Farm Equipment - Allis 7060 Power Shift Question

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Allis 7060 Power Shift Question

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=175258
Printed Date: 03 May 2024 at 11:57pm
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Topic: Allis 7060 Power Shift Question

Posted By: tthams
Subject: Allis 7060 Power Shift Question
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 12:50pm

Hey everyone,

I am new to running the family since my Dad recently passed away. I recently bought my first ever tractor. I grew up with Allis on the Family farm, so I decided to stick with what I knew. I purchased an Allis 7060 with PowerShift. It is a brown belly, just painted black. I love the tractor. I recently used it yesterday for the first full day.

When I test drove the tractor for an hour the high/low would not slip into gear with the clutch depressed. I would have to kill the fuel to put it into gear. Once in gear, if I didn't let off the clutch I could always shift between high/low. I figured it was an adjustment with the clutch cable. When I had the tractor shipped, and I drove it off the semi, the high/low when into gear just fine with out having to kill the tractor. It was a warmer day when I unloaded it off the semi.

Fast forward to yesterday. The same thing happened. It would not shift into high/low without killing the tractor. As the day when on and the tractor warmed up shifting from high/low worked great. I noticed the transmission brake would get more aggressive with stopping the tractor as the day went on.

I also noticed the clutch with get more aggressive with engaging. With the clutch cold, I could inch the peddle out and gradually release the clutch. As the day went on, had about 1/2 inch play before the clutch would engage. I also noticed that with the transmission under a load pulling 200 bushels that if I put the transmission into reverse, the transmission/tractor would shudder/jolt when it first begins to move.

My question is I am assuming this is still an adjustment with the clutch cable. Would anyone have a manual or suggestions on specs on how to adjust the clutch cable? I know how to access the clutch cable, but can I adjust the cable so the clutch lets out smoother, and the transmission brake doesn't engage as hard, or do I give up one thing for another?

Can anyone also explain what is going on when the transmission is cold that the transmission brake is not kicking in until it is warm?

Here is my pride and joy! uploads/21457/7060.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/21457/7060.jpg

Replies:

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2020 at 11:15pm

Don't use the transmission brake to stop the tractor. Push clutch down to brake then use foot brake to stop tractor. Transmission brake is only to stop transmission to put in gear. MACK

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 5:56am

I agree 100% with not using the transmission brake to stop the tractor. I am asking for trouble. I am 42 years old and grew up with only Power Director transmissions. Pushing the clutch to the floor was very common.

I bought a service manual to learn about adjusting the cables and linkage. With the engine warm, it seemed like the moment you pushed the clutch 1/4 the transmission brake would engage.

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 6:13am

The cable only adjust R-6. If linkage moves nicking spool all the way in and out (with space between spool and lever when out) it is adjusted. With cold oil, it may take a few seconds to stop rotation of clutch housings. MACK

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 6:16am

Inching spool, Not nicking spool. MACK

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 10:06am

Thanks for the info. I am sure when the service manual comes on Thursday this will make more sense. If I need to adjust the inching spool linkage then, how much space between the spool and the lever is normal when it is all the way out. I am still wondering if I adjust the cable in (remove the slack) will that then also adjust the transmission brake also then, or is that a completely seperate adjustment?

Again the service manual will be coming on Thursday, and I hope this all makes more sense then. Until then I am curious with questions.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 10:23am

With the inching pedal clear "up", there should be .010" to .030" between the inching spool and the lever that pushes it in. You will have to force the inching spool inwards to get a feeler gauge inserted. Basically, they don't want the spool to be bottomed out. The "trans brake" adjustment is under the instrument panel directly above the inching pedal. Takes a short 3/4" wrench to adjust it where you want it to be. You should be able to come down just to the brake zone and not apply the brake. When you depress the pedal another inch or so, the brake then comes on.

Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 10:53am

The cable doesn't do anything but shift the rack for each individual speed. All the rest is done with mechanical linkage.

