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penetrating fluid

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment -Knowledge Base
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=183875
Printed Date: 19 Jul 2024 at 4:42pm
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Topic: penetrating fluid
Posted By: only AC orange
Subject: penetrating fluid
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2021 at 8:24am
I have seen various posts regarding what makes best penetrant for rusty objects that won't budge. Among them was a mixture of acetone and ATF. What portions of each works best? I have some wheel locks from WD/WD45 that won't budge after many soakings of Kroil, PB blaster, WD-40.



Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2021 at 8:44am
normally 50-50........... but if Kroil wont loosen it up, you probably will not do much good.. If you have the parts OFF the tractor, you might try electrolysis.... That gets into the hidden threads.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09ck7R9zvUw" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09ck7R9zvUw




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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2021 at 11:18am
Another thing you can try is the WAX method - using color crayons or other paraffin wax - heat the part enough to melt the wax when applied to the part at thread intersection .
  Wax will seep down  into joint and break the rust bond . 
If that doesn't work the heat then shock may work - Heat up and quick cool down - Another method if accessible is heat and Hammer shock - striking the part when hot - in some cases red hot - to break internal bond of metals to each other   

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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."


Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2021 at 2:52pm
As luck would have it I'm trying to remove rusty D-15 seat pins . Been using Kroil and heat and my big hammer . Have a couple that I haven't got out yet . May hafta break out the crayons and see what happens . THANKS !


Posted By: Kenny L.
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2021 at 3:13pm
I really like the stuff that is call free I got it at Napa I think it's better then kroil and I used Kroil a lot of years.


Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2021 at 4:11pm
Free ? I'll look for it the next time I'm in NAPA . THANKS !


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2021 at 4:59pm
I’ve had good results with ATF. Mixing different compounds may complicate things? ATF alone, tolerates some higher temps? Its flash point(vapors ignite) is somewhere between 300-400F & it’s boiling point is nearer to 500-600F. Maybe try spray soaking ATF onto rusted areas before heating? Then low temp heat <300F will help draw ATF inside rusted parts?? Once ATF has been drawn inside, then carefully heat up metal & listen for boiling sounds of ATF. The cherry red metal stages are nearer to 800-1500F? If you go to those temps, best to understand ATF’s properties.


Posted By: Kenny L.
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2021 at 11:52pm
Originally posted by ACinSC ACinSC wrote:

Free ? I'll look for it the next time I'm in NAPA . THANKS !


 I Should've type Free all oops


Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2021 at 7:03am
Thanks Kenny , I'll check it out soon .


Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2021 at 10:43am
About 60 years ago I got a can of Rust Aid, Detroit Efficiency Company, from my local A.C dealer. When I had used it up, I tried to get some more and there was none, and I've never been able to find any.

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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"


Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2021 at 4:16pm
Link to NAPA Free-All

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCBRE12?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=pmd_ZOqDdIdfX8Vwkhlr9.Dawud.4tscUXOQOXzdz2DV6P8-1634246066-0-gqNtZGzNAjujcnBszQi9" rel="nofollow - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCBRE12?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=pmd_ZOqDdIdfX8Vwkhlr9.Dawud.4tscUXOQOXzdz2DV6P8-1634246066-0-gqNtZGzNAjujcnBszQi9


Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2021 at 5:48pm
Thanks Gary !


Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2021 at 4:53pm
YouTuber Project Farm has been testing penetrating oils.
Ran several tests, has it down to an upcoming shootout of the top 3.
Will run this in a few months. The three are Liquid Wrench, Seafoam Deep Creep and Gibbs penetrating oil. PB blaster and Kroil and atf-acetone lost out.
He is testing 1/2" wheel lug nuts, stripped of zinc and artificially rusted.
He runs a control group with out any product and tests each product.
I figured the top 3 reduce torque to loosen by 16-20 percent.
He is showing that the penetrating oils do help.

However, none of the nuts are rusted to the point that they will break
the stud. In real life this is what I am trying to prevent-you put pressure on a nut/bolt and then back off for fear of snapping. Then penetrating oil, and many times it will break anyway. So no guarantee.

The torch heating almost always works. But sometimes I have had heated threads then gall up. Anyone know how to stop that?


Posted By: Dale (Stonelick)
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2021 at 5:27pm
I was able to remove the eccentric pins from the eccentric pin body on my CA by putting them in a wood stove for 4 hours and let them cool naturally.

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1951 CA - 1944 C - 1949 B - Kubota M6800


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2021 at 7:51pm
I've always had great luck with Kroil. The real stubborn stuff like rusted lug nuts, I heat up first with a map gas bottle till its pretty hot. Let it cool down a bit, and soak it with Kroil and let it sit a few days. Within those few days I'll walk past it and soak em' again a few times. In most cases, that Kroil crept in the threads and eventually things came apart without breaking any studs or knuckles.......
Steve@B&B


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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife


Posted By: Walker
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2021 at 7:25pm
Just noticed that Free All at walmart tonight.


Posted By: iowallis
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2021 at 8:08am
I prefer Kroil but because my "supplier" is no longer in business I use it sparingly. After my dads passing I found several partial bottles of type F ATF (my mom and dad had several '64-'65 T-Birds) so I been mixing acetone with the ATF and have it in a old style pump oil can. 

My dad used CRC "Freeze Off" and Lubriplate Chain and Cable penetrating fluid. 


Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2021 at 12:46pm
old thread...
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/penetrating-oil_topic37349.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/penetrating-oil_topic37349.html
 
 I'm still looking for more Presto Nut & Bolt Loosener.  It was the best stuff I ever used on getting things loose.. 


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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."


Posted By: Mfam8
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2021 at 10:38am
I have used Kroil up until I discovered Free-All. it is hands down far more effective than any other penetrant available. No contest. Also, It is available at Auto Zone, Napa, Rural King etc. Getting easier to find all the time. Part # is    RE12


Posted By: JD Dan
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2021 at 10:43am
super-eez by trc here


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 19 Nov 2021 at 8:43am
I'll havta' pick up a can of that Free All and try it. Things can get pretty rusty here in New Joisey. I go through a lot of Anitseize around here so things come apart without to much trouble later!   Thumbs Up
Steve@B&B


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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife


Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2021 at 5:59pm
kroil is good i have tryed almost everything over the years i think this free all is about the best i have used so far for penitrating and eating rust but i think its the craps for lubricating i like shafer pentro 90 for a spay on lube .                                                       i use lots of esentca lube from texas industries when large amounts are needed or if i am heating parts because it will take alot of heat 


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2021 at 7:52pm
Keep in mind that when these tests are using artificial rust process it is whole bunch different than 40 years of real rust. Each situation is different. Lots of heat can work well in some cases but not so much in others. If you are using heat then red hot with oxygen acetylene torch. Not half hot. When I am doing press in bearings I just pound them apart. When you get to final race put 4 red hot spots in it.  Let it cool. That shrinks it and then it comes out with some light taps. Each case can be whole new ball game. Long and short of it the oils seldom work but it is the first thing to try.


Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2021 at 9:36pm
Originally posted by Dusty MI Dusty MI wrote:

About 60 years ago I got a can of Rust Aid, Detroit Efficiency Company, from my local A.C dealer. When I had used it up, I tried to get some more and there was none, and I've never been able to find any.

 I just googled Rust Aid by Detroit Efficiency, and see that it is readily availably. 


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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"



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