220 engine rebuild
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=195693
Printed Date: 24 Nov 2024 at 4:47am
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Topic: 220 engine rebuild
Posted By: JM185
Subject: 220 engine rebuild
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2023 at 10:04pm
| Hello Everyone, New member here and was glad to find a place with so much AC knowledge. I am also new to posting on forums in general. I'm not sure if a new thread was right for this or if I should have posted this on the 210 discussion. I'm starting the re-assembly process on a 220 engine and in looking for information I found a post on this site regarding the 210 engine overhaul from Jim's Automotive and Machine, and a lot of good conversation. The engine I'm working on is an exact experience of what he had, fresh overhaul and trashed pistons and liners. The parts I have to do the current overhaul are from Reliance. The manual i have for reference is a Jensales reprint with AC-S-2-20 on the cover. In taking this one step at a time I am now to checking piston to cylinder clearance. The book calls for minimum .0065. I'm getting .0035 out of the box. The information supplied with the kit was not of much help and just stated to inspect parts and install per OEM instructions. I'm planning on having the liners honed for more clearance. This tractor is going to see field use so my goal is longevity and reliability. What would be a good number to achieve this? Sorry to be so long winded. I will have more questions along the way and I also welcome any questions on what went on with this the first time around. |
Replies:
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2023 at 10:16pm
| Welcome to the forum. It’s interesting that you’re having similar issues to the video. Goodluck. |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2023 at 5:30am
|
Make sure the sleeve spins freely in the bore without the o-rings. Also, I was told to use vegetable oil to lube the o rings to minimize swelling that motor oil can cause. If you're getting these measurements with the parts not installed, then I am not sure. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2023 at 8:10am
|
Welcome to the Forum and great job on your first first post. I've never worked on these big ones, but I'm sure some knowledable people will be along to help |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2023 at 8:48am
|
Jim's auto one was failed due to the injection shop misassembling the injection pump leaving him lost on timing marks. Not sure why so many shops struggle with the DC pumps. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2023 at 10:01am
| the discussion on the clearance etc is currently on page 17 .... worth a read |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2023 at 1:34pm
| Thank you all for replying. This project will take me a bit and I will have more questions and updates along the way. I will look over the clearances discussion on p 17 before going any further. The liners are not installed yet. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2023 at 7:24pm
| Best anti-scoring of piston plans go like this. #1. Minimum of .007" piston skirt to sleeve clearance. #2. Minimal vegetable oil on the sleeve Orings with nothing in between the Orings and wipe the block lower bore with vege oil on your finger for a very light coat. #3. Orings where they belong...orange on the bottom and black above the orange. #4. Block cleaned up good so a bare sleeve can be turned while installed in the block is the most ideal. #5. 15W-40 engine oil. #6. Oil level can actually be up to one gallon overfull to splash around better. This idea comes from the 8000 series FWA tractors. Apparently with FWA some operators were taking tractors up in the steepest hills possible and they lost some engines (under warranty) because of that. A-C issued a service bulletin to overfill the crankcase one gallon for this scenario. Well, if you could do that to an 8000 series, why couldn't you do it to a 220 or 7030 ??? #7. Running without a muffler lowers exhaust temps 100 degrees under full load. That's 100 less degrees on the piston tops. Also, use new connecting rod bolts for insurance. If a conn rods piston has seen heavy scoring, you might want to check the rods for big end roundness and magnaflux for any cracks.That's about it. Good luck. |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2023 at 3:19pm
| Thank you for all the information. I will be taking the rods to be checked and get liners honed for clearance. One more thing I'm unclear on is flipping the rods around when installing them. Is this to put the solid side of the bearing where more support is needed? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2023 at 6:17pm
| If the rod bearing shells are the "slotted" design (for the newer 3-ring piston engines) the conn rod is to be turned around. This is per an Allis-Chalmers service bulletin !!! |
Posted By: JAMSI
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2023 at 1:03pm
|