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 12:51pm

i put all new cables on 8070 PD and adjusted per book. Even used the gauge on the clutch brake circuit. It worked fine before except at first cold startup. Now you need to put in gear before startup or the grinding never stops. Warm its fine. I think I need to go through it again because it's annoying.

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 1:47pm

Interesting with the 8070 PD. We have a small 200 acre farm, so I hope bought a good tractor, and a little worried that I might have something starting with the transmission and won't be able to afford to fix it.

I am still learning about the PowerShift transmission and why it acts the way it does in cold weather. As I said earlier the transmission brake doesn't want to seem work well when the tractor is cold, but as it warms up it works great. I don't think this is a factory spec and how it was originally suppose to work.

I have been reading because it uses a wet clutch vs the dry clutch that the Power Director transmission uses that the transmission grinding is happening when cold because of the cold oils in the tranny. The tractor shows signs that the transmission has been worked on prior. Other than the oil being cold did Allis have something in the transmission to prevent the grinding from happening when cold?

Also any reason why the transmission shutters when starting to go into reverse with a wagon loaded with 200 bushels or corn? I don't think that is a heavy load for that tractor on flat ground.

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 1:54pm

Dr. Allis that for the help. It looks like I am going to get rained out of the fields here in the next few days, and I will pull the tractor into the shop and that a look at it then.

I am a school teacher "In Person" and can only make it to the farm on the weekends which is an hour away. From the sounds from everyone that adjusting it should be easy. Would 1-2 hours be a safe bet to plan for on the adjusting?

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 3:40pm

15 minutes for an old AC Tech.

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 7:42pm

Dr. Allis that is good to know. I am excited to try my luck at adjusting the trans brake and the inching clutch this weekend.

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 8:13pm

No dry clutch in PD in 7000 & 8000 series. It uses the hyd wet clutch pack in low speed of the 2-speed PD.

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 8:28pm

SteveM c/il is right, only 7000 series to use a dry clutch was early 7000. MACK

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 6:52am

Thanks everyone for the comments. I am researching and learning a lot. I still can't come across a reason why the tractor (transmission) shuttered/jolted in reverse with a 200 bushel wagon. Some comments on other posts said the clutch might be warped a little, but that didn't seem to make sense because it didn't do it in any of the forward gears.

Does anyone have thoughts of if I adjust the clutch peddle position, so it engages differently, would that help with the jolting in reverse?

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 7:02am

LOW range reverse ??? Or HIGH range reverse ??? No. Adjustment of the inching pedal isn't going to do anything for your shudder complaint.

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 10:06am

I notice the shuddering more in high side. I noticed it when I pulled up to he auger to unload and went a little to far. Maybe reverse was not meant to carry any load? It does not happening when the wagon was empty.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 10:57am

It's probably one of those tractors with the dual flyball clutch packs in it. Won't do it when cold, but may do it when hot. Using HIGH reverse for backing up a wagon is easily avoided by using LOW range.

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 12:18pm

Thanks for the advice on using low range when backing up :)

I will have to do research as to what the "flyball" does in the PS transmission.

Again thanks for the help. I appreciate any advice. I am just trying to make sure I purchased something that will not have transmission issues in the upcoming weeks.

Posted By: Joe(IA)
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 8:04pm

Don't loose sleep over the shudder sensation when putting in reverse. We have a 7060 PS and it has done that shudder sensation for years with no real impact on PS performance. Fwiw you are getting advice from the three best mechanics on the Allis forum (Doc, Mack and Lynn) bar none!!

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 8:36pm

Thanks for sharing your knowledge with your own 7060 PS. As I said in an earlier post, I am 42 years old and always grew up with PD transmissions on the farm. I have nothing to compare the performace of Power Shift transmission to. With my Dad passing away last year, I don't have his wisdom to pull from anymore.

If you don't mind me asking does your PS tractor act funny also in the colder weather? I am not really worried about it because I know it is due to the oil being colder and thicker. I just wonder if issue happened also when the tractor was new back in the 70's.

