which weld rod,,,,?
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Topic: which weld rod,,,,?
Posted By: desertjoe
Subject: which weld rod,,,,?
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 1:41pm
I have NO idea what has happened with either me or my arc welder or ,,,,or,,Chit mayhaps it beem ole Shameless all along,,,,?? I did buy an older model Lincoln "Tombstone" arc welder that I like to use on thicker metals and leave the Lincoln 175 Mig welder for the lighter stuff. The arc welder is a AC-225-S Lincoln,, But here recently I find the arc welder to be quite a handfull to get a nice weld bead like I always could do without any problems at all!! I might of changed weld rod as I always used 6011 on the other arc welder I had (still have it ) chit,,it don't have any writing on it so can't tell ya'll whay is really is/was,,,Somebody told me I should use 6013 so I got a 10# carton,,didn't loke it and back to 6011 and having issues with it TOO!! The 6011 seems to "Stick" bad and have to restart the bead too often,,,,? Any help,,??
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Replies:
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 1:49pm
Have you tried bringing a handful of rods inside, maybe stick them in the oven on warm for a beer or two, then try them out real quick? I know you live in the desert, but seems you have had some weather lately.
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Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 1:58pm
Running to cold? Base metal clean? Rods a bit rusty on the end?
Some rods are finickier than others. As T-bone said, might be the moisture giving you fits... yea, put them in the oven and forget them for a couple hours.
------------- He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Posted By: KMAG
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 2:28pm
Lincoln has recommended amps for rod type, rod diameters, and metal thickness. I find using the reverse polarity setting (overhead welding) on the box requires a bit more amps to prevent rod sticking.
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 3:30pm
DJ , get a box of 7018AC rods !
It's the ONLY rods I've used for 30+ years with my AC-225-S. Actually tried the 6013 or 6011 this summer, YUCK...got 10#s minus 4 rods here,YUCK..
I use 7018AC 3/32 for welding up mower decks, 7018AC 1/8 to make trailers
NEVER ,ever had a bad weld and let's face it , I can't be that lucky !!!
7018 AC....AC on the end , as in Allis-Chalmers.... easy to um ,ah, oh yeah, remember !!!
About 5 years ago I replaced the AMPS switch,cost $45, back then.
------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: DonBC
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 3:30pm
I agree with moisture problems. The coating can attract moisture in cooler weather. I always stored my rods in the house.
------------- Jack of all trades, master of none
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 4:21pm
i agree on drying the rod.. and if it STICKS.. you need to turn up the amps 5- 10 and try it.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 5:09pm
Definitely try the 7018AC rod, it is made special for the AC buzz boxes.
My Son-in-law's brother is a pretty good welder (certified); he did a bit of welding for us using my buzz box (he had never done any AC welding, only modern stuff) I told him "this contraption will make you into a better welder". All I had on hand was some 6011 and 6013; he said he had never had so much trouble getting an arc struck, but pretty soon he was laying some nice beads down. I will never be that good because I don't want to weld enough to ever get that good.
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Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 5:48pm
I laso have a Lincoln 225 A.C. I like to use 7014 rod. I have a round plastic container with a cover that screws on to keep the rods sealed from moister.
------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 6:38pm
Actually 6011 rod is designed to use on rusty steel and somewhat of a "fast freeze" rod that is often used for the fist pass of pipe welding. The 6013 is more of a "fast fill". There are some companies that make rods that any buffoon can make a pretty weld with. Way back when I was in high school welding class a salesman can to do a talk and wrapped the cord of a stinger handle in a twist and then laid the end of the rod up against steel, then let go and walked away until the rod burnt out. It made a perfect weld without any human input. I can't remember what the name of the company was, although I do remember that back then those rods were expensive.
------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 7:09pm
Well,,,I'm gonna have to fess up as I'm betting ole Les's trk radiator that ole Shameless is gonna try and blow up my story sure as chit,,,,,,   The Welder is an almost new Lincoln that the PO had put it in garage and,,,,and,,,forgot it for a, a,,few years BUT the box of 6011 was a .....bit old,,,but always been inside and I only take out of the 50# box what I'm gonna use . I'm gonna try puttin some in the oven as I now remember when still working I seen a demonstration of a salesman showing the company welders the BIG difference in using an oven Vs leaving the rod boxes on the work table,,,It was amazing!! The Dude at welding supply told me to try a 5# box of 7018 AC in 1/8" and he would order me a big box as he was sure I would like it sure!!???