Hello JM185, This is Jimmie from Jim's Automotive Machine Shop. That old 210 I had to do over now has 160 acres behind it of pulling an 11 shank chisel and has done great! When we went back together the second time with another Reliance kit, I was not concerned about the tighter piston to cylinder wall clearance as I believe the aluminum alloy now in use in the pistons has changed greatly since the early 70's and does not expand as the early alloys did. We did not give it anymore clearance than just the way the pistons and sleeves came out of the box. What did concern me was the piston ring end gap. I had not measured the end gap the first time around but when I measured the end gap during the second build, I found the end gaps to be very inconsistent and many right on the tight side of spec. I filed my end gaps and made all of them in the middle of factory spec. This combination seems to be working for us. Everyone has their own opinions of what works, just saying what you saw in our video and what I have told you here has worked for me. Good luck with your build and don't hesitate to call me if you would like to discuss this further. 970-454-3477
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2023 at 2:14pm
| For those of us who have been "burned" over the years by this tight skirt clearance spec, (in non-piston cooled engines) I know how the conversation would go with whomever the piston/sleeve supplier was, IF there ever was a failure. They'd simply tell you that they did nothing wrong and you must have done something wrong in assembly or operation. They would wash their hands of the problem, leaving you with no recourse. Or if for some miracle they did give you another set of pistons and sleeves, you'd eat the labor and gaskets etc, etc and be provided with the same tight clearance parts to boot !! They've got their money and you've got a failed engine overhaul with junk parts. I have seen this piston scoring happen hundreds of hours AFTER an overhaul was completed !! well after any implied warranty of the parts !! Let the buyer beware. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2023 at 1:11pm
| When you say you believe today's alloys expand less than days of old, what do you base this on? Not saying you are wrong, just wonder how/what you know for fact. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2023 at 1:27pm
| I got in on a failure about 15 yrs ago on a 301 twin-turbo pulling engine. The customer/long time friend had always been using USED A-C pistons from older engines that he had bought cheap. This one particular winter, he bought a complete set of brand new pistons and made no other changes to his set-up. They didn't last only half the summers season and had scored above the top ring area. All dimensions had been kept the same from the old pistons to the brand new really shiny aluminum pistons. We reverted back to old school metallurgy and had no problems after that. Always figured the new "metallurgy" couldn't withstand 1500 degree exhaust temps where the old ones would survive that. I'm not going to say who the vendor/supplier was because I don't remember for sure, it's been that many years ago. What I do know is the new ones that failed were much prettier and very shiny compared to the old school A-C pistons that were pretty dull in appearance. |
Posted By: JAMSI
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2023 at 4:47pm
| You have brought up a very good point. We are basing our opinion on what we have generally seen in the engine rebuilding industry over the last 40 years. Piston to cylinder wall clearances have overall become tighter and tighter with the ever-changing alloys used in pistons that allow for more controlled heat expansion. But you are right, we have no data to prove our point, so we are going to do an experiment to either prove us right or prove us wrong. I still have the old original A-C pistons and I have the first set of Reliance pistons from my failed engine. We will cut them apart to see what if any steel struts they may or may not have within. Then we are going to do precise measurements of the expansion at various temperatures. We will document what we find in a YouTube video for the world to see. Stay tuned, I excited to see what we find. |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2023 at 5:31pm
| This is turning into quite a learning experience. The more I measure the more questions I have. Any thoughts on wrist pins? New ones are measuring .0007 to .001 under what my book says and rod bushings are worn putting the clearance on the high side or more. I don't have the numbers with me at the moment. Reliance had no new bushings in stock. The bushings in the rods have dark spots in them in the top and bottom. Cross hatch is still good on the sides. Does anyone know if the bushings through agco have finish stock in the bore to fit them to the pins after pressing in? So far, through agco has been the only option I can find. I do plan on getting new rod bolts and having the rods inspected. |
Posted By: JAMSI
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2023 at 7:16pm
| I can get my hands on a set of six FP Diesel (Federal Mogul) pin bushings for about $100 including freight to you. They will have extra stock allowing them to be bored to the correct size to fit your pins and to the correct center-to-center rod length. The Agco bushings would also need to be done the same way. Almost all engine manufacturers require machine work to properly fit piston pin bushings. Give me a call if you would like us to get a set of FP Diesel bushings for you. |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2023 at 10:30am
| Thank you for the information on the bushings. I decided to get them through agco beings I already had an order going and can get everything in one shot. I found no issues with the liner fitment in the block. Next up is getting parts to the machine shop to get checked and fitted. Another issue I'm not sure about is in regards to the camshaft. It is drilled and tapped in the front end but there was no bolt in it. The picture in my book only shows it with a center drill hole. Did they have issues with the press fit of the gear not being enough to keep it in place? If it does require a bolt, what are the specs for the proper one? |
Posted By: JAMSI
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2023 at 11:08am
| Dr Allis posted a response to the video we did on my engine stating the camshaft needs to be updated and a 4" long grade 8 bolt installed to retain the gear. I'm assuming A-C had issues with the gear either coming off or breaking the nose of the camshaft. This long bolt would certainly solve those issues. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2023 at 11:28am
| Breaking off the camshaft nose from hydraulic pump drive pressure. Never seen one broken that had the improved design. |
Posted By: allisdoctor
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2023 at 1:29pm
| the new camshaft with the 1/2 key and bolt is designed to put the nose of the camshaft in compression to add strength and prevent breakage. |
Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2023 at 6:03pm
|
I think the various high silicon pistons materials expand 15-27% less than low Si pistons. That is what I remember from researching around a few months ago during the JAMSI rebuild series. That was fascinating to read/watch. Jamsi also has a video about connecting rods-bushing install, lap, trim, and also correct twist and bend. I would check ring end gap before and after liner install, knowing that the o-ring can pinch the liner bore size down some. Be careful, engine rebuilding is a minefield.
|
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2023 at 9:37pm
| Is there a washer involved with the camshaft bolt to capture the gear as well or is it strictly a bolt for tensioning the camshaft nose? I just want to make sure I understand this correctly. I have new rod bolts coming and will check the roundness of the big end with the new bolts torqued to spec. As far as piston material goes, all my book says is they are an aluminum alloy with a tin coating. Regarding the discussion of piston clearance and the muddy waters of what the aftermarket parts are made of, is there a general guideline of what too loose is? I feel knowing the limit on that may help others in deciding what to choose on their rebuilds. A saying a read once that I believe was an article on bearing clearance, "if it's too loose, you know. If its too tight, everyone knows." I prefer to error on the safe side but that has limits too. I just thought some insight in that area would be helpful. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2023 at 9:47pm
| The camshaft bolt update includes a very heavy/thick flat washer. The bolt is 7/16" x about 4 inches long grade 8. I doubt you'll find anyone who'll be willing to drill and tap the old camshaft to do this, but maybe. Source a new cam from Abiline Machine for a 7030/7040 and buy the bolt and washer from AGCO if you choose to update. |
Posted By: JAMSI
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2023 at 10:41pm
| When I did my 210 engine, the camshaft was already drilled and had the long bolt and washer already installed. I removed the gear and then I sent the camshaft and lifters to Delta Camshaft in Tacoma WA to be reground. It and the lifters came back looking and performing like new. I think they could also drill and tap the end of the camshaft for the bolt. This would be much cheaper than a new camshaft and lifters and you would still have your original "Made in the USA" camshaft and lifters - not something from offshore. Give them a call, they are good people: 800-562-5500. The pistons from Reliance are definitely not tin coated. How much clearance is too much? In my opinion I'd say anything over .002" extra will greatly reduce the life of the engine. But as you stated about the bearing clearance, it will be much less likely to come back with a scoring issue. Would my engine have not scored if it had extra clearance? Maybe. But the root cause of the problem would have still been there and would have eventually surfaced somewhere else. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2023 at 8:35am
|
I've said it before, and I'll say it again for those who keep forgetting, the problem with yours was the injection pump timing was set wrong upon pump rebuild, causing the installer to not be able to time it correctly. It wasn't just off 180*, but an odd number like 170 or 190*. 180 would allow timing to #6 like you all did, and it would be fine. Yours was too far advanced, and nozzles spraying over top of piston puts the fire out on the top of the top ring. The new aftermarket cams seem to be fine, I've bought several and sent in for regrinding into a puller profile, and work great. I've always thought the early non bolted ones were made of a lower grade of cast iron too, but maybe I'm wrong there. I'm not a metallurgist lol! The thick washer places the front of the gear flush with front of the cam, allowing the proper clearance between the thrust plate and back of gear. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2023 at 8:34pm
