Secondly, just like old men, machinery (switches and wire can diminish as it gets old as like dirt gets in the switches, breakers etc... and wire breaking down from vibrations etc... or pinched a hot wire somehow.

 Best to do would be to run a new fused hot wire up and put those lights on their own separate circuit. and make sure you have good grounds and the cab grounded too.

Also check for maybe possible hot wire got some insulation rubbed off like going through a hole or under some other mounts....

On my 7010, I replaced my front stadium lights with 4 individual LEDs from amazon at 42W each.  I also replaced my 2 inside back stadium lights with a light bar that is at 312W and then added two 42W LED individual lights to the outside of the light bar so I could see better to the left and right from the back.  i also replaced the right side fender with a side shooter LED light at 83W.  I have had no problem when turning on the stadium lights.  They work fine and apparently I haven't exceeded the fuse setting.  I did all of this last year.  The stadium lights do not run through the dash switch.

I also replaced the driving lights attached at the cab with LEDs from All States Ag rated at 18W.  I didn't notice it until late this summer but after running the tractor with all of my lights on, my switch is getting hot and stopping my flashers from working.  I also replaced my flashers with LEDS only on the front.  Someone else on here reported that they replaced the switch and it fixed the problem of the overheating switch.  I thought LEDs pulled less power than the old bulbs so I didn't think bulb replacement would cause the overheating of the switch.  My cab driving lights continue to work even when the flashers go out.  My situation is a minor inconvenience and yours is different. 

Given all that I have done and the fact that I don't have issues like yours, it is possible that you have an old switch and/or a bad fuse/connection.  The fuses for these lights are autoreset versions but in order for my flashers to work, the switch had to cool down.  I couldn't wait for 20 minutes and they would start working if the switch was still hot.  I was cutting hay at nighttime so it stayed hot.  

I want to replace the fender red/yellow light and the rear flasher LEDs and then i will be all LED.  Sometimes you have to install resistors to stop the hyper flashing on all flashing LEDs but I didn't think you needed a resistor for non-flashing lights.  I think because I have two incandescents on my flashers right now, I don't have the hyper flashing.  I guess I will see if I need a resistor.

To try and fix my problem, I am going to purchase a new switch and install it this winter.  i won't know if it works until the summer though.  I am guessing that a 7080 has the same lighting setup as a 7010 but then maybe not.  Good luck.  Tracking down a bad connection is quite difficult so starting with the switch might be good starting spot, in my opinion.

What you need to do is increase the size of the wire, and also wire in relays on the circuits you have running to the lamps. This takes the load off the switch. The switch is probably a low amperage rated switch. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to make individual circuits and put the Headlights on one circuit with a relay, and the aux. lamp(s) on another circuit with relay. Between moving up a gauge with the wire and installing relays to handle the load, you should be good to go....

Steve@B&B

re: the light switch gets pretty warm while the lights are on.

THIS is the HUGE 'red flag' !!!

The switch should NOT get warm let alone 'pretty warm'.

The internal contacts are worn and 'look' like a very low ohm resistor. Electrical math of P=I squared R will be the power wasted as heat (aka 'pretty warm' ). I is amps, 22 for you,so even a small resistance means a LOT of watts = 'pretty warm'.

You need to have the switch control relays that power the LEDs.

Started putting lights on the 190XT.

Light bar sure puts light out the front, decided to put corner lights on and couple in the back. But haven't finished the job yet.

 Will use heavy toggle switches up on the cab fan shroud to feed front lights, toggle for side lights and one for rear lights and fuse the feed wire from under the cowling. Will be putting in heavier feed wire to also run the wipers and fans and blinkers etc.

 Had thought about putting in rocker switches down next to the counsel, then I would have used the relays up above for the lights and such, but don't need to turn them on and off very often so simple will be the plan.