Thus, I have always love idea of rebuilding this tractor.  Not so sure it is possible since it has been sitting in the trees for almost 40 yrs.  However, with an extra CA for parts, two shall become one with the help of my bother, and a great longtime friend. 

Instead of heading out to sea, he was stationed in San Francisco until the finger healed. It was during those months as a MP for the Navy keeping everyone out of trouble in San Fran he met my Mom! If it wasn't because of the injury from the belt pump, he may have never met my Mom. 

 

  

Here are a few pic's of the other CA we bought.  Was a 750 mile road trip with my friend... was a great day.  Has not run for a number of years. While it was outside, it had been covered and turned over (vs. my Dad's). 

Between the two tractors, and a few other parts we will put it together.

Once running and timed, there was good oil pressure and no leaks.  Coolant was in good condition as well. Actually ran well after the carb was adjusted. Definitely needs a carb rebuild and we will check compression.  If needed, excited to rebuild the engine. 
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The front end looks simple, but suspect there will be surprises.  I was looking for front end spindle bushings but cann't find any.  Just in case old ones are shot.  Hope I will be able to get them freed up.  Tie-rods appear good but we will see.

I'm really happy for you to be bringing a piece of your family history back from the dead.  It's the relationship with a 'family' tractor that makes it even better to be rebuilding, albeit with some 'farmed in' pieces.

You CAN save the serial #, but it'll entail a lot of work, but in the end you'll be VERY happy with the outcome and have the family heirloom back in working order.

You should have NO problem with finding parts as there were a number of these made, although they are getting scarcer all the time.

It is a GREAT little tractor with a lot more guts that it looks capable of.

Thanks fro saving another Allis!!  Keep the pics coming and the progress as you go along!  If you need anything, just ask and you can follow another CA rebuild by looking at a thread that is being done by 'Sugarmaker'.

Good luck and ENJOY!!  The accomplishment is worth all the grief, swearing and busted knuckles!!

Agree it is exciting to bring back that piece of history. Love the comment about having "farmed in" pieces.  

At least we will keep the skeleton of the my GP/Dad's CA in the trees.  Will keep it in mind and when I have some time and set aside some $.  

The last tractor transmission I rebuilt was years ago and was a old Hough payloader model ? that my Dad bought used in the late 50's.  I convinced my mechanic's teacher in high school (early 80's) to let me rebuild the "M" engine and parts of the transmission and back end.  Took most of my senior year but was successful.  It worked well, but was a beast to drive without power-stearing.  Used this on the farm for over a decade, until Dad had carb troubles and he replaced it with a used tractor loader.  

Thus, ~40 years later it also sits parked. :'(   It still turns over, but has not ran for ~25-30 years.  I will load up a picture of this unique loader later.

  

   

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Sounds like a family affair goin' on there!!  Keep us posted! We love pics to!  When the time comes and you need wiring for that puppy, keep us in mind. Good Luck!

Steve@B&B

bb-customcircuits.com

  

Thinking about a 12" X 24" turf tire ( https://www.prioritytire.com/firestone-all-non-skid-tractor-8-3-24-88a7-4-ply-as-a-s-all-season-tire?gad_source=1" rel="nofollow - https://www.prioritytire.com/firestone-all-non-skid-tractor-8-3-24-88a7-4-ply-as-a-s-all-season-tire?gad_source=1 ) for the rear tire but 12 vs shown 8. Or stick with the traditional 12X24?

Thoughts on the rear tires?

    

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Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA

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316 stainless has a tensile strength of 180000 psi which is higher than grade 8 of 150000 psi.  Just don't use 314 or 18-8.  

I do love marine grade (316) since it is the only one who will not rust in harsh conditions.  I use it all the time for that reason.  Did not know it had that tensile strength. 

If this is used, I would expect you would not "rust" to the manifold, and still have the strength to remove from the manifold years from now.  If you did break it, it would be a pain to remove/drill out!

    

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Make sure you turn up the volume.

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Also took off the brakes.  The pads were quite worn and broken up. "Drums" do look good, not 100% but reasonable for now.  

Do appreciate the prior owners who drilled out the middle side of the pins.  Was easy to remove after a couple of days of panther piss.  However, there was a ton of dirt, oil and etc which made it a challenge to remove the pads due to the space being full of organic material.  We prevailed.  

Next is to remove all other sand blast-able parts including the tire rims.