|
I find this discussion very interesting. 20 years ago I bought a 220 with a fresh rebuild from an estate. The owner never heard it run. Long story but I swapped this engine into a 210. I have used this tractor very little because after about 30 minutes of light field work it drops a hundred RPM or so and seems to labor. Was told that it could be a fuel issue but this discussion has me wondering about piston clearance and/or ring gap. Nephew has opened l his own engine machine shop rebuilding everything from tractor to race, to heavy truck engines. He is meticulous. Recently rebuilt a 9L JD engine with a factory kit and still found a ring or two with to little end gap. I'm starting to wonder if I should have him teardown my 210 engine to check the clearances. I don't have much work for it since there are a few other big orange horses in the barn. ------------- Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2023 at 1:49pm
|
I don't think we had as many of these problems with parts quality 20 years ago. I'm betting it's a fuel issue. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2023 at 3:11pm
| Too tight of skirt or ring gap won't pull down a 100 RPM. It pulls down and STALLS !! all in about 2 or 3 seconds. |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2023 at 8:57pm
| Thank you all for the feedback and continuing in this discussion. This is going to take me a while due to it being a side project. My camshaft is drilled and tapped but to my knowledge there wasn't a bolt in it. I didn't take the engine apart so I can't be positive on that. Can anyone verify if a factory 220 pump was a 4 roller pump and all the other models of that series used 2 roller pumps? I watched the Area Diesel video that was linked in the discussion on JAMSI's engine and i'm not grasping the part about the splines. Are they inside the pump or is it what the pump engages with on the end of the shaft coming out of the gearcase? The engine i'm working on has the tang on the shaft that drives the pump, no splines. I'll get numbers before getting farther into detail on the injection situation because I do have more questions on it but want to get the correct information on here for you. In regards to timing, from what I can see of the remaining marks on the old pistons, about 3/4 of the fuel spray is inside the dish but it does extend slightly onto the top of the piston. Does this sound correct or suspect? |
Posted By: JAMSI
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2023 at 10:48pm
| On my 210 engine, the splines are on what I would call the back end of the pump shaft. They are on the end that extends into the injection pump. Sounds like you have what I would describe as similar to a very large flat blade screwdriver. Can you post some pictures of the spray/burn pattern on the top of your old pistons? I would like to see how they compare to my pistons after the failure. How many of your pistons were scored and how badly? I would like to see pictures of those too. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2023 at 6:37am
| All 210/220 injection pumps are 4-roller "DC" series (DCGFC631) pumps and are static timed at 24 degrees BTDC. The D-21 is also a DC pump but without a timing advance and is static timed at 34 degrees BTDC. The splined injection pump drive shaft cannot be connected incorrectly to the pump unless one would force it together. The internally splined governor weight carrier inside the injection pump is also splined and CAN be assembled wrong without issue. If this is done incorrectly the timing marks in the timing window of the injection pump are wrong and the pump can then be timed incorrectly. |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2023 at 11:35am
| I did get pictures of the pistons but I do not know how to put them in a post. I'll nedd instruction on how to do that. Numbers 1 through 4 were still in good shape but 5 and 6 were trashed. I believe there was ring butting in all cylinders due to all of the liners having varying degrees of scoring. The injection pump from this engine is labeled DBGFC637-11GR. I do know this is not the original unit but i'm not sure what it came off of. It has been overhauled and set to 220 specs. It was initially timed 180 off and was set off of number 6 on the previous installation. It was then sent back to be evaluated after the engine failure. The information I got was that it checked out fine and they adjusted the timing marks so that this time it will be correct to number one. The injectors were also gone through this time around. |
Posted By: JAMSI
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2023 at 3:33pm
|
WOW! This sounds like the exact set of circumstances that led to my engine failure. All of this damage caused by the pump being rebuilt incorrectly and thinking that all will be fine if we just time it off of cylinder number six instead of number one. There is something about these pumps that when they are assembled wrong the timing marks are off by more than the 180 expected degrees.