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Posted By: captaindana
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 7:11pm
Double check your ground wire and clamp connections
------------- Blue Skies and Tail Winds Dana
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Posted By: KJCHRIS
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 10:05pm
Check both the ground and rod holder connections for loose/dirty connection. How are you storing rods? the plastic sealable containers that hold 5 lbs work good for me. Fancy storage is heated rod boxes ( $400-->), or an old refrigerator with a small light bulb (15-40 watts) to provide heat. IF running straight AC welder my pick would be these 2 numbers; 6010 and 7014 to finish, run 3/32" for thinner metal and 1/8" for 5/16" and thicker. 6011 we used for field repair on rusty scaled metal. IF running an AC/DC on DC I'd still use the 6010 but would also use 7018. 7018 is very susceptable to drawing moisture. If planning a job, I'll take some into house, put in oven and bake @ 350* F for 30-45 minutes.
------------- AC 200, CAH, AC185D bareback, AC 180D bareback, D17 III, WF. D17 Blackbar grill, NF. D15 SFW. Case 1175 CAH, Bobcat 543B,
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Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 11:02pm
KJCHRIS wrote:
Check both the ground and rod holder connections for loose/dirty connection. How are you storing rods? the plastic sealable containers that hold 5 lbs work good for me. Fancy storage is heated rod boxes ( $400-->), or an old refrigerator with a small light bulb (15-40 watts) to provide heat. IF running straight AC welder my pick would be these 2 numbers; 6010 and 7014 to finish, run 3/32" for thinner metal and 1/8" for 5/16" and thicker. 6011 we used for field repair on rusty scaled metal. IF running an AC/DC on DC I'd still use the 6010 but would also use 7018. 7018 is very susceptable to drawing moisture. If planning a job, I'll take some into house, put in oven and bake @ 350* F for 30-45 minutes.
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Hey KJChris,,,that right there is a GREAT idea on the old fridge for a rod box,,,I'm kinda pizzed as I seen one of them apartment fridges at the city dump that looked like the box was in good shape,,,,,I'll go back in the morn see if still there. I also use the 5# size plastic pkgs the rod comes in and seems to keep em dry,,but who knows,,,??
OH, and the grd clamp and rod clamp are both new and good and tight as waas first thing I looked at. I shoulda posted a pic as most of the welds looked like CHIT before I spent bout an hour grinding all them GORRILLAS down,,,,,  I HATE having to do that as I usually put down some respectable welds,,,,, 
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Posted By: dee_veloper
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2022 at 1:50am
7014 is the rod of choice for me.
This chart may help as well https://s.yimg.com/aah/cyberweld/miller-stick-welding-calculator-171087-74.jpg" rel="nofollow - https://s.yimg.com/aah/cyberweld/miller-stick-welding-calculator-171087-74.jpg
------------- Don't confuse my personality with my attitude. My personality is who I am. My attitude depends on who you are.
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2022 at 7:11am
jaybmiller wrote:
DJ , get a box of 7018AC rods !
It's the ONLY rods I've used for 30+ years with my AC-225-S. Actually tried the 6013 or 6011 this summer, YUCK...got 10#s minus 4 rods here,YUCK..
I use 7018AC 3/32 for welding up mower decks, 7018AC 1/8 to make trailers
NEVER ,ever had a bad weld and let's face it , I can't be that lucky !!!
7018 AC....AC on the end , as in Allis-Chalmers.... easy to um ,ah, oh yeah, remember !!!
About 5 years ago I replaced the AMPS switch,cost $45, back then.
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YEAH! He always used 6011 with no trouble, and something is up at the moment. CHANGE THE TYPE OF ROD!  
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2022 at 7:12am
6010 make a decent Root Pass rod, to go back over with 7018 for strength. 6011 and 6013 I quit using more than 30 years ago.
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Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2022 at 5:16pm
WELL, A SORT OF AN update,,,BUT i WANNA KNOW,,,,,," "Will The Real Counter Person, Please Stand Up"??",,,,CHIT,,,I was all excited that with ya'lls info I was fixing to solve all my welder's issues,,,but the counter person at the welding Supply Shop told me "Lincoln does NOT make any 7018 in AC, 7018 is ONLY made in DC,,,so I ask him, does ANYONE IN THE FRIGGIN WORLD make 7018 in AC,,,? He was still shaking his head "NO" when I headed out the door,,!! Tractor Supply was on my way home so I thought I'll try one more plaace,,,and they had some 2# boxes of 1/8" 7018 AC in the Hobart brand. Hard to believe thay put people behind their coumters with no more savey then that,,,,,  
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Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2022 at 5:38pm
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2022 at 5:40pm
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2022 at 5:43pm
HAY DJ....
