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CA Rear Rim Change

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=196487
Printed Date: 16 Sep 2024 at 5:31am
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Topic: CA Rear Rim Change
Posted By: 1955CA
Subject: CA Rear Rim Change
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2023 at 7:58pm
Just wanted to ask some advice before I move forward. The rear rims have been rotten on my CA for years, but I kept using it until they finally collapsed a couple weeks ago.

I have new power adjust rims for it but need to get these apart. I got everything lose, except the locks. I currently have them soaked in Shop Stufff (a canola based penetrating lubricant), and Krown penetrating oil.

I don't have the tool for them and as you can see, one of the square nubs was already broke off when I got the tractor.
Sorry, I don't know all the correct terminology for each of these parts, so bear with me.

So what would be my next move? Should I apply heat? And if so, where?



Replies:
Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2023 at 7:59pm
Another shot.


Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2023 at 8:12pm
Originally posted by 1955CA 1955CA wrote:

Just wanted to ask some advice before I move forward. The rear rims have been rotten on my CA for years, but I kept using it until they finally collapsed a couple weeks ago.

I have new power adjust rims for it but need to get these apart. I got everything lose, except the locks. I currently have them soaked in Shop Stufff (a canola based penetrating lubricant), and Krown penetrating oil.

I don't have the tool for them and as you can see, one of the square nubs was already broke off when I got the tractor.
Sorry, I don't know all the correct terminology for each of these parts, so bear with me.

So what would be my next move? Should I apply heat? And if so, where?

I recently put new rims on mine.  At least that bad.  I just used penetrant soak for a few days then careful hammering.  Didn't damage anything.  Even got the locks apart.  I put new 12 inch rims and 13.6 tires.  Looks mean.  I can't wait till it actually runs :)  Brother just took block and crank to machine shop.


Posted By: DMac
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2023 at 8:19pm
put a block of wood on the center and hit it with sledge hammer you knock the center out of the rim and the locks will come off.  When i had frozen locks I literally put them in my wood stove for a couple hours then took them out let them cool off a minute or two then worked them free while in a vise. I know it all sounds quite crude but i did 3 sets that way 


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2023 at 8:26pm
Lay the wheel on the ground, on a clean sheet of plywoor, or tarp (easy to find the parts, thataway, especially the rail followers). Then give the center a couple taps between the clamps, all should fall away fairly easily.  If not put some more penetrant in th clamp, and hit it again, later.

As for the clamps, themselves, watch this video:

https://youtu.be/l2qXT3GGc5w" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/l2qXT3GGc5w

On edit, I see one of the square heads has already been snapped off, Not real sure, but you may be able to weld a nut on it. Square ones are prone to snapping, more so than the hex ones.  I always try to get them moving in and out, before trying to twist them...Wink 


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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2023 at 8:43pm
Glad I asked here now. Thanks all. So I should be able to hammer the center out? 
I tried just easy, and it didn't. I thought maybe I HAD to get the locks undone.

You can see where I got the wedges moving, by the break in the paint, but that's as far as I got.

So is everything pretty tough? Can I just put a wood block on the center and pound on it?

I did read that trick on this forum about putting them in the woodstove overnight.

That one that is broke off, can they still be bought new?


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2023 at 8:46pm
On edit, I see one of the square heads has already been snapped off, Not real sure, but you may be able to weld a nut on it. Square ones are prone to snapping, more so than the hex ones.  I always try to get them moving in and out, before trying to twist them...Wink 
[/QUOTE]

Move them in and out before twisting? So do I just tap on the square heads with a hammer to loosen them up?


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2023 at 9:02pm
Thanks for the video DIYDave!!
That was very helpful.


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2023 at 9:04pm
You may want to put a socket over them, hammer on the socket.  Doesn't matter what size or square or hex, as long as it protects the head from mushrooming.  Hammer from front and back, alternating, add penetrating oil as needed. sometimes it takes an hour per clamp, sometimes more, to get them moving.  Once you get the front-back movement, then try twisting. When you get the front-back movement, then you can pull the snap ring off the back, allowing more penetrant in...Wink

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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2023 at 9:08pm
I gotta get the poor old girl looking as good as the Ford.


Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2023 at 8:30am
I have some spare eccentric's if you need one.
Leon B  MO


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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2023 at 8:45am
I've got 2-3 buckets FULL of them eccentrics, off my D-14s..
they're yours if you want them
free of course...

for some 'silly' reason you can't stuff 4200 sqft of treasures into a 200 sqft garage...
Jay



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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2023 at 11:40am
Originally posted by 1955CA 1955CA wrote:

Glad I asked here now. Thanks all. So I should be able to hammer the center out? 
I tried just easy, and it didn't. I thought maybe I HAD to get the locks undone.

You can see where I got the wedges moving, by the break in the paint, but that's as far as I got.

So is everything pretty tough? Can I just put a wood block on the center and pound on it?

I did read that trick on this forum about putting them in the woodstove overnight.

That one that is broke off, can they still be bought new?

I used a flat end punch or a bolt a little smaller in diameter so as not to damage the outer edge.  I didn't have to use any heat.  I did have to hit pretty hard.  This was after 30 years of sitting in the weather.


Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2023 at 12:36pm
A 6x6 block right in the middle, a sledge hammer and swing like your trying to ring the bell at a carnival. Just don't miss.
Leon B Mo

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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2023 at 7:10pm
Thanks a lot everyone! I'm just letting everything soak for a day or two.

I appreciate that offer Jay and Leon. I definitely need one to replace that one with the stud broke off. Not sure if I will need any more or if I will be able to save them all.

But I'm in Soviet Canukistan (Canada) so I don't know much about shipping stuff, but I will definitely have to pay you for that because it probably won't be cheap. 


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2023 at 7:23pm
jay just lives around the corner from Ya !! Wink

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2023 at 8:02pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

jay just lives around the corner from Ya !! Wink

He just contacted me!

Perfect, this Allis needs to continue living!


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 5:38pm
So I sprayed everything with Shop Stufff, a penetrating fluid made from canola and they have been sitting for the last week while I was off driving my other tractor in a couple parades.

So I had some time today so I laid them down, gave a whack with a big hammer like you all suggested and everything fell right out!

Tomorrow I'll just the wedges in the vise and see if I can get them apart.Thumbs Up


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 5:39pm
That was my biggest fear was that those centers were going to be rotten but all good!


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 5:42pm
Should I do like all the other scammers out there and list my rims for sale?

"Mint shape, just needs paint"  Big smile


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 5:54pm
Cut the rails out before you scrap the rims...Wink

-------------
Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 5:55pm
RAN WHEN PARKED !!!............. Wink


another option to get "stuck rusted parts apart" is to use Electrolysis.... a 5 gallon plastic bucket with water / soda , and a battery charger can do a lot in 2-3 days.


-------------
Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 6:02pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

RAN WHEN PARKED !!!............. Wink


another option to get "stuck rusted parts apart" is to use Electrolysis.... a 5 gallon plastic bucket with water / soda , and a battery charger can do a lot in 2-3 days.

"No low ballers. They don't make these every day. I KNOW WHAT I GOT!" 

Big smileBig smile


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 6:06pm
Originally posted by DiyDave DiyDave wrote:

Cut the rails out before you scrap the rims...Wink

Oh ya? Would anybody have a use for them?


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 6:07pm
The sad thing is I've had worse...which explains the 2 pails of parts I have here....

now if the other rim is just as bad you could cut and weld and get one good rim....



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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 6:13pm
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

The sad thing is I've had worse...which explains the 2 pails of parts I have here....

now if the other rim is just as bad you could cut and weld and get one good rim....


This is the other one.



Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 6:18pm
So next dumb question. Will it be easier to assemble the hub  back into the new rims and 
put on tractor one piece like I took them off?