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2023 at 5:03pm
| DBGFC637-11GR is not a 4-roller/4-plunger 210/220 pump. It is a 2 roller/plunger pump made for a 95 PTO HP engine. I don't have time to get the specific application, but it ain't right. If a 2-roller pump is "turned-up" to make 135 PTO HP, it is delivering the fuel thru too many crankshaft degrees of rotation, which will make exhaust temps higher. This DB style pump would have a flat tang drive shaft, not a fine splined drive shaft. Which is it. ?? EDIT: *** 11GR is a pump for a 200 tractor if the tag on the pump is legit.*** |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2023 at 5:19pm
It is the flat tang drive type. 
|
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2023 at 5:21pm
| I don't know how to change the size of the picture. It;s a miracle I even got it there. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2023 at 5:34pm
| Flat tang drive and 11 GR are a 200 injection pump, not a 210 or 220. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2023 at 7:02am
| A model "DB" series (2-plunger/2-roller)pump with the governor weight retainer assembled wrong is exactly 180 degrees off as it can only be assembled 2 ways. A model "DC" pump's (4-plunger/4-roller) governor weight retainer can be assembled more than 20 ways wrong (I don't remember the exact spline count) and may not be exactly 180 degrees off. When one takes a 95 HP DB pump and magically "turns it up" to (supposedly) deliver 135 HP worth of fuel, the timing mark scribed on the governor weight retainer is now WRONG and timing is actually advanced even tho timing marks are aligned during pump installation. So, if the repair person actually took the time to correctly re-scribe the timing mark due to the overfueled pump settings, the end of injection is more degrees later than the engine designer wanted, causing high exhaust temps. Any way you look at it, a DB pump adjusted to deliver DC fuel output is doing so in toooo many crankshaft degrees of rotation for an engine that has to work for a living. |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2023 at 6:27pm
JAMSI, here is the picture of pistons 5 and 6.
|
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2023 at 7:02pm
| The updated rod bolt kits I got from AGCO are of a 12 point head design and 3/32 longer than the old bolts. Also the length of thread is about 1/2 shorter. I run out of threads at the point the bolt starts to contact the cap. So it's looking like i'll be re-using the bolts I have. The old bolts are of a socket head design and according to the new bolt literature, is a mid production range engine application. Getting back to the pump, were they made in both flat tang and spline drive configurations? Will the drive gear and flat tang shaft from a 301 interchange with a 426? I'm just trying to figure out how it ended up like it is if it's not a possibility it came from the factory this way. After the cost of getting the current pump rebuilt, i'm not sure if buying another is an option, along with the mating shaft. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2023 at 7:19pm
| 426 engines NEVER had the flat tang drive or pump. The parts interchange, yes, but they aren't correct for a 426. Gear from 301 to 426 are different. Throw those old rod bolts away and figure out what's wrong with your new ones. Are they missing a flat washer ?? |
Posted By: JAMSI
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2023 at 8:29pm
|
Hello, When I did my engine, I got the bolts from Schmidt and Sons in Hope KS. They mistakenly sent me 24 bolts as they were packaged 2 per package not one per package. There was one package of bolts that were different, maybe an older design. Seems like they were black oxide in color. The bolts you want to use are actually manufactured by ARP and are stamped as such on the head of the bolt. They are bright steel color and fit perfectly in my rods. I too was replacing the socket head design bolts. As I recall, the ARP bolts neck down in diameter between the threaded area and the 12 point head. I guess I would need to look at what you actually are seeing but when you say you run out of threads, isn't that at the point the bolt necks down in diameter? Does it bottom out on the threaded area or does it still allow the bolt to torque pulling the cap tight? I do not know anything about the pump shaft other than my engine had the splined shaft, not the tang. I do have a couple of 200's and I know they have the tang as you speak of. About your pistons and sleeves. Does the scoring go all the way to the top of the ring travel area and all the way around the cylinder sleeve as mine did? Or do the rings look fine and the scoring is all below the rings, only coming as far up the sleeve as the oil ring and only scored in the areas the skirt is scored? Side note: We spent the last couple of days testing the expansion rate of the original pistons compared to the aftermarket pistons I think both of us have been using. Hopefully we will be posting the results of our testing in the form of a YouTube video very soon. Maybe by Sunday. I'll give you a little spoiler. In our professional opinion, don't hone any extra clearance into the cylinders. Do make sure you have adequate piston ring end gap. Even my original sleeve assemblies did not have more than .004" from the factory. Very similar to how the aftermarket sleeve assemblies come out of the box. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2023 at 9:46pm
JM185... when you download the photo to insert, the next line says "width" "height" ... make that 800 and 600 and you will get the right size..
 ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 12:28pm
Correct pump not in the cards? Did you understand what Doc said about fuel delivered from that pump to make the power you're after?
|
JM185 wrote:Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2023 at 9:03am
| Another thread jogged my memory of past engines and HP ratings. Gleaner combines in that 1970 to 1977 ish time frame used a 301 engine rated at 105 flywheel HP and used the "DB" 2-roller/2-plunger injection pump. Then, basically the same engine was re-rated up to 120 flywheel HP and had the "DC" 4-roller/4-plunger injection pump. ALL 426 engines never used a DB pump, but only the DC and later on the DM-4 (4-roller/4-plunger) Stanadyne injection pumps. |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2023 at 6:02pm
| I have to make a correction on my previous post concerning the rod bolts. They are correct and will work. I had threaded them into the rod by hand and they stopped short. I'm figuring, due to the extra length they are going into previously unused threads and are snug. Carefully using a wrench they went in plenty far enough to do the job. That one is on me. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2023 at 9:21pm
| 2 years ago I had to pull the rods out of my 8070. Got another set of ARP AGCO bolts for reinstallation. One out of the 12 would not thread in by hand. It got quite firm and I quit. Tried different bolt in same hole...no problem. Run a fine thd nut on with same results. Took it back and dealer replaced set which worked fine. Nothing visable to naked eye. Point is ...you could have faulty pieces. |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2023 at 7:03pm
| I was able to get all the bolts in without issue. The rods are off to get magnafluxed and if there are no issues I can proceed with having the machine work done. Does anyone have any pointers on where a good place to source the correct injection pump and shaft it mates to? Am I correct in thinking I can swap the shaft in the gear and not have to get a different one? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2023 at 8:41pm
| Gear accepts both shafts. |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2023 at 8:46pm
| I was able to find the spline shaft for the pump drive. The rods checked out good with no cracks. What are the numbers on the pump I need to be looking for? Also, What is the torque spec for the 7/16 bolt in the end of the camshaft? Once I get the parts back from the machine shop I can get the rotating assembly put together. There will be a bit of a wait until I get all that done. I greatly appreciate all of the help I have received here. I'm not sure if this post is getting too old. Should future updates on this project go in a new post or continue on this one? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2023 at 10:06pm
| 210/220 pump is a DCGFC631 XXXX. Grade 8 camshaft nose bolt is 70 ft lbs I think I remember. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2023 at 10:06am
| i would just add to this thread..... |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2024 at 1:26pm
| I found a core injection pump from a power unit, not sure of the engine model. DCGFC629 2LQ. Will this pump be correct? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2024 at 1:39pm
| Not for a 220. 631 not 629 |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2024 at 1:42pm
|
It can be made to work good for it though, upon proper rebuild. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: JM185
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2024 at 8:40pm
| Just curious on the differences between 629 and 631. Would there be anything tricky involved with the rebuild to get it set right for that engine? I haven't bought this pump yet and wanted to know if I should take this one or keep looking. Thanks. |