tell you what you have now and later, after you have adjusted it. 2300 psi is approximately what you want. Half a turn at a time with the screw. You don't want to overdo it.


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2024 at 8:44pm
okay thanks for the reply's. I will switch the relief valves I don't have a hydraulic gauge where would you recommend for getting one.


Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2024 at 10:23pm
Don't forget to check the sump screen under the tractor. When I bought mine is was really dirty and obviously had not been cleaned for a long time. After cleaning it and swapping valves, although it helped, the pump was in dire need of a rebuild. Sent it to SLI for a rebuild and luckily they was able to rebuild it. Now it works great. My good friend just had to purchase a new pump for his series 1 as his could not be rebuilt. $2,800, I hope a valve swap fixes your issue. Rebuilt his valve since it kept sticking but unfortunately the pump was the issue.

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2024 at 6:41am
Get yourself a 3,000 psi gauge and attach a hydraulic tip onto it. Plug it in a remote outlet and activate that remote lever with engine throttled up to 2,000 RPM or more. Traction Booster relief valve is 2100 psi and main relief is 22-2300 psi max.


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2024 at 8:19pm
hey everyone here is a quick update on the 190. I took out both relief valves and opened them to inspect the orings. on both of them they were completely worn out and cracked. where would you recommend getting new ones. I did find part number (70276323) are these the right seals? also 100 bucks seems like a awful lot for some orings and other parts anyone have any good sources to get these cheaper? thanks for everything


Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2024 at 8:34pm
I remember those being really expensive when we rebuilt Mutts, I mean crazy expensive from AGCO. The parts book or an AGCO dealer can verify the part number.

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2024 at 8:35pm
okay thanks


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2024 at 9:37pm
It will be money well spent. It gives your tractor back. A year from now you'll not know it.


Posted By: ksbowman
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2024 at 7:17am
When I rebuilt the relief valves on my 180 I just used the ones out of my O-ring kit. That was about a year ago and it is still working great.


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2024 at 8:23am
so your saying that you just bought some cheap orings that were close to the right size? I have a lot of good orings I am just not sure if they are hydraulic rated or whatever. thanks


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2024 at 8:25am
There is at least ONE split back-up ring and you aren't going to kind that very easy. They are not  "cheap" quality Orings.


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2024 at 8:53am
okay so you would recommend just biting the bullet and getting the 100$ set from Agco


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2024 at 9:00am
I don't like their prices either, but how much screwing around does one want to do to try and duplicate the correct parts ???


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2024 at 10:00am
okay sounds good I will order the good ones


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2024 at 7:39am
As with ANY relief valve rebuilding, I never change the adjustment screw from where it was unless pressure testing reveals otherwise. Ease a remote lever (with 3000 psi gauge plugged in) into engagement SLOWLY ( at 2,000 RPM) to see what you have and do NOT exceed 2200-2300 psi or you will explode the hydraulic pump.


Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2024 at 7:56am
Might pay to get the right stuff and not have to do the job over again with possible more damage the next time! I just paid $75. at IH for a z-turn mower ignition switch that should have been $20 tops, BUT at least it works so  I guess the dealers gotta have somebody pay for their fancy stores!  The choice is yours!

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http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/


Posted By: EPALLIS
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2024 at 10:41am
I think most on here have "their issues with AGCO".  However, at the end of the day and when all is said and done, I am so grateful they are still here and servicing 60 year old tractors.  Not all companies would do that.  Good luck and hope the repair goes well!


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2024 at 11:56am
hey everyone I did some more research on the hydraulic relief valves for my 190 and found that A&W tractor has a brand new relief valve for 115$ or I could just spend 100$ on seals. would you guys by the whole relief valve or just the seals. I feel like it would be much easier just to install the new relief valves them taker the old ones apart and install new seals. thanks


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2024 at 10:07am
hey everyone today I hooked up a three point tiller to my 190. I lifted it fine its a larger one 400-500lbs. It still won't lift a round bale. do you think the relief valve is maybe just out of adjustment? if it is how would I adjust it. I am assuming I would get a 3,000 psi gauge and put it on the remotes and them turn the screw in for more psi and out for less?

thanks


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2024 at 2:46pm
Relief valve must be set for 2,200 to 2,300 PSI. Top link for the three point hitch should be in the TOP hole on a factory three point hitch.


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2024 at 3:13pm
thanks Dr Allis


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2024 at 3:52pm
Failure to be able to adjust the main relief valve to the proper pressure with the engine at 2,000 RPM would indicate the hydraulic pump lift section has a problem.


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2024 at 9:48am
hey all. I decided to bite the bullet and order a new relief valve from A&W tractor. which relief valve do I need to take and and put in the new one. is it the Relief valve on the back of the valve stack or front? thanks


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2024 at 1:45pm
Rear cartridge is the main relief valve.


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2024 at 1:51pm
thanks Dr allis. also the new relief valve is supposed to be pre set at 2000 psi. I assume I would still want to back the screw out and pressure test it then and add pressure little by little?

Thanks


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2024 at 2:08pm
No. If it is supposed to be set at 2,000, it should be at 2,000. CAREFULLY and GENTLY ease into your remote lever with a 3,000 psi gauge and do NOT exceed 2300 psi. In fact, the truth of the matter is this......if 2,000 psi system pressure will lift the heaviest item you have, the hydraulic pump will last longer at 2,000 psi than it will at 2,300 psi.


Posted By: GSTROM99
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2024 at 9:40am
You can't guess what the pressure is.  Like voltage, you need to measure it.  3k psi gauges are available almost everywhere.  Amzn is a good source.  I ordered a 5k psi gauge (for my D-17 hyd issue) from my local NAPA (I like to shop local whenever I can).  The fittings were the challenge.


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2024 at 2:13pm
I got a good gauge 5k psi gauge plugged into the remotes. so I will just install it and test carefully from there

Thanks


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2024 at 8:06pm
hey everyone. I am wondering about my 190 hydraulics again. my gauge from Napa reads only 1200 psi. I installed a relief valve that is supposed to be pre set at 2000 psi. however when the tractor is running 1400rpms If I engage the remotes it strains the engine. gauge still only reads 1200 psi. could the gauge not function properly if there is air or something in it? it is a 5k psi gauge. or is the hydraulic pump going out? the previous owner did redo the pump so I am guessing It is still good. thanks


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2024 at 8:33pm
Multiple times you were told to check pressures at 2,000 rpm or more. Why aren't you ?? Never have you said who you bought the tractor from had just been thru the hydraulic pump. This would have been nice to know. A 3K gauge is better than a 5K gauge. Re check at wide open throttle. Adjust the relief valve "in" 1/2 turn at a time and if you cannot reach 2,000 psi you have PUMP trouble.


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2024 at 8:40pm
okay will do


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 01 May 2024 at 11:06am
hey everyone update on the 190. I tested the relief valve at 2000 rpm and I was getting less psi than before only peaked maybe 1000. I tried adjusting it but nothing, I turned it in 1/2 turn per time . I turned it in 3 whole turns in and psi stayed the same. I am guessing pump needs a rebuild. previous owner did put in new plates so I am wondering if maybe the suction screen is clogged or?

Thanks


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 May 2024 at 12:28pm
Back off the relief valve before you forget. Not a plugged screen or filter. Your power steering works fine so that ain't it.


Posted By: Allis Eli
Date Posted: 01 May 2024 at 1:10pm
so what would be your recommendation on Redoing the pump?


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 May 2024 at 2:37pm
Remove the pump. Find someone who is capable of going thru it. Explain to them the problem is only on the lift section and not the power steering or Traction Booster pumps.



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