I use the CS130 series alternators on my D14s, used the genny pulley(burbgun removes it from genny). All had different 'configuration' of mounting brackets,cheap am I, though a 'real' bracket is available.

The CS130 is a smaller unit so no tin 'rework' necessary. If you get one from scrapyard($10 ?) be SURE to get the connector and 6-8" of wiring !

gennys take all day to recharge a battery, alts do it fast.

Jay

As Jay mentioned, the "CS" series pint size Alternators work quite well in tight spots, or with engines that have a few more accessories up front hanging off the engine. Most "CS" series Alternators output are in the 90 amp area which is overkill on a Tractor, but its capible of handling any extra loads that may be put on the system on occasions such as sprayers etc. when needed. (Doesn't mean the Alternator is going to constantly put out 90 amps, its just going to supply whats needed for the system) Some of your Denso Alternators work well in tight spots to. Because these Alternators are metric also, the lower anchor bolt if using a 3/8" bolt will be a little loose in the anchor hole. It will tighten up after all hardware is tightened including your adjusting top bracket.

One thing to be aware of when using a "CS" series Alternator, is there are two different CS series Alternators. There's the CS130 and the CS130D. These are the smaller case versions of the CS series. The CS144 is a bit larger. The plugs are different from the first Generation CS and the second. They both will hook up the same.  The second Gen CS came out in the late 90's.  Also, there is a couple different ways that you can hook up the CS series Alts.  Using the "L" terminal on the Alternator with a warning light wired into the system, (for resistance and a warning system) or using a resistor in line to compensate for no warning light.  Its not a good idea to run a full 12V's to the "L" terminal on the CS Alternators. You could take out the unit. I always prefer the warning light on the dash method, as the warning light is an attention getting signal of a problem. Such as a the belt coming off or a non charge issue. In my "D" Tractor retrofit kits I build, I use a small bulb pilot light for a dash lamp. The warning light I use has a 1895 bulb in it. You can also use a 194 bulb or a 57 bulb, or any gauge kinda bulb. This will get placed between the ignition switch and the "L" terminal of the Alt.  The bulb in the warning light will conduct a very small amount of current from the ignition switch to the "L" terminal on the Alt. This very small amount of current from the warning light bulb will turn on the electronic VR inside the Alt and start the charging process once you fire the engine.  Once the Alternator starts putting out 14V's, back to the warning lamp, and the ignition switch sends 14V's to the other side of the lamp, the lamp goes out with an equal amount of voltage on both sides of it.  Anything that may stop the Alt from putting output current out (like the fan belt poppin' off) will cause the "L" terminal to ground the warning light. When the Ignition switch is sending 12V's to one side of the lamp, and the Alternator is supplying a ground on the other side of the warning lamp, "Bingo" the light comes on telling you Houston, we have a probem. That's why I prefer the warning light system the best......  HTH   Sorry for the long post.

Steve@B&B