  

  

Radiator is off, now need to pressurize and find any leaking spots.  Hope to fix vs. buy a new one for ~$200. :'|  

Wiring, generator and starter are now off.  We set aside the wiring as a template when reassembling.  I have new wire and connectors with heat resistant black wrap. 

Was able to remove the front spindle bushings and clean up the spindles.  Do need to use a bit of emory cloth to finalize before assembly.

Did find out the mid steering box is adjustable. An 8th of a turn took out almost all of the slack.  Need to check/add oil grease.

This week we will pick up a new rear tire.  One is in good shape the other has many cracks.  Realized our center pivot tires on the farm are 11.2"X24" and plan to use one of those tires.  I did find many on FaceBook for $50 or more which would also work. Ironically, when I was looking at the other rear tires to see if I should replace it I realized it was also an old pivot irrigation tire!

Next steps: Continue clean up!!  Press in the new spindle bushings, reassemble the spindles, rebuild/repack the the front wheel hub bearings and with new seals reassemble.  Then swap out the front end.

    

Spent the day cleaning.  With a putty knife, screwdriver and wire brush, took all the "chunks" off the engine, torque tube and part of the transmission and differential.  Cleaned up the air filter and should be ready for a bit of sanding and then paint (planning black).  You just gotta love "Brake and Parts Cleaner" for removing the oil and grease as well!  Pretty much strips off everything which was awesome.   Here is air filter, ready for sanding and then paint.

The engine and torque tube!

Torque tube and steering box!

Transmission, differential and PTO/hydraulics!!

A bit backwards, but before all the above, we spent a few hours cleaning.  The results of the day were achieved by the right tools and as previously note...... brake and parts cleaner.  

Notably the best kick ass tool of the day was..... a cordless Milwaukee Hand grinder.  This was awesome to clean up the rest. The Milwaukee drill with a SS wire bur was also a huge thumbs up!!!

Also filled the steering box with Lucas Hub Oil and will check for leaks.

Still need to  dig into the hydraulic system and find the suspected bad "O"-ring.  Then the inner final drive seal need to be replaced!!

  

Spent the rest of the day replacing electronic hardware at the house after a lightning strike .  It took out our internet router, network switch, all the TV's, my Hubitat Hub, security cameras, smart switches and a few sound system amps.  Thankfully, furnace and appliances are OK.  

Thank goodness we didn't have a fire or anything more serious!!! 

  

Thoughts on the following..... Planning Persian Orange #1 and black.

Black paint:  Air filter, front wheel hubs and lug bolts (rims are orange), rear wheel power rims (inner to be orange), steering shaft, gear shifter, hand clutch lever, alternator and starter.

Orange: Everything else.

Thoughts???

It's your tractor and you should paint it whatever you want, but there was nothing painted black when it left the factory.

We pulled a couple of cold rolled angle iron from the iron pile to support the front end while we rebuild and change out the front axil.  Didn't take much with the drill press and pilot hole and a 11/16" bit.  Bought some 5/8" schedule 8 bolts and put it all together.  A piece of C-channel at the base wire welded, to fix the base, just because!!!

  

He was 82 years old in human years!!!!  An amazing family member.  Yes, he is chasing rabbits in the field!!

Yep even like the cat and the cat liked him!!!

  

   

You do a good writeup on the overhaul.. Pictures are GREAT... Would make a good BOOK !

It has been fun to "document" the journey.  Family and friends are following along.  It has been about..... bringing back something that reminds us of our Dad and Grandfather and the family farm which was homesteaded by my Great Grandfather almost 150 years ago.  

While I will not use the CA as my livelihood like my Dad and Grandfather, I love that it is still used and part of the family. 

   

As most of you would guess....... with a farm that has near a 150 year history, we now need to decide what to do with the numerous vehicles and many, many other old long abandoned tractors and implements that have been used over the past 150 years.  We have everything from the horse drawn plow which is now the mail box, to modern equipment.  It is a constant clean up and my Sis has been awesome!!

Still have my 68 Pontiac LeMans I drove in High School (it is not salvageable due to rust).  We rebuilt the engine, added a low ratio Muncie transmission and changed to a 4.88 rear end. Was a rocket off the line with 12' slicks!!!  Was pretty sly and never really got in trouble..... or caught.!!!!   My driving:  After the green light, the clutch is not needed!!!

  

Sorry for your loss of your best friend.  I still look down so I'm not stepping on ours.

On the oil filter mount, take a straight edge and check the mount.  A lot of times they are 'warped' because of over tightening the two bolts, causing them to curve.  A little flat file on em works good.