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hobart-7018ac-stick-electrode-1-8-in-5-lb" rel="nofollow - https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hobart-7018ac-stick-electrode-1-8-in-5-lb
I've got 2 boxes of it here !!!
it's the only stuff I buy...don't buy cheap 'store branded stuff'.....
btw, 7 seconds on the internet.... https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en/products/lincoln7018acrsp_smaw?sku=ED033515
Want to have fun, go back to that place, make a bet.. so you say Lincoln don't make 7018AC rods? OK, if I can prove it, you'll give me 110# for free,if not I'll give you 100$...show him the cash and a handshake..... ..then grab his computer, and google 'lincoln 7018AC '
you can mail me 10# of the LINCOLN 7018AC as a 'finders fee'.... Jay
------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2022 at 6:30pm
I still use 6010, (Lincoln Red Rod) 7018, (Lincoln Excalibur, Hobart Bros., Mckay Electrodes, ESAB Atom ARC) and a little 7014, (Lincoln) for high fill. I don't really use any AC current except for tig welding aluminum or non ferrous work. My portable machines are 400A, and 500A Hobart Bros. engine drives. DC only in reverse, or straight polarity will take you all the way.
6010 is a forceful digging arc intended for DC and it excels on dirty, rusty and crusty baseplate. 6011 tries to emulate this characteristic on AC but only does a mediocre job. This rod, (6010, 6011) used as intended and capped with 7018 will give very good durability if the substrate is prepared correctly. I still repair a lot of repairs made by farmers who don't know how to both use the machine, nor the filler rod let alone prep the surface correctly.
In reality, and as of late, I drag along my machine and break out the feeder with Lincoln, or Hobart Bros. flux core filler material. So much faster than stick and just as good of job. I prefer the old 400A machine for air arcing or gouging as it's commutator based and has no diodes to blow out when working with the high current. The later machine does just as well in all features as the older one, but "Bart Sr." still does what I need him to do.
------------- That's All Folks!
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Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2022 at 11:05pm
Well,,I'm gonna figure this sob out one way or the other!! I got home and went out and gave that 7018 AC rod a time or two ,,,,and then I done it again and danged if it ain't doing the same CHIT the other rod I was using,,,,WTF,,,,?? Tried back and forth changing rods and about decided something is amiss with the frigging Lincoln welder,,,it just don't want to weld anything!! It sticks bad so upped the heat from 65 to 75,,,nope,,,tried 85 nope again, still sticking and just making big ole gorrillas, not flowing worth a chit. went back to 6013 same chit even tried some 6010,,, I believe something AFU with the Lincoln,,,,!! Any kind words of wisdom?? I went and drug out my old 200 amp machine and it is "SUREWELD NCG AC ARC WELDER and I remembered the machine had tipped over and broke the aluminum crank handle,,,,I had done a southern engineering fix and then I bought the Lincoln and ,,,,just put it up I'm gonna check it out tamarrow cause I gotta finish this project soon
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2022 at 11:18pm
1/8 rod and 6013 - around 120 Amp 1/8 6011 will run at 100 to 130 Amp 6010 is a DC and will stick . 7018 comes in AC rod IF marked as such but is a DC rod also and runs at around 120 Amp and up 7014 is more of a drag rod for flat weld and runs around 120 Amp and up . I use mainly 1/8 rod on SMAW coated rod but now with the Pow Con or the Miller 304 everything is 70S .035 wire and reverse polarity . Way back I bought a 50 lb can of 7018 to do some work on trailer and and no matter what I tried it didn't burn right , stuck , sputtered and would not lay out , When I got the Pow Con and used reverse polarity the stuff laid out like buttering toast . Smooth as glass , flux lifted at around 3" past puddle and chipped off with hardly even touching it .
------------- Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel.
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Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 4:36am
You need to ensure the ground, (work) connection is as clean as your weld zone and it's more critical on the small AC buzzboxes no matter the brand. These are just a multi tap transformer with little to no filtering of the arc on the secondary output, (stinger). Unless a very old AC-225S Lincoln machine, it is also aluminum windings in the transformer and they weld a lot different with some use on them than when new. I purchased mine new in 1974 and it has copper windings, but newer than that are aluminum from what I've seen.
