HD-10W clutch plate not releasing
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=173809
Printed Date: 02 Dec 2024 at 9:57pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: HD-10W clutch plate not releasing
Posted By: Darkmafia1950
Subject: HD-10W clutch plate not releasing
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2020 at 11:01pm
Hi, I was wondering if anyone can give me suggestions of what they think is wrong. I've tried spraying the clutch release bearing hoping that might be the cause all to no avail. I have tried also adjusting the clutch a little but hasn't done much.
I also was able to see everything that is moving in there from the three cam arms pushing the clutch plate back moves just fine. The engagement lever is stiff and cannot move but it stops about half way then it stops.
Also if the pilot bearing is shot does anyone have a recommendation of what part number it is to replace it?
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Replies:
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2020 at 7:17am
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frictions and steels probably rusted and not releasing. Have you tried washing the clutch procedure? or pushing while holding the clutch lever back?
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Posted By: Darkmafia1950
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2020 at 7:44am
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I haven't tried to clean it yet which would probably be a good idea. I also have tried moving it while holding it engaged but it didn't do much either. I got it to release more and engage the lever about 3/4 of the way but once I stopped moving it and let it sit for a little. It went back to the same problem can pull it half way back but will not move. Because the clutch is stuck engaged meaning I have to start it engaged in gear to get it to move.
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Posted By: Darkmafia1950
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2020 at 7:49am
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From what the last owner said they let it roll down hill in first gear backwards and then it got stuck engaged and wouldn't release. So they drove it back home and parked it.
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Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2020 at 8:21am
oh this is main engine clutch then? sorry i was thinking steering clutch. have you tried backing off the adjusting ring. can you see the cams moving? its possible the liner is coming off the disk and has wedged tight to pressure plate and flywheel. could also be the bushing inside the clutch release yoke is siezed to transmission shaft. we had a 10 that the bushing was worn out almost to the cast, so we had a new one machined but the tolerance was too tight and it galled in the first 30 seconds and you could not get into gear or stop the machine if it was started in gear. replaced the bushing and been good ever since. unfortunately on those models you have to pull the engine to work on the clutch.
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Posted By: Darkmafia1950
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2020 at 6:24pm
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Yeah the clutch plate arms move no problem. Everything else is released and can move on the shaft. But the clutch itself is permanently engaged I can start it and it moves perfectly. It just is stuck engaged. The best way I can explain it is from the clutch brake to the engagement arms moves and isn't stuck. But the clutch and clutch plate itself won't disengage.
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Posted By: Darkmafia1950
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2020 at 6:34pm
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I have backed off the adjusting ring a little bit and it did help alot. But I still am in wonder if it is actually too tight. Because the other day I sprayed inside the bushing spot hoping it would help. Which it did. I was able to get it to click back into place but not all the way it engaged at 3/4. But as soon as I shut it off and it rolled back a little it didn't engage at all. I could no longer get it to click into place and back to being about 1/2 way.
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Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2020 at 9:44pm
sounds like something has come apart and wedging in there since backing it off helped but then got tight again. I thing pulling the engine is in order to see whats going on.
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Posted By: Darkmafia1950
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 12:47am
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After doing thousands of hours of research. I figured out what happened. When it was in use someone let it roll backwards in 1st and what it did was oddly enough push the pilot bearing forward enough to not get oil. I've been going through everything and restoring it which comes with a interesting learning curve. Have you ever seen a true heavy M1 ? I found one at a wreaking yard and it looks awesome. Fuel tank is 156 gallon has a big enough seat to fit about 3 to 4 people and has wider fenders than the typical HD-10W. I also figured out that the HD-10W and Heavy M1 tractor are two different tractors. Both had same engine, frame, but the M1 heavy has a rear end more like a HD-14 with dual hooks. It's just crazy.
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Posted By: Darkmafia1950
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 12:55am
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I always believed they were one in the same. But more I've read they are actually pretty different. They also called the TD-18 the heavy M1 tractor as well. But my question is why would they have a manual for a so called heavy tractor M1 and a manual for the HD-10W as well as the normal HD-10 yet they are similar in design so why would the heavy M1 need a manual if it isn't a separate variation of the HD-10W?
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