A family heirloom is a wonderful thing!!  Think about how the farm went from horses to where it is now.  Things have gotten a lot easier!

It is really impressive how it changed within 3 generations starting with the horse and manual labor...  Today it is still hard work but as you mentioned easier to get things done on a larger scale.

Amazing to think that the CA was ~$1,900 in 1958.  

In contrast:

Thus not too far off for the HP purchased.

  

Here is the old unit (snagged the hubs and wheel bearings which look to be in condition).

Here is sand blasted and primed front end from my family CA.

Next will be to put on the spindles and hub after repacking.

   

I do have new bushings!  Planning to put them in this weekend and finish up the front.  Will still need to sandblast the front rims with the back rims and mount new tires. 

  

Then pressed on the front wheel seals. Used the front wheel hub flipped over and with a rubber mallet "pressed" them....... or more appropriately hammered them on!  The bearing cones were in good condition thus, we repacked them using a bearing repacking cup, cone and grease gun.  

WOW the cup and cone was a ton easier and faster than doing it by hand!!! 

Here it is reassembled with a new cotter pin!!

The assembled hubs, ready to put into the front end.

We did have enough time to press in three of the spindle bushings.  However, we didn't really press them in (just like the front wheel seals) but used a rubber mallet and a piece of hard wood to set them in the front end spindle.  Was a bit of a pain to get the job done without damaging the bushings, but we succeeded.  

This is where I miss all the tools on the farm.  Today I wish I had the hydraulic press!!!

Finally, started painting parts that we have stripped and cleaned.  This is going to look awesome!!

That's progress for sure.

I use a 1" piece of all thread to pull those bushings in with, works pretty good.

That is awesome!!  Will definitely do that for the last one vs. taking it off the front end.

Thank you!

I could not find a 1" all-thread, but did find a 5/8"!  It really worked awesome to set the spindle bushings.  

The washer did spin a bit and flared the bushing.  Nothing that a dill burr and emory cloth won't quickly fix.  Awesome job!!!  Very much appreciate the suggestion, IBWD Mike!!!

Primed the engine first.

Next is black manifold paint.  Ceramic and "resistant" to 2000 degrees.  We will see, but I am skeptical!!

Cleaned up the rims with a wire brush and drill. There were a few bent parts of the rims that we straightened and cleaned up. Then primed them and finally at the end of the day gave them the first coat of gloss black. New tires go on this week.  

You can also see the air filter that has its first coat of gloss black.

Then after more clean up..... and when the primer was dry, we painted more.   

It looks awesome!!!

And some miscellaneous pieces painted and to be painted.

Today, we straightened out the "tool box", took off the old hinge to the tool box cover and ground down the prior spot welds.  Then wire welded the new cover on and ground down the wire weld. 

Finally bought a Delco-Remy 63 amp alternator.  Partly straightened the old generator bracket..... need some heat to finish.  Then chop saw some iron and weld the support for the alternator mount on the underside, and finally drill new mounting holes.  

Next time on the farm need to snag an alternator off one of the old cars so I can get the core charge refunded!

Here is a three row aluminum that fits perfectly...... Just need to make sure the hood and grill fit without issue!!

Here we cleaned the lower radiator pipe with the drill and wire brush. Excited to connect them to the new radiator.  After cleaning with a wire brush, we primed them!!

Also cleaned up a number of small items and primed them including the stearing tube and PTO guard.. more pictures later to show these items.....

Here is the fan installed with the fan pulley painted black.  Also you can see the manifold that we painted black with 2,000 degree ceramic paint.  Always a bit skeptical of heat resistant paint and if it really is heat resistant..... we will see.

Another view of the manifold and assembled fan and pulley.  Excited to install the new aluminum radiator this weekend.

Final touch up of the air filter.  Plan to install this Friday when the new air cleaner hose arrives.

Painted the gear shift black..  Next is to paint the clutch handle black.

... and the steering tube black as well! It will need a bit of sanding and a final coat before we re-install the steering tube and steering wheel.

Final coat of paint to the front wheel hubs.

Just need the final touches on the front wheels and tires and then install.  More to come on that.....

Finally a few random parts we painted!

Next is the alternator when it arrives and then the wiring.  Just remembered I want to paint the starter black and need to re-install the magneto.

First there was no gasket between the upper controller lever and the pump at the arrow below.  No doubt this was leaking when the hydraulics were under pressure with a load on the cylinders.  Thus, I cleaned up both surfaces which had pieces of old gasket and made a new gasket with a ball-ping hammer.