I've never dealt with these power adjust wheels before.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 6:20pm
I have "patched" several rims over the years with good success.... But i think i will PASS on that one ! LOL

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 6:59pm
Once you have the eccentrics apart, cleaned and in working order, unlock the eccentric. If possible have a helper hold the wheel center and start loosely assembling the clamps in place in the rails. Once all 4 are loosely bolted In place, start tightening them evenly all the way around. They will become tighter on the rails. It will require the power of the tractor to slide them on the rails at this point. Once you have them where you want them, turn the eccentric to the right-until it hits the stop. Once all 4 are locked down the wheel will be locked in place. Make sure you put a locking collar on each side of a clamp to make sure it doesn’t slip.

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 7:25pm
Perfect. Thanks!


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 7:30pm
I saw  somewhere, a guy use a round bucket of the right height, to hold the center up off the floor, then assemble the bits and pieces. I KNOW that's how I did one for my D-14, 20 decades ago....
good news is a CA rim/tire is lighter than a D-14 !


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 7:33pm
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

I saw  somewhere, a guy use a round bucket of the right height, to hold the center up off the floor, then assemble the bits and pieces. I KNOW that's how I did one for my D-14, 20 decades ago....
good news is a CA rim/tire is lighter than a D-14 !

Now that you mentioned that, I now remember reading about that trick on this forum a few years ago. Thanks.


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2023 at 7:42pm
yeah, I'm gettin old at 70 but still remember some things.......


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2023 at 6:45am

I, too, use the 5 gallon pail trick, but I also lay the 'tire and rim' assembly on 3 pieces of 8 X 8 Post.

That way you can reach under the tire to install the attaching bolts for the eccentric body.

You can easily slide the eccentric over the rail and down in to position on the wheel.

G


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2023 at 7:29am
Great tips. I appreciate it everyone.

Better to ask here rather than beat myself up figuring it out the hard way. LOL


Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2023 at 12:18pm
Originally posted by 1955CA 1955CA wrote:

So I sprayed everything with Shop Stufff, a penetrating fluid made from canola and they have been sitting for the last week while I was off driving my other tractor in a couple parades.

So I had some time today so I laid them down, gave a whack with a big hammer like you all suggested and everything fell right out!

Tomorrow I'll just the wedges in the vise and see if I can get them apart.Thumbs Up

Looks exactly like mine when I took them apart.  They looked like new when I got finished with them (other than the pitting beneath the locks).


Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2023 at 12:20pm
Originally posted by 1955CA 1955CA wrote:

Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

I saw  somewhere, a guy use a round bucket of the right height, to hold the center up off the floor, then assemble the bits and pieces. I KNOW that's how I did one for my D-14, 20 decades ago....
good news is a CA rim/tire is lighter than a D-14 !

Now that you mentioned that, I now remember reading about that trick on this forum a few years ago. Thanks.

I did have a little difficulty getting them back together.  Was a very tight fit.  One was easier than the other so I thought the tolerances on the rim was a little off on one.


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2023 at 4:50pm
Originally posted by 1955CA 1955CA wrote:

Originally posted by DiyDave DiyDave wrote:

Cut the rails out before you scrap the rims...Wink

Oh ya? Would anybody have a use for them?

I know I had a set welded onto new non PA rims, it was the most economical solution at the time...Wink


-------------
Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2023 at 7:24pm
Well I know I won't have a use for them. I'm pretty sure my new rims are going to last me the rest of my years anyway, LOL

I'm not putting anything but air in them.


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2023 at 5:31pm
So again, I haven't had time to try and unseize all my rim lock parts. I will eventually, but want my tractor mobile.

I was looking at all the new rim locks available and saw these. They are shown as out of stock here, but have found them at other suppliers.

My question now is.....do these not need circlips and the rectangular blocks (Eccentric Pin Block) that sit on the pins like my original ones do? Or do I need to still use those?


