Steering wheel changeout...
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=172441
Printed Date: 08 Jun 2025 at 11:08pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Steering wheel changeout...
Posted By: AllisD17AndyOk
Subject: Steering wheel changeout...
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 5:36pm
Hey guys...new steering wheel for D17 series 3, and wondering which one of you can tell me how to remove the old one (yes, I removed the big nut). After soaking with penetrating oil and hammering with shop hammer, I'm at a loss for the need of the big nut, that steering is not about to come off going across the field... Thanks for any advice, Andy
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Replies:
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 6:37pm
Had to use my gear puller on my old D 15 steering wheel . Be careful not to damage the threads on the steering shaft . HTH
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 9:14pm
Cut through steering wheel and hub with 4 1/2 grinder with cut off disc. MACK
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Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 9:22pm
I'm with Mack on splitting the hub if your replacing the wheel.
------------- 1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Posted By: AllisD17AndyOk
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2020 at 4:50pm
Mack, do you cut all the way to the splines or stop short and drive a chisel to spread the cut. I'm leery of cutting into the splines, I guess the remainder of the splines will hold, seeing as of how the old one is holding on...Appreciate the help, Andy
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2020 at 5:06pm
SLIDE HAMMER... dang it's taken me all day to figure out the name of the thing..... attach to steering wheel and wam...., maybe 2-3 wamms ...... the 'shock' or 'interia' should get it off unlike a 'puller'.
Jay
------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: gerkendave
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2020 at 6:56pm
I tried pullers and penetrating oil on my 190. Ended up using a good saws all blade and cut twice both at an angle. Got the splines a bit but it doesn’t hurt a thing.
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Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2020 at 7:05pm
I was going to leave my puller on my wheel under pressure all night . Before I could get out the shop door it came off with a POW ! It was on there pretty good . Thanks
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2020 at 9:03pm
Splines are a tight fit, so if you hit them some you will be ok. MACK
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Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2020 at 9:13pm
Just took one off a Gleaner E. Took the nut off, lot of penetrating oil, center punched the head of a bolt and dropped the bolt into the steering column. Got large gear puller , torqued up to the point that damage was going to happen. Hit the head of the puller with a big hammer and off it came. I did this because I wanted to save a perfectly good steering wheel before the rest went to salvage. I've painted a few gray Gleaner wheels cream for tractors and they have stood up well.
------------- Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed
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Posted By: AllisD17AndyOk
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2020 at 9:31pm
Thanks to all for comments...used Mack's idea, brought cutoff discs for my angle grinder, knocked off plastic around hub, then sawed till I hit shaft. Still the dickens to get off, had son with big screwdriver pry bar in the sawed slot while I pulled and wiggled the wheel...it off...hooray. Now another question, how much space for the shaft to go up and down, u-joints appear to be in great shape, the slack goes all the way to front gear box. I know that the power steering requires the shaft to go in and out to trigger the power assist. Do I need to add washer spacers to tighten the up and down? Thanks, Andy
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2020 at 5:44am
hay, it came OFF !!!! whew .....gotta be happy !!!
I cut TWICE on 'things stuck on shafts' that HAVE to come off no matter what . One cut isn't enough to release it, two always does but makes it 'interesting' to repair the 'thing' later......
------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2020 at 7:25am
I'm sure you have tons of up and down movement. This is because there is/was a wire snap ring under the steering wheel that is to control the downward movement of the steering wheel shaft, and it has popped out of its groove. I had mine apart last winter and decided a better fix was to stack a pile of correctly sized flat washers between the steering wheel and the tube to get no more than 1/8" up/down movement. Be sure to oil or grease the tube while the steer wheel is off, as it is dry and rusty inside.
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Posted By: AllisD17AndyOk
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2020 at 10:49am
Thanks DrAllis, The wire snap ring had indeed slide up against the steering wheel and due to wear between the steering and the column, was flat like a regular retaining ring. I was wondering how a flat ring would stay in a round groove, now I know it used to be round. Oiled the tube and going after washers. This tractor is getting there.... Again thanks, DrAllis, and Mack, and all the others who gave advice. Andy
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Posted By: AllisD17AndyOk
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2020 at 2:57pm
Got washers, measured and remeasured for proper thickness before I put the new steering wheel on, put it on loose and drove it straight to a tree and adjusted until I got it where the emblem would be level when driving straight line. Now I need to know how to drive the steering wheel further on shaft so I can start the nut. I used a big socket and hammer, it wouldn't move, don't want to damage the column hitting to hard... Any advice, thanks, Andy
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Posted By: AllisD17AndyOk
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2020 at 5:23pm
Never mind, I went back to shop and started tapping the socket gently on the steering wheel and all at once it slid down the shaft. Now I find I needed more washers than I installed, and the new steering wheel refuses to come back off...oh well... And the bottom of the steering hub is rubbing badly against the draft control lever...out of the frying pan and into the fire...aint buying another new steering wheel. Thinking (I know) about removing the draft control lever and grinding a little off the top and end to clear the hub...is this ok??? Thanks Andy
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Posted By: AllisD17AndyOk
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2020 at 9:54pm
Never mind, again, went back to shop, climbed on tractor, feet on top if clutch and one brake pedal, knees tight against both sides of new steering wheel, heavy center punch and hammer to steering shaft, couple blows, new steering wheel off, added two more washers (total of five) put it back on, now I have Dr. Allis goal of no more than 1/8 inch slack, and the hub doesn't rub against the draft control lever. Rah Rah Hooray!!! Two days to change steering wheel, reminder to you guys, don't ever hire me by the hour to work on your equipment... Thanks to all who helped me along on this project...Andy
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