Stitching cast iron
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=190104
Printed Date: 26 Jun 2024 at 1:39am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Stitching cast iron
Posted By: darrel in ND
Subject: Stitching cast iron
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 2:28pm
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So, the engine block on my 8070 has a big honkin' crack in it from behind the water pump around the corner on the right side, and down the outside of the water jacket by the #1 jug. Now the part behind the water pump was stitch fixed, unbeknownst to me, before I put this engine in my 8070, and lasted about 8 years. Year and half ago, the crack went around the corner and went down the water jacket. Question is, is stitch fixing this even something I should think about doing, or is this a lost cause. My thoughts have been that it's a lost cause, but I have heard some positivity from some people "in the know" about results if a person knows what they are doing. I've been doing some studying up on it, and just not sold on it yet. Mostly out a little time I guess, if it doesn't work. What's yall's thoughts on it? Thanks, Darrel |
Replies:
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 4:33pm
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don't know but.... 1) need to drill a small hole at the ends of the crack, will prevent crack from growing. 2) can the block be brazed ? I've done that with Willys tranny 4 decades ago. 3) bet there's some fancy welding rod you might be able to use ... ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: DonDittmar
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 5:27pm
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If it was stitched correctly in the first place the crack would have stopped The short answer to your question is yes The long answer yes, as long as the stitch repair is performed by a person that knows how to do it correctly ------------- Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity" 1968 D15D,1962 D19D Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 6:11pm
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I think a lot of it depends on the LOCATION.. if the area can FLEX, you might have future problems.. If it is out in the flat area and plenty of meat around it ... probably OK. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 6:16pm
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The answer propably is to repair it again, and then BOLO for another block! Make sure whoever is doing the repair magna-fluxes the crack, to find out where the end(s) are...  https://youtu.be/Pq0wfU4ZaKk" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/Pq0wfU4ZaKk ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 6:58pm
| I'm not looking at it, but the crack is on the front machined face? and wraps around to the right side behind the injection pump?? I think the only welding/brazing that will have ANY chance of holding would require the block to be stripped, put in an oven and warmed up to a proper temperature and then repaired. If you've got to go to that expense to have a repaired block, I'd be looking for a good used block or engine to harvest a block from. This isn't an engine block in a 1930's WC with 5 to 1 compression. It is an engine that makes waaay more HP and torque and operates at double the RPM's with three times the compression ratio. The block absorbs all this hammering and vibration and it's too bad it has a crack, but I don't think it will ever work with an in-chassis repair. |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 7:33pm
| i can weld anything , but i am with dr. allis on this one |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 7:49pm
"stitching" is a process of drilling a line of 5/16 inch holes thru the crack and screwing in special little screw like set screw.... you space them with a small gap between, then go back and drill between the screws and install more... you end up with a line of screws thru the crack that overlap and are all locktite together... It is a process that was started probably 70 years ago... now "special tools" are used to space / drill/ install .
 ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:11pm
| I would replace the block. If it is started along the side of block , it will get worse. When the engine fires, the piston is pushing up on top of block. At the same time the crank is trying to push the bottom of block down. The more power you put into it the more stress there is on the crack. MACK |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2022 at 11:10am
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Thanks to all who responded. Guess that I pretty well knew in the back of my mind that a new block is inevitable. I have too many projects to do, and not enough money to get em all done in as timely of a fashion as I would like to be able to, so sometimes I start grasping at straws. I do know that if the original didn't hold up, a fix that is not as strong as the original damn sure won't hold up. I'm not sure what caused the original crack in the block behind the water pump, or if maybe the PO that fixed it didn't quite fix it 100 percent, and it may have held with a better fix or not. At the time that the crack came around the corner and went down the side of the water jacket, it was getting worked harder than it ever had since I owned it, so stress was no doubt a factor. I do have a block in an 8050 that burned up a few years ago, should be the same block, not? Just needs 8070 components. Sad part, this engine ran like a swiss watch, didn't burn any oil, pulled very well. Was actually a 7580 engine with the roosa pump. But despite all of that, it's still not going to be a cheap fix, because even though things were in good shape, you just don't tear an engine down and put back together without some new parts. I know that the pump and injectors will be fine, head will need a "looking over". Beyond that, time will tell. They say that a gasket set alone now, which is a given, is over a grand. Way too sweet of a tractor to watch it just sitting there. Where there is a will, there's a way. Looking forward to somehow getting it back to earning it's keep. Darrel |
Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2022 at 11:16am
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Don't know anything about these parts but I ordered a headset for one of my Detroit 12V-71T engines and the kit was Victor-Reinz which is top quality. https://www.agkits.com/Allis-Chalmers-426-670-670I-670T-Diesel-Engine-Rebuild-Kit-1.aspx#.Yv0T1nbMIdU" rel="nofollow - https://www.agkits.com/Allis-Chalmers-426-670-670I-670T-Diesel-Engine-Rebuild-Kit-1.aspx#.Yv0T1nbMIdU
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2022 at 11:36am
| 8050 block is the same. The 7080/7580/8070/4W220 engines were stretched out to 210 to 222 flywheel HP depending on which chassis the engine went into. If it is any consolation, they are not known at all for block failures like you have. Broken crankshafts, yes, and many of those could be attributed to over fueled and/or bad fluid vibration dampers. |
Posted By: NEVER green
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2022 at 3:28pm
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I have a engine out of a 7040, ran,wore out very cheap if you would pick up. Minnescrotum cant be too far away. ------------- 2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50 |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2022 at 5:57am
What part of Minnesota are you in? Thanks, Darrel |
NEVER green wrote:Posted By: NEVER green
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2022 at 1:27pm
30 miles north of Hutch. ------------- 2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50 |