Another trick is to use two different grinding discs when working on repairs. I carry several grinders with different discs mounted up and don't use a disc that has busted the/a rust layer for much other than that. Break the crust, then use another disc to finish grind for a clean surface to weld to. Same thing with paint, don't use a grinding disc for metal to remove paint, this contaminates the disc spreading to your work. Using several discs avoids the cross contamination that gives many fits.
------------- That's All Folks!
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Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 5:54am
Many good points on electrodes, grounds, prep and cleanliness. Straight or reverse polarity is a DC welder thing and not an issue with your AC welder.
65 to 85 amps is too low for 1/8" to produce good welds. Hobart says 90 to 150 amps for 1/8" 7018 (AC or DC) electrodes. Most 1/8" rods (even 6011) are going to be in that recommended range to run properly. Your hand needs to be really steady and welder output stable to run good beads, with proper penetration, using 1/8" at 90 amps. JMHO
And moisture/dampness is an issue with 70 series rods. Many qualified weld procedures used in industry limit the time a low hydrogen rod can be out of a freshly opened container or out of a rod oven.
What are the thicknesses of the parts you are trying to weld? If it is thin material, get some smaller rods like 3/32" or 1/16", which will run at lower amperage ranges. Weld electrodes are not a one size fits all for best results. 3/32", and making multiple passes for heavy material, is more universal than having 1/8" rod, if you only want to have one rod around in my opinion. Recommended amperage ranges are often on the packaging.
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 6:46am
I keep 1/16", 3/32", 1/8" and 3/16" rods here for my purposes, Wire feed has .030 steel wire on CO2 cover gas, aluminum is also heavy at .035 with Argon cover gas. My suitcase welder has a TIG connection port but I have not done any TIG welding or considered a need for it here. It is far cleaner than stick or wire feed but more temperamental as to cleanliness and NO breeze. I predominantly use 7018 for nearly everything, wire on clean or thinner materials as not so good with that either.
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 7:03am
I too think the amperage sounds low.......but I can't get over how ol' Joe is no rookie, he's used this machine successfully before, and others before it???? Is this a really thin repair he's trying to do? Or? And I am FAR from being a good welder.
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 7:51am
i have a DC welder and i have used 7018 - 3/32 for 99% of the jobs in the last 30 years.. You can weld anything from 10 gauge up to 3/4 inch ... multiple passes.
Dont know why Joe needs 1/8 inch rods.. If your welding on 3/8 plate, ok... if thinner than that you should be using 3/32 rod .............. and the amps for 1/8 should be well over 100.
Codgers post about aluminum winding should be considered... Sometimes welders that have set for quite a while can get corrosion on the aluminum straps and clamps... Might want to open the cover, loosen the connections and check / clean / retorque. .... also test the OLD WELDER you have to verify you have a good 240v supply ... i blew one leg of a breaker once and had 120v supply and had similar results as you got... but your amps are way LOW.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 8:31am
Sure sounds like something fishy with the welder not the operator or the rod.
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 10:13am
SteveM C/IL wrote:
Sure sounds like something fishy with the welder not the operator or the rod. | That’s what I’m saying
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Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 10:34am

------------- That's All Folks!
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Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 7:45pm
shameless dude wrote:
coat hangers |
COAT HANGERS,,,Shameless?? CHIT,,that right there is what I used back when we was pore,,,and even a lot of baling wire when the Boss man wasn't looking,,,and,,,,AND,,,when I got my very first paycheck,,,,I went and bought some real welding wire from a dude said he had stole it from this dude lived around Blair or something like that,,,,,  i Used to could run the prettiest bead with some good baling wire and a hose tapped into the propane tank taken off that old JD 70,,,,, 
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Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 8:06pm
Well, it sure lookin like ole TBone and Steve and the other Steve have just about narrowed down to it being the friggin Lincoln machine,,,, I got my Multitestor and checked the legs on the 220 going to the work area and got 120 VAC on each leg,,same for the actual plug. Even plugged in an extra 3 prong dryer plug into that outlet and read those ends and also gots 120 VAC on both legs,,,,, SO,, I moved that Old Timer machine into garage,,It is FRIGGIN COLD in these parts these days,,was and STILL IS 17° with no wind,,,!! anyway, I wired up the Dryer plug into the machine,,used a 3/32 7014 rod with machine set at 70 amps and,,,,and,,,that sob took off like an old "Hot Rod Lincoln". Just as purdy as you please!!! Chit that 7014 ran so purdy,,,can't hardly believe it!! SO,,,me being JOE, I took a stick of that 7014 and turned on the Lincoln and that sob failed miserably!!! It stuck,, Pharted ,, slid around missed,,,!! OK,,,,,what could be wrong with The Lincoln???? I removed the cover and checked the volts right at the switch and is getting the full 220 VAC,,,,,,?????
