Keyways in L306 Woods
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks
Forum Description: anything you want to talk about except politics
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=199082
Printed Date: 05 Oct 2024 at 10:29pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Keyways in L306 Woods
Posted By: Ted J
Subject: Keyways in L306 Woods
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2024 at 1:40am
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After watching Thads' thread and video about broaching keyways, I am going to ask a question that has befuddled me since I owned my first Woods L306. I have as yet NEVER had the good luck to dismount the pulleys from the mower. I have broken off MANY 1/4" bolts that are SUPPOSED to push the head of the pulley off the shaft and make them into two parts so you can work on them. Additionally, what grade bolt are these 1/4" bolts supposed to be? I'm sure at this point that there are a good number of guys out there that have the same problem and are looking for a solution. WHAT is the best way to take these pulleys apart without breaking off a bolt or stripping the threads on the pulleys? Hopefully this questions is as clear as,,,,,,,well mud...
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Replies:
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2024 at 4:57am
If you are talking about the 2 piece tapered pulleys with the 3 pusher screws, here's what I do. First soak all in your favorite penetrating oil. Then remove the holding screws, and place them in the removing holes. Next, find a pipe that fits loosely around the pulley center part, but not so big as to be on any spokes of the pulley. Take a BFH, strike the pipe, snug up the bolts and take another swing. Rarely takes many swings... The ideal, in a world where there is no rust or corrosion: https://youtu.be/xWetOouz09M?si=aD8jV3rZ3p3PlJ7C" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/xWetOouz09M?si=aD8jV3rZ3p3PlJ7C If the center remains stuck, oil again, and use a puller to pull just the center. It normally has a split down one side, so occasionally they break in half. If they are really corroded, consider it a blessing if the part splits, cause it saves a lot of fussing and cussing, and a new center ain't all that expensive... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2024 at 8:35am
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The SHOCK or IMPACT works on a lot of problems. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2024 at 7:15pm
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What grade are those 1/4" bolts supposed to be? ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2024 at 8:37pm
I think they are 5 or 8, but I haven't looked at one, in several years... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2024 at 12:02am
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Idea is to put pressure on sleeve , then rap the assembly , little more pressure and another rap . Browning sheaves use their own sleeve , I use to use Taper Locks which had 2 allen screws to tighten and one as a release means . Those fit entirely inside the driven sprocket or sheave . Browning type were exposed and not flush fitting so outer collar could also be pulled with a gear puller ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2024 at 7:29am
| I gave up on mine called to woods dealer they had one in stock. I had already snapped the bolt holding the blade . I cut the shaft with a torch picked up a new shaft and pulley was back together shortly. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2024 at 6:45am
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Dakota Dave wrote: