How does one evaluate stopping brake bands without removal? I don't see a procedure other than when the steering clutch drums are removed. The manual states to replace when the material has thinned to the depth of the lines manufactured into the linings but really nothing more. I'm wondering if the access panel, (floor) can be removed and if a guy could actually see the lining materials without removal?

Thanks Ray. The manual states these are fully bonded linings and there is a pair of grooves machined into the friction material. When the grooves shallow from wear, the linings need replaced. The steering clutches and brakes appear to be somewhat of a minor task in this tractor requiring only a couple of hours per side with no finals impact, and no seal work. Both driving, and driven sections bolt together with the clutch packs in the middle. I've only been into IH wet steering clutches in the past and that is many moons ago.

I have some centrifugal clutch shoes going off to be relined this next week and will include these brake bands if needing work. I'd certainly hate to pull it apart solely to see if this area needs addressing, but would really be kicking myself if lax judgement caused failure by being lazy.

Following is a bit of the procedure.

Steering clutch and brake:

Someplace I seen the original lining thickness, but can't locate it now. Surely seems about .1875". The gent I'm going to use for the work has the specs on the tractor so no matter.

In the brake adjusting procedure they have you turn the adjuster to 80ft#, then back it off two full turns falling into the closest recess on the adjuster.

All the Cats and IH's, I have been in are 2 and 3 piece brake bands bolted together.  The D6's I run have gap at the top the way the linkage works and you can see 2 or 3 inches of the drum.

During my nightly surf of ebay I ran across this listing, but they seem to be very expensive:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233656494796?hash=item3667032acc:g:M7MAAOSwgwhfFtc1" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.com/itm/233656494796?hash=item3667032acc:g:M7MAAOSwgwhfFtc1

If that truly is the case with accuracy I'll be very happy I have parts machine accessibility.

I have never priced a bonded lining repair, but I sure would shop before I payed that. I want to say the last set of Cat lining was $100 to $150 including the rivets. But I need a new way to set the rivets. Was using a friends old 1930's cast iron machine with a foot pedal you pushed down that crimped the rivet. Was not bolted down so the 2003 earthquake tipped and broke it. So as time fly's put the last band I had riveted in the tractor in the 10 to 14 time frame and bought more lining for next time. But I keep slowing down more so tractor runs less too.

Yes, I was speaking with Rick about brakes and want to support him for supporting the site. However he cannot do bonded linings. There is a place local that does relining and can do bonded linings in another of their locations. I've not asked about this set yet, only had them do truck brake shoes in years past. They've done very well in the past on my antique Mack trucks brake shoes. 

When the adjuster nut goes tight means you have run out of adjustment.

Then you have to remove steering clutchs to replace brake bands. AC didn,t have replacement linings listed, you had to buy a whole new band.

Or find someone who can bond wet lining material to the old bands

Wonderful, and thank you. I have talked to the former owner and he tells me the steering clutches were "checked", and brakes adjusted by the servicing agency, (dealer) annually during service routines. I couldn't figure out how to "check" the steering clutches from the manuals other than functionally.

All I know is the brake pedals are very even in amount of travel before the brakes grab. 

Thanks for jumping in Mel. Wish I had experience but don't have a lot and this is my first owned tractor. Knowing parts are going to be difficult to access easily leads me down the path of asking questions and reading manuals much more than my normal.

I agree with the steering clutches and brakes having longevity as/and they are not presenting problems at this time. However I do want to be as versed as can be once the tractor becomes operational again. Always one to actually do the maintenance, I don't really like to stop to read a book in the middle of something unless a crucial measurement, or setting, as example. I'm attempting to question normal wear items only as we can't predict catastrophic, or sudden failure, (usually).

I do have access to two parts chassis and although they are in the weather, they aren't going anyplace. One still has a blown engine and p/s transmission, the other a direct drive with no engine and a usable undercarriage. The chassis with the blown engine had a ripper. Both the ripper and valve body sections are gone from the chassis. Should either of these need moved I'd run a retrieval mission, but I'm assured they are safe. 

I continue to learn with each response to my questions; thank you.

I certainly don't want to be annoying, but do enjoy learning something I do not have experience with, or on.