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180 overcharging???

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=196678
Printed Date: 24 Aug 2025 at 9:51pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: 180 overcharging???
Posted By: Joe Goodwill
Subject: 180 overcharging???
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2023 at 9:48pm
My 1969 180 with rebuilt injection pump and starter is running nice and wow does it start quick now.
Amp meter stays at +40 all day at anything over idle. It used to run up that high then slowly move down to near zero as the batteries charged.
Batteries test good and hold a charge.
Is this a regulator issue??



Replies:
Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2023 at 9:53pm
Originally posted by Joe Goodwill Joe Goodwill wrote:

My 1969 180 with rebuilt injection pump and starter is running nice and wow does it start quick now.
Amp meter stays at +40 all day at anything over idle. It used to run up that high then slowly move down to near zero as the batteries charged.
Batteries test good and hold a charge.
Is this a regulator issue??


Usually yes, and it will cook, or boil your battery(s) dry on short order.


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That's All Folks!


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2023 at 10:40pm
with the engine off, does the gauge set at Zero ? ... with engine off and lights on, does the gauge read -5 to -8 ? ... if so, the gauge is probably right and the regulator is bad.

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2023 at 6:33am
Probably a bad regulator, but before you replace it check all your electrical connections, especially grounds. A bad ground is often the cause of a regulator malfunction.


Posted By: Macon Rounds
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2023 at 7:58am
All good advice above...

Start with the easiest thing first.

Check static voltage
"engine not running"
and again with engine running.

Very well could be just bad indication.


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The Allis "D" Series Tractors, Gravely Walk behind Tractors, Cowboy Action Shooting !!!!!!! And Checkmate


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2023 at 8:13am
welcome back Macon !!

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: Macon Rounds
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2023 at 8:23am
Thanks Steve.

The email I used for this site was "let's just say"

out of order. Ha ha !

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The Allis "D" Series Tractors, Gravely Walk behind Tractors, Cowboy Action Shooting !!!!!!! And Checkmate


Posted By: Joe Goodwill
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2023 at 1:10pm
The gauge does read negative with lights on and engine off. I believe it is reading accurately. I tested the voltage with the engine running it is constant about 14.3 even after running for half an hour. I believe it should cut back to about 13.7??
Thanks for that good replies this site is as always amazing. I have a few loads of manure to haul then I will get it back in the shop and figure this out.


Posted By: Macon Rounds
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2023 at 2:10pm
Let us know what you find..

Always good to put it in the old info bucket.

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The Allis "D" Series Tractors, Gravely Walk behind Tractors, Cowboy Action Shooting !!!!!!! And Checkmate


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2023 at 3:50pm
Unplug the single wire inside the small square plug on the alternator. If it quits charging altogether, you have a bad regulator.


Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2023 at 6:08pm
Originally posted by Joe Goodwill Joe Goodwill wrote:

...the voltage with the engine running it is constant about 14.3 even after running for half an hour. I believe it should cut back to about 13.7?...


14.3 Volts on a 12 Volt system is not drastically high, but a continuous 40 amps into the battery is.

I am not familiar with this particular alternator/regulator, but most of them do not reduce the voltage after running a while; this would require additional circuitry or perhaps some sort of temperature compensation.

I am curious as to just exactly what is going on here.


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2023 at 6:35pm
We always considered 13.5 to 14.5 volts normal for automotive applications with engine running and revved up a bit - 1000 or 1200 rpm. And 12.8 or 12.6 when shut off.


Posted By: Joe Goodwill
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2023 at 10:54pm
This afternoon while I finished my manure spreading operation the charging system appeared to operate normally for the first time this year. I guess all the advice on here fixed it without me touching it!
Possibly a ground wire or loose connection as I did have the hood over the dash off a few days ago.
Sometimes things just work out!


Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2023 at 5:55am
It will probably show up again.About the same as my gas Oliver 1550,replaced the original alternator and regulator with a one wire alternator from DB Electric,been working fine ever since.


Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2023 at 8:07am
Originally posted by Ed (Ont) Ed (Ont) wrote:

We always considered 13.5 to 14.5 volts normal for automotive applications with engine running and revved up a bit - 1000 or 1200 rpm. And 12.8 or 12.6 when shut off.


Yup.
That's what was so puzzling about this issue; 14.3 volts shouldn't be able to push 40 amps into a good fully charged battery.

A battery that has enough charge to start the engine quickly as the OP stated is not heavily discharged. After an hour of running with a steady 40 amps going in, a good battery will be fully charged and 14.3 volts won't push anywhere near 40 amps into it.

The ammeter only reads what goes into or out of the battery.

Does this system have a separate regulator or is it internal to the alternator? If it is separate, I would try cleaning the grounding places.

Puzzling. Confused


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2023 at 6:07pm
Uncle used to have a 170 that we had problems with in the busy season , turned off the key for a while so it wouldnt cook the battery- worked



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