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Posted By: dee_veloper
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 8:20pm
...7014 ran so purdy,,,can't hardly believe it!! |
That's why I use 7014. 7018 often is difficult to start. Generally have to break flux away from tip to ensure a clean start. Much easier to just use 7014 which has better penetration too, (see Miller chart).
------------- Don't confuse my personality with my attitude. My personality is who I am. My attitude depends on who you are.
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Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 8:46pm

------------- That's All Folks!
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 8:56pm
i would look at all the bolted faces and contacts on the switch.. may be corrosion BETWEEN them that you cant seek.. Look for small indications of pitting on the contacts. Loosen all contacts, sand paper / shine and reinstall / torque.
Looks like the wires are HARD WIRED to the transformer.. Only place for pitting / corrosion is on the switch contacts and the main lead for stinger / ground..
yes... dont look too close at the power switch... This guy has the green (ground) and white (hot) wires mixed up !!
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 9:38pm

------------- That's All Folks!
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Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2022 at 4:20am
steve(ill) wrote:
i would look at all the bolted faces and contacts on the switch.. may be corrosion BETWEEN them that you cant seek.. Look for small indications of pitting on the contacts. Loosen all contacts, sand paper / shine and reinstall / torque.
Looks like the wires are HARD WIRED to the transformer.. Only place for pitting / corrosion is on the switch contacts and the main lead for stinger / ground..
yes... dont look too close at the power switch... This guy has the green (ground) and white (hot) wires mixed up !!
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Hey Steve,,,which search engine do you use??? You always seem to find these great referrences,,,,!!! Gotta know which words to use,,,,,I'm gonna open that back of the Lincoln again to look closer at the contacts on the rotary switch as I always been suspicious of it as it has always turned awful EASY when switching heat settings almost with hardly any resistance,,,,? Prolly reemove main switch also and clean contacts. This area has always been bad about corrossian on brass/copper,,,,??
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2022 at 11:05am
I just GOOGLED "Lincoln AC225 welder" to start with... You get a lot of info / sales / data...
Then i went to YOU TUBE and typed in "Lincoln AC225 welder" ... and you get a list of how to REPAIR / UPGRADE / RESTORE... etc.... then look at a couple that SOUND GOOD to see if you can find what you want.
here is another......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bMyUlI_xIo" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bMyUlI_xIo
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: Ken Mn
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2022 at 11:48am
It sounds like there could be some shorted windings in the secondary side of the transformer. A welder transformer is way more complex than a simple step down transformer. The secondary has inductive reactance built in, often called a reactor. It's purpose is to keep the amperage constant by varying the voltage by varying of the magnetic field in that part of the transformer. Without the reactor, it would be like trying to strike an arc using a 12 volt car battery, jumper cables, and a welding rod.
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2022 at 3:20pm
With power off (had to say that...jes in case....) open it up and clean the contacts of the 'amps selector'. yes I KNOW the movable one is 'fun', I used a thin ,very fine file for that... when it 'gave up the ghost' I got a new switch and WOW, machine was like new again....
------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2022 at 6:26pm
Well,,,I did not get much done on my welder issues today as it never got above 14°,,even with the sun out most of the day,,then it couded up real dark,,almost like Tornado weather but nary a drop of water,,, Did a little work on my older arc welder in garage putting it together,,,Blew a lot of gookies out of the slot in transformer where the "amprege adjusting "slide" goes in and out of... LOTS of junk and spider webs,,,,!! Fired up the lathe and mACHINED A COUPLE OF QUICK SLIDE-IN CONNECTORS FOR THE GRD AND POWE LEADS into the box. Just need to attach the 3 prong connector on to the power lead and put this machine to work!!, I'll get back on the lincoln after Christmas,,,.