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2023 at 6:15pm
That is the lock not the eccentric. It goes through the hole in the rail to prevent spinning wheel on rails.


Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2023 at 7:30pm
Originally posted by 1955CA 1955CA wrote:

Well I know I won't have a use for them. I'm pretty sure my new rims are going to last me the rest of my years anyway, LOL

I'm not putting anything but air in them.

I'm keeping the old rims.  Not in good shape, but repairable with some effort.  I thought I might use them for duals in the future...or not.


Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2023 at 7:32pm
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

That is the lock not the eccentric. It goes through the hole in the rail to prevent spinning wheel on rails.

Ah ha, that's what it looks like...I need a couple of those.


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2023 at 7:35pm
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

That is the lock not the eccentric. It goes through the hole in the rail to prevent spinning wheel on rails.

Oh okay. I'm still learning this thing. So that is about all I see listed new. So guess I will have to salvage what I can and get other used parts.


Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2023 at 9:26pm
I put my wheel centers back on my D17 rims today. Had some help to make it easier. Bolted the first clamp on the wheel center. Had the wheel standing up. Placed the block(parts manual calls it a block) in the clamp(my parts manual calls it the body) and laid it on the rail at the bottom. Slid the next clamp on the rail opposite of the first one and installed the bolts loosely on the wheel center. Placed the other clamps on and and again loosely tightened the bolts. Slid the wheel center up against the stop and tightened all bolts. Once in place I tightened down all eccentrics(manual calls it pin).

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD


Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2023 at 7:55am
I do assemble the eccentrics, wedges,hub and rim on the floor face up. Stem hole up on the rim. Reach though the hub center to poke bolts through.
Leon B

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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2023 at 9:57am
I finally got everything apart! Went better than expected.

Three of my eccentric pins are pretty good shape, but three are pretty scabby and wore. And one has the head broke off.
But at least I'm relieved I got everything apart.


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2023 at 9:59am
And here's the blocks. They all look pretty good.


Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2023 at 12:18pm
Put the center back on the tractor . One eccentric straight up put tractor in gear so it wont move roll the rim over and put one rail on the eccentric jack tractor up till rim hangs. Install the rest loosely. Tighten all to center. Tighten bottom eccentric turn wheel 90 deg and tighten turn 180 and tighten bottom eccentric. They should all be tight now.


Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2023 at 1:48pm
Originally posted by 1955CA 1955CA wrote:

I finally got everything apart! Went better than expected.

Three of my eccentric pins are pretty good shape, but three are pretty scabby and wore. And one has the head broke off.
But at least I'm relieved I got everything apart.

Can't tell 100% but some of mine looked almost that bad but I was able to chip and grind them back into shape with some effort and they were smooth as butter and locked up tight.  I would recommend new though.  I really wanted to keep it maximally original so was a little obsessive about making it work :)


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2023 at 4:23pm
As long as the cams hold the clamps tight, that's all you need. Also, smear some anti seize lube on the cams, to keep them mobile.  I'd start looking for some cams that match up with the square heads, or get all of them to hex heads, that way you only have to have 1 wrench, to adjust...Wink

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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2023 at 8:39am
I'm curious after looking at pics I have seen posted of other CA rear wheels.

Why do some of you seem to have all four wedges with eccentric pins and I only have 3 eccentrics and one of these on each of my wheels?


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2023 at 8:40am
I'm still waiting to get everything back together. Had to order new tires. The old ones were as rotten as the rims once I had them dismounted.


Posted By: sparky
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2023 at 3:38pm
All of my CA’s had 3 clamps and 1 hanger. Put the hanger on top and then assemble the other three clamps. 

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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!


Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2023 at 5:57am
Originally posted by sparky sparky wrote:

All of my CA’s had 3 clamps and 1 hanger. Put the hanger on top and then assemble the other three clamps. 


Pretty sure both of mine are just like Sparky describes.


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2023 at 7:16am
So what is that in the pic I posted above of the Rim Stop And Bolt? Or is that for a different model?

