LED light issue
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=179964
Printed Date: 25 Sep 2024 at 5:24am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: LED light issue
Posted By: AC720Man
Subject: LED light issue
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2021 at 8:55am
A few months ago I installed PAR 36 LED lights in place of the factory lamps on my XT. I am very pleased with them, however, I noticed there is a slight flicker when the flashing lights are flashing. I did not notice this before with the original lights. Why would the LED’s be picking up the warning light cycles?
-------------
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
Replies:
Posted By: albatros_3
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2021 at 10:48am
I have that with the LED lights on one of my tractors. My guess is your flashers are still incandescent bulbs and are wired on the same circuit as the LED lights. LED lights respond very quickly to voltage change and the flashing lights are creating voltage drops as they cycle on and off. If you want to stop that, you can due several things. You can switch the flashers over to LEDs and change the flasher relay to an electronic one. This will reduce the current draw and minimize the flashing of your work lights. Or you can run a new circuit to the work lights so the flashers and work lights are "more" separated. You may still see some flashing in the LEDs but it should be reduced.
|
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2021 at 11:37am
|
It's too bad the LEDs are 'voltage driven' and not properly designed using constant current, then you wouldn't have the problem. Depending on the current they do draw, you could add a capacitor in parallel with them. 1,000MFD /per amp should be enough.
-------------
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
|
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2021 at 9:15pm
My first thought was to replace the flashers with LED ones but was uncertain if that would solve the issue so we are thinking alike. Honestly, I have never been a fan of the flashers coming on as soon as light selection is made. I surely don’t want them coming on while I am in a field working. I have thought about separating the flashers circuit and put it on a circuit of its own with its own switch. Would that solve it when I turn the flashers on?
Thanks also for the resistor advice. I have no idea of the amperage draw, it is a 20 amp fused circuit.
-------------
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2021 at 9:19pm
for a test, run a wire from the battery over the hood, to the new LED lights, as a new circuit.. you could put a toggle switch or wall switch in the line as a temporary test... Then try the flashers. If all works, do a permanent wire and switch setup.
-------------
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
Posted By: albatros_3
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2021 at 7:20am
^^ I second the test with a wire from the battery as a test. This method sort of uses the battery as a capacitor to reduce voltage drop as previously mentioned. My tractor has a switch on the flashers that allow me to turn them off.
|
Posted By: PAFarmer
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2021 at 1:46pm
|
I had this exact thing on our 8010 when I went to LED. It's as others here say, it's a constant voltage vs. constant current thing within the LEDs. I assumed it was related to all the light circuits being fed off the one feed thru the rotary switch. I ran a dedicated circuit direct to the battery, and then installed a separate relays for the different light circuits. I was doing this anyway to have separate control of the side facing lights I installed and also when I installed a 7 pin connector on the back for implement lights.
This made the dimming go away on the LEDs when the flashers blink as the LEDs are getting their potential direct from the battery and the rotary switch and flasher are only driving the relays now instead of actually feeding the lights.
|
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2021 at 2:14pm
Ok, but I like the rotary switch because I have 3 light settings, 1-outer light low beam, 2-outer high beam, 3-all 4 lights. What if I just separate the flasher circuit putting it on its own lead to the battery via a toggle switch?
-------------
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
Posted By: PAFarmer
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2021 at 2:24pm
|
I still have the rotary switch. The only change I made is the rotary switch activates relays which in turn, feed the lights. This allows the lights to source their current from the battery via the relays instead of drawing the current thru the rotary switch.
|
Posted By: TeddyMaddox
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2023 at 5:58am
|
Thanks for sharing your experience, and I hope you've found a solution to enjoy your LED lights without flickering by now!
|
Posted By: lederasd
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2023 at 6:03am
I see your post is from a couple of years ago, but the issue you mentioned with LED lights and flickering is still relevant for many. LED lights can sometimes behave differently than traditional bulbs due to their sensitivity to voltage changes.
If you're still facing the flickering problem or looking for more recent solutions, it might be worth checking out https://infralumin.com/" rel="nofollow - infralumin.com . They specialize in precision-engineered LED lights and might have updated products or advice to help with your situation.
LED technology continues to advance, so newer products might offer improved performance.
|
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2023 at 6:15am
that's because you're not using them properly
-------------
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
|
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2023 at 8:19am
or because he is a AI BOT... taking a few words from a post and scanning the internet for DATA that uses those words... then formulates a sentence using them............. led light/ flickering/ sensitivity / flashing .....
-------------
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2023 at 11:53am
|
From my limited experience the 6/12 volt replacement lamps don’t work well in6 volt if the charging system is not up to par
|
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2023 at 8:13am
|
So can you just put LED bulbs in flasher lights and solve the issue? I have very little road travel so flashers aren't much of an issue but if there is a simple fix that would be nice. Have installed Larsen light kit on one 8070 but not got to try it out.
|
Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2023 at 9:07am
|
A simple relay or two will solve your issues as mentioned. Wire a direct feed from your battery, or tiepoint and enable these relays via toggle switches to perform the function(s) desired. Another option that would most likely work well is to upsize the wire gauge size feeding the existing switch to lessen the voltage drop, (droop) when the current is cycled on. Myself, I'd incorporate four type 87/87A, Type "30" relays, (many names for same thing) into a small enclosure fed from the battery positive post. Onto the dash, or ancillary panel illuminated rocker, or toggle switches would be incorporated. The amount would be dependent upon requirements. Again for me, there would be a "Master" relay which is enabled via the ignition switch powering the other relays. A left, right, front, rear independent relays and toggle switches for lighting enable.
Your main feeder relay should be 40A fed with say 8AWG wire, and the rest sized for the appropriate loading endured plus about 25% for any surge allowance. Probably less than 10A total draw per circuit using LED lighting but each "branch" should be fuse or circuit breaker protected. You can get crazy bright with little current draw using "Cree" design LED lighting elements.
-------------
A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
|
|