Posted By: Joe(IA)
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 8:51pm

Most of our new AC tractors were PD also. Never had a new PS. The 7060 PS we have now gets used on a ton of different jobs. Most recently on a round baler baling stalks. Cold weather is just tough on any transmission until it gets warmed up. Hell I have a pretty new Magnum and Steiger that don't like to move well when its cold.

Posted By: Dan Hauter
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 9:40pm

That's a good looking 7060! Nice picture. I have 2 7060 Power Shifts, 1 is a red belly, and the other is a black belly. When you push the clutch pedal down all the way you should be able to feel increased pressure toward the bottom of the travel. That's when the transmission brake is engaged. My black belly 7060 is much "tighter" and "smoother" when shifting. The red belly is "looser" shifting but has always performed very well. If the "closest" AGCO dealer was closer than 70 miles I'd probably have a mechanic come out to adjust the red belly. Good luck in adjusting yours!

Posted By: Tenn allis
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 5:38am

Gonna jump in and ask if the inching pedal can be adjusted on my 8070 ps The brake seems to be engaging too high before you get to lower end and gets harder to push and seems to be releasing very high. If it can be adjusted start at pedal or valve

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 5:56am

Wow, Thanks for all the comments. The transmission brake on the 7060 PS also engages before I hit the increased pressure zone in depressing the clutch towards the end that you are talking about. It seems like the brake got more agressive as the transmission got warmed up and was engaging before that zone.

The service manual should be here today or tomorrow to use for reference when I attempt adjusting the transmission brake. I hope to make it to the farm on Sunday and work in the shop since mother nature finally decided to make an appearance again in Iowa which will keep me out of the fields.

I am very proud of keeping the orange going on the family farm. With all the comments, it sounds like I have nothing to worry about with the transmission.

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 5:58am

To my knowledge the Power Shift transmission is pretty much the same between the 7000 series, and the 8000 series. I think you should be able to do the adjustments also.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 7:13am

Tenn allis……….you start all adjustments with the inching spool (.010" to .030" from clear in) and then the brake zone, which is above the inching pedal.

Posted By: Tenn allis
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 7:23am

Does the fuel tank need to come off to adjust the spool the tractor is a couple miles from me can’t look at it right away. Working some ground with it now will it hurt to use it that way till I get finished in a day or two

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 1:33pm

No to my knowledge, it should just be removing the driver's side plate on the dash by the clutch to expose the linkage. Correct me if I am wrong. The service manual came today. I will look at it when I get home.

Posted By: Tenn allis
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 3:11pm

Thanks I’ll get it home and check it out post what ya find out in the manual

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 7:35pm

The serive manual is interesting to read. That makes sense why the aux fuel tank has been removed now. The tractor has shown sign of tranmission work prior to buying it.

Dr. Allis, the book says that I need two 300 PSI gauges to test the brake pressure, and they should both be at zero with the tractor in park the transmission is in 3rd gear. I understand the one gauge goes to the brake test port, but could you help me understand where the 2nd gauge would go? The book doesn't explain that well.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2020 at 7:06am

I don't ever need to use any gauges to adjust the inching spool (first) and then the tranny brake (second). I don't really even need a feeler gauge and don't really remove the fuel tank either. I use gauges when I have a problem, and these two adjustments aren't considered a problem.

Posted By: tthams
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2020 at 11:04am

Thanks Dr. Allis,

I was hoping to look at the transmission brake for pressure readings on Sunday. When the transmission is cold it seems like the transmission brake doesn't want to work, but as the oil warms up the transmission brake gets aggressive and wants to stop the tractor the moment I get past the inching zone on the clutch peddle. That is why I am thinking I need to look at the gauge readings when it is warm. I am wondering what the readings are.

Posted By: Tenn allis
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2020 at 5:37am

Gonna get the tractor home today think I’ve got to pull auxiliary tank anyway got a hydraulic leak on the right side. Them lines are getting some age on them this will be 3 times I’ve had to pull tank to fix a line in the last couple years.