Farm Equipment - Painting Options in the DFW Area

Painting Options in the DFW Area - D15 II

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Topic: Painting Options in the DFW Area - D15 II

Posted By: Mosin9130
Subject: Painting Options in the DFW Area - D15 II
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2022 at 7:28pm

Evening Allis friends, need some help/advice on something here.

Have a D15 II that needs an engine rebuild. I'm going to pull the engine and while it's at the engine shop, I would like to take the tractor "carcass" to someone or a paint shop to get it painted (I just do not have the facilities to do myself). Is there anyone in the DFW area that someone could recommend other than your typical paint shop?

I currently have a Land Cruiser 80 series I'm restoring and it is at one of the professional paint shops (Premier Auto Sports) currently, but, I just can't see them shuffling a non-operational tractor around their shop...but, if that is my only option, I'll do it.

So...am I crazy here? - doing this completely wrong? - doing it right, here's someone that would love to do it? - etc, etc, etc

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'56 WD 45...'63 D15 II...'66 D17 IV

Replies:

Posted By: Dave76
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2022 at 7:41pm

I would put the engine back in and run it for awhile to make sure there are no oil leaks before getting it painted.

Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2022 at 8:21pm

There has been a guy on craigslist advertising that he paints tractors. I don't know anything about him.

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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A

Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2022 at 8:43pm

Do as Dave suggests. Do not get the cart in front of the horse.

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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson

Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2022 at 9:26pm

As Dave and Stan said, put the engine back in first, run it and make sure there are not any leaks. Once it is good, you can tear it down to paint.

While you have the engine out, I would recommend getting a new clutch assembly and examining your ring gear for wear - replace if needed. You can also replace the seal and gasket on the clutch input shaft - but you will need to drain some hydraulic oil.

If that isn't enough, you might also want to check your pivot pin to see that it isn't excessively worn. Another thing is seal for the steering shaft worm gear - after 60 years most of them leak!

If you get all of that done, you can do a good cleaning and degreasing on the front pedestal while it's apart. Much easier to get in those hard to reach places.

In short, there is no shortage of things to do while an engine is out getting rebuilt. Besides, all of this should be done before you restore the tractor anyway. The end result will be much better.

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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080

Posted By: jvin248
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2022 at 10:35pm

For a 'working clothes restoration' you can always mix up a wipe-on finish made from 2/3 boiled linseed oil and 1/3 mineral spirits. I used that on my badly faded MF35 last summer and people thought I must have repainted it. I will likely do the same method on my 52 WD this spring as a general metal protector while getting the tractor in working order and sorting out what problems need fixing (new acquisition in December). Super inexpensive and easy method.

It looks like the shine and color depth of the tractor just after a rain.

Wipe on only one or two thin coats so it can dry fast. If stored outside you may go six months to a year before it looks like it needs another coat. Inside storage it will last a lot longer.

Then you can take your time getting to a regular paint shop, plenty of time to watch for leaks to fix.