Hahaha, in looking at these pictures above, I see yet more 70 year old hard dirt/grime/grease on the differential.....  just more to clean before we paint!!

Another area there is a leak... what is referred to as "screw C" in the service manual (red arrow).

Not sure what that is at this point, but when removed you can see the "O"-ring is hard as a rock and flat.  Will need to find one that will replace this "O"-ring (see red arrow below).  

Anyone with insight on what "Screw C" does would be awesome? 

I have "O"-rings and hopefully something will fit and take care of the leak.

As to the high heat paint; I've used grill paint some, think it's supposed to be good to 1400 degrees. It does hold up better than regular paint but still burns off manifolds. Recently picked up a can of VHT header paint, haven't tried it yet. Says good to 2000 degrees and has a good reputation, we'll see.

You're doing a great job on this and documenting it well. Keep up the good work!

Thank you!  It has been fun for us to hang and work on this.  We often joke to our better-halves that we are off to "hammer on the tractor" or we are "tractoring" today!!

I would agree, maybe this "Ceramic Black" will actually hold a color.  Ceramic does appear to work on the space-shuttle...... so maybe we can light a cigarette and not burn off the black paint.  I hope to get it running again soon once I rewire and connect everything.   

I'm thinking I try lighting one up!!

 

Thank you Steve.  That make sense now reading that.  What manual is that you posted.  Need to get buy that for reference!!

We will have a new single wire alternator and front lights with the single rear light.  

Want to have the "Key" turn every thing on and the toggle switch with two positions control the engine and alternator.  When the toggle switch is grounded we kill the magneto and remove power from the alternator.  When the toggle switch is on, the alternator is powered (only when the key is on) and the magneto is "hot" and we can start the CA.  That way I can run the lights when the key is on weather or not the toggle switch is on or off.

Thoughts??

With the alternator, had to modify the bracket and drill a hole for the "adjustable" part of the alternator.  Other wise was a simple install.  Awesome job on the bracket from DJ's since it fit perfectly in the tight space.  Much more efficient that making my own.

The radiator with the rubber pads and after connecting all the the hoses and radiator tube.

Radiator tube/drain looks awesome.

Here is the radiator and a side shot of the alternator and air filter installed.

Air filter and connected to the carb.

Finally bolted on the right tire.  Once the left tire is done with paint, will bolt that in place then remove the angle iron supports we have been using for working on the front end.

Next is the wiring, fuel tank then final drive seals.

You keep making progress, that always feels good!

Stupid weather around here, can't string two days together to work on anything.

I may change my CA-1 over to 12v and alternator. Had the generator rebuilt some years back but it periodically quits charging. I can never remember how to 'flash' the stupid thing and getting tired of having to run a battery charger. CA-2 is 12v and alternator but not wired correctly so it doesn't charge right either. Doesn't help that I'm electrically challenged!

Will use the key to power everything (light switch, the terminal 1 of the alternator, hour meter, and volt meter).  The light switch to lights, and then wires to the volt meter and hour meter.  The toggle switch will simply ground out the magneto.  Thus a bit simpler.  As well adding fuses (30 amp for the alternator and 10 amp for the key).

i have a PDF file, but its 23 MB BIG... If you can handle that, send me a PM with your e- mail... I will be gone sunday am for several days.

And cleaning with the drill which worked awesome!!

With the starter arm painted orange.  Here is the "pot metal" after removing the old black paint.

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Then started wiring.  Measured and cut all the wires.  Was easy to put them into the heat resistant braided cable sleeve.  Then made up the ends and used shrink tubes with a heat gun to finish off each connector.  Note the braided sleeve next to the governor rod which passes to the right side and has the wire to power the front lights and the grounding wire which is green, to kill the magneto

Here is the finished alternator.  Connected the charging post to the 10 gauge wire to the battery, and terminal #1 and #2, to the key (via a soldered connection) and to the battery via the charging post, respectively.  Need to secure the  grouped wires to the alternator bracket. 

Here on the right side are the wires for the lights and kill switch.  I am holding the wire for the lights with a finished female end.  Will connect both headlights to this terminal.  Hanging below this is the terminal end of the grounding wire for the magneto kill switch.

Awesome, this is perfect!  Thank you Steve!

Also sanded and put on the final paint for the steering tube. Also reinstalled the support for the tank, which was important since the wires pass through this support.