And I notice one rail in each of my rear rims has a series of holes along it's length.


Posted By: sparky
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2023 at 10:30am
The rim stop is in your 10’th paragraph down. The rim stop bolt goes in one of the holes in the rail according to how wide you have the rear width set.

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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2023 at 12:09pm
Originally posted by sparky sparky wrote:

The rim stop is in your 10’th paragraph down. The rim stop bolt goes in one of the holes in the rail according to how wide you have the rear width set.

Okay. My tractor had none of those. Only the one pictured above that has no pin or bolt in it.

Is it better to have the one with the locking bolt or does it really matter?


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2023 at 12:30pm
I just got a present today from Jaybmiller! A box full of free gloves!!!


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2023 at 12:34pm
And in them was a full set of hex head eccentrics!! I can't thank him enough!!

What a super person! He wouldn't even let me send him anything for them. 

He just helped save another Allis.

Got my new rear rims in the truck ready to head to the tire shop tomorrow to get new rubber mounted while I am at work this week.

Thanks again Jay!!!


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2023 at 8:16pm
Got the new tires mounted on the new rims. Now just gotta get time to put it all back together.


Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2023 at 12:16pm
Nice!


Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2023 at 5:16pm
Our CA also only has 3 esentrics on each side. Honestly didn’t pay attention to that since dad spun them in 25 years ago when he mounted a L306 belly mower on it. When I walked by it today it reminded me to look. Yep, just 3 on each side.

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2023 at 5:44pm
Well found an easy way to hold everything up while I pieced it all back together. Went together with no issues! 
Except one, which was my own stupidity because this is the first time I have worked on these. I left the retainer circlips off, thinking I'd put them on last, then realized there was no way to get at them with the wedges bolted on. So off they came again one at a time, LOL

One question though. Maybe it's just due to the wedge blocks and pins being wore different, but when I tightened the eccentric pins they are all not pointed at the same point of rotation. Does that matter?

And I couldn't find proper paint match anywhere in my town, so gave up and just put it back together. I gotta paint the whole tractor down the road anyway.


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2023 at 5:46pm
But at least she's finally back on her own feet!


Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2023 at 5:32am
As long as the eccentrics are tight, that is all that matters.


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2023 at 11:22am
It (they) look GREAT!
Isn't it fun learning on here?  LOTS of very smart people.


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2023 at 11:39am
Yes sir Ted. The world is changing (and not for the better in my opinion) so we have to keep some of this old history alive.

I'm lucky to have all the knowledge here as I keep picking away at this CA.


Posted By: 52AllisCA
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2023 at 4:00pm
Looks Great!! gotta keep that history alive is no lie, love seein' it . great job man!


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2023 at 5:18pm
Originally posted by 52AllisCA 52AllisCA wrote:

Looks Great!! gotta keep that history alive is no lie, love seein' it . great job man!

Thanks 52AllisCA!


Posted By: adamblantz
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2023 at 6:14pm
Hi i am adam and new here and to tractors in general. I have a 1939-42 m crawler and are looking for some answer folks. I will be renovating this super cool olsy or die trying. Se will turn over and magneto delivers a spark. The radiator leaks. I found a carb rebuild kit from yesterday’s tractor but they didn’t have a manold or other gaskets. Nor did the three other places i called. I know i can cut some myself (or silicone) but would rather do it right. Any advice on this? Also does the orange paint have a name or number? Where can i buy vintage decals? …and so many other questions


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2023 at 6:28pm
Welcome Adam... you came to the right site !!!.... But you posted under someone elses topic on rims and in the FARM SECTION.... Small crawlers were used on the FARM, but you might be better answers by posting in the CONSTRUCTION area...

go here and start your own topic ... like   "M Crawler parts needed"  and see if you get more help.

https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/construction-and-other-equipment_forum3.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/construction-and-other-equipment_forum3.html



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Like them all, but love the "B"s.



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