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Posted By: DON G
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2022 at 6:49pm
PaulB wrote:
Actually 6011 rod is designed to use on rusty steel and somewhat of a "fast freeze" rod that is often used for the fist pass of pipe welding. The 6013 is more of a "fast fill". There are some companies that make rods that any buffoon can make a pretty weld with. Way back when I was in high school welding class a salesman can to do a talk and wrapped the cord of a stinger handle in a twist and then laid the end of the rod up against steel, then let go and walked away until the rod burnt out. It made a perfect weld without any human input. I can't remember what the name of the company was, although I do remember that back then those rods were expensive. |
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Posted By: DON G
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2022 at 6:52pm
We had rods like that 50 years ago. They worked good but had to chip a lot of slag off. Now don't weld much and use mostly wire.
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2022 at 7:55pm
Well,,,I did not get much done on my welder issues today as it never got above 14°,,even with the sun out most of the day,,then it couded up real dark,
JOE !!! Thats why they made kitchen tables !!! 
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2022 at 8:38pm
The Lincoln AC225 is probably the most common welder on the planet, and I own one, used the heck out of it for decades before getting my paws on the Miller SRH-333 and CP200... but with probably 12 welders now in my immediate fleet, the AC225 is STILL here, because my grandfather gave it to me.
The problem you're having is clearly a matter of resistance in the cabling somewhere. It could be at the cable connection terminal (inside the unit) or at the ground clamp and stinger connections, OR... if there's a cut in the wire in the middle, it could have a rotten spot in the copper somewhere inside that wire somewhere.
Grab a wire, nearest the unit, bend it with two hands. Move away by an inch, bend it again. Keep flexing it 'till you get to the other end. Repeat with the OTHER cable.
If you EVER feel any spot that feels 'crunchy', cut it open with a knife, and let all the fuzzy green powder out. Then remove the cover, disconnect the old cable, thread in new cable, connect it, seal it, tape it, seal it again... then reinstall the ground and stinger clamps (make sure the AC polarity is set right ;-) ) and then clamp in a fresh rod and try again.
The "AC Polarity" joke is is an elbow-ribbing to all those who suggested Joe check the polarity of his AC-225. Those of us who weld lots are very sensitive to our polarity when using AC.
------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2022 at 6:50am
this.... mACHINED A COUPLE OF QUICK SLIDE-IN CONNECTORS FOR THE GRD AND POWE LEADS into the box
got me REAL curious !! My original , 1987ish..AC-225-S is HARD WIRED...does NOT have 'slide in connectors' nor does my spare unit or the one in the picture 2-3 posts up.
DJ if yours DOES have 'slide ins', you'll need to buy PROPER ends ( 4 pieces) to repair it OR properly modify your cables to bolt on. I have spare cables here but no passport.
A couple of pictures would really help ! I KNOW the parts ARE available.
BTW AC power does have a 'polarity', here in Canada, it changes 60 time a second. Faster then all the LGBTQXYZ crowd combined.....
------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2022 at 1:16pm
jaybmiller wrote:
BTW AC power does have a 'polarity', here in Canada, it changes 60 time a second. Faster then all the LGBTQXYZ crowd combined.....
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 Jay, every time I come up to supervise a site install, I'm amazed at how the time-space continuom warps north of the Poutine Curtain... It's quite a paradox, that my Maple-Leaf friends move so slow, but work so fast, get so much done, but still not finish... I'm certain you're right about it changing 60 times a second, but I don't think any of my crew up there are patient enough for that polarity reversal to occur, in order to take advantage of it when it happens...
Besides, it's cold outside, we should be in a pub, telling jokes, dunkn' Frites, tippin' brew and watching curlin' girls on the ice... Mebbie, when we're done, that compass will be pointing the right way to strike the arc, eh!
------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2022 at 9:06pm
jaybmiller wrote:
this.... mACHINED A COUPLE OF QUICK SLIDE-IN CONNECTORS FOR THE GRD AND POWE LEADS into the box
got me REAL curious !! My original , 1987ish..AC-225-S is HARD WIRED...does NOT have 'slide in connectors' nor does my spare unit or the one in the picture 2-3 posts up.
DJ if yours DOES have 'slide ins', you'll need to buy PROPER ends ( 4 pieces) to repair it OR properly modify your cables to bolt on. I have spare cables here but no passport.
A couple of pictures would really help ! I KNOW the parts ARE available.
BTW AC power does have a 'polarity', here in Canada, it changes 60 time a second.
Faster then all the LGBTQXYZ crowd combined.....
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Hey Jay,,, My bad,,,I was jumping from one machine to the orther ,,Sorry The ""slide-in" connectors were for the the spare welder I have, It is about 50 years old and used to weld with the best of them ! It is a NCG Sureweld 200 amp AC arc welder. I figure I could get it going again sooner than the Lincoln. And yES the lincoln has those short azzed cables that I do not like,,,!! I DID check the full length of both cables on the Lincoln and are both nice and flexible,,,
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2022 at 10:12pm
desertjoe wrote:
...I DID check the full length of both cables on the Lincoln and are both nice and flexible,,, |
Okay, so the next step: Clamp the ground clamp in the electrode holder (dead short).
Set the 225AC to lowest power setting.
Connect AC power, turn it on. let it grunt for about 2 minutes, shut power off, disconnect AC line, now feel all the cables and connections. Find the HOTTEST part, disassemble that joint, clean it up, and repeat the process on next-setting-up or two.
When you've gone about halfway up the welder's range, and there's no noticable 'hot' spot, try welding again. Clean up that ground clamp, and clean the rod grip.
------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2022 at 5:12am
I’ve had to clean the amp switch a couple times before n my Lincoln 225. My dad just loaded it up at the store and headed home when the news came on about JFK.
It really likes that TSC 7018AC. The switch is very hard to turn on it. Always has been. A couple years back I had to replace the stinger. I did the ground clamp at the same time. Funny thing, my engine driven Miller AEA does not like 7018AC.
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2022 at 5:55am
thanks for the info, I have seen a lot of 'mods' to these super reliable units on the net...
The 'trick' to turning the switch is to push it in a bit, then turn. The pushing releases some of the spring tension, so it turns easier. Also LIGHTLY file the corners off the switch contacts, helps the wiper contact move pver the tap contacts.
------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2022 at 12:57pm
Well Chit, Steve,,,I keep forgeting my honey is not here and I AM the current Boss Man Of the Place,(,hard to break those old habits,),,  
As an update on the weld rod issue,,,, I did get thet older NCG arc welder going and it STILL welds like a dream! I had some 3/16 6013 and did a couple of butt welds using two plates of 1/8" plate and just looked like some dimes just rolling along, I LOVE IT!! Then I grabbed some 3/16 7014 and had to raise the heat to 120 and did the same as the 6013,,,,WOW it getting gOOD!! Then, I got some 7018 in 3/16 and just could not get the arc to start, raised the heat to 140 but was still erratic stop and go. Don't think this machine likes 7018,,,, THEN ,,I had to try the 6010 as I have a 50# box of it in 1/8 and ,,,,and,,,I'm gonna have to sell that box to somebody,,,that sob will NOT light!! I'm satisfied with the performance of the 6013 and the 7014 as they were easy to start and weld metal flowed so pretty, so am going to finish up the trailer project with the NCG welder and then get back to the LinCOLN to see to it's issues on the rotary switch, I'm almost positive it has a problem as the switch does not "Click" when switching ,,more like just slides from setting to setting.,,,??
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2022 at 1:11pm
re: it's issues on the rotary switch, I'm almost positive it has a problem
as the switch does not "Click" when switching ,,more like just slides
from setting to setting.,
YES, 'switch issues'.... when you see how DEEP the 'detents' are, then it's 'houston,we have a problem'.
You may have lost the spring and ball for the denent...pretty sure I tossed my old one out,but I'll have a look. I KNOW I have a spare..prewired to the transformer,the dang HEAVY transformer....
------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2022 at 1:46pm
not to be critical Joe... but the smaller rod is 3/32 , not 3/16 ..... I have seen the FACTORY weld with 3/16 rod ... good when your doing 2 inch plate and have 200 amps or better !!
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2022 at 4:07pm
Chit,,,Steve,,,,Ya caught the "Tater", ya sure did,,,!!   you are correct,,I was typing when one of them "sultry" lookin ads with the sheer lookin undies for weemens shot across the screen and,,,,and,,,nacherly I had to get a looksee, even tho I had NO reason to do so,,,,,(I'm checkin that ad right now trying to decide should I call the authorities ,,,,,,,or just study on it some more,,,,,,,  
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2022 at 4:20pm
NOTHING wrong with LOOKING , Joe !!! 
Ya dont have to "LOOK" too hard... they about bounce them in your face , every time you turn on the screen !!
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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