Cork gaskets
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=171771
Printed Date: 07 Oct 2025 at 9:56pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Cork gaskets
Posted By: AveryD12
Subject: Cork gaskets
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 7:27pm
Trying to stop a couple of leaks on the D12. Received 2 new cork gaskets today. Looking for advice on best method to install them. 1 leak is where the oil filter base bolts to the engine block and the other leak is at the sediment bowl. I have read the sediment bowl gasket should be pre-soaked. (In what and how long). Does the same thing apply to the other gasket or should I use gasket sealer/adhesive. I know there is a lot of experience of the forum and have gotten good advice here before.
Thanks for your help
Avery
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Replies:
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 7:31pm
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oil filter base leak could be someone tightened it down tooooo tight and warped the base. I put a sheet of sandpaper on a granite countertop ( no, not the wife's kitchen....) and got the base perfectly flat. I've never presoaked the bowl gasket but heard finger tight NOT Snug is correct...
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: AveryD12
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 8:18pm
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That sounds like a good idea. I will check the base while it is off. I don’t have a piece of granite (except the one that would get my tail in the ringer if I used it) but I have an old craftsman table saw with a flat surface. That should work just as well. I will remember not to over tighten that sediment bowl gasket. Should I use any gasket adhesive on the oil filter base gasket
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Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 8:24pm
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If the base is flat sealer shouldn't be needed. I have brushed aviation permatex on just to be safe on occasion. I only use adhesive in I need to hold the gasket in place to make installation easier.
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 8:33pm
At the dealership I worked at, the oil filter base, if I remember correctly, the gasket was put on dry after taking a flat file over it to make it true again.
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Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 8:38pm
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No need to pre soak the sediment bowl gasket, and definitely do not use any sealant on it. Make sure you put the assembly together in the correct order:
1 - Gasket 2 - Screen 3 - Bowl As mentioned above, only tighten the bail finger tight.
Regarding the oil filter base, do not over tighten it either.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Posted By: AveryD12
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 9:25pm
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Thanks to all. Sounds like good advice
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Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 10:12pm
On the sediment bowl, give the bowl a twist just as it's getting tight. That seems to help it seat better.
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 11:51pm
I think it was Charlie Tucker that said to fill the cavity inside the filter base where they warp from being too tight with JB Weld then file it flat.
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Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 4:09am
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I have a 170 here that the sediment bowl is warped from overtightening. Check that it's not the case for you. I have replaced the cork gasket and while it did leak at first, it has since stopped possibly from finally soaked and filling the gap.
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Posted By: Kurzy
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 6:40am
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Howdy, Best thing I ever did was throw the cork gaskets OUT! Put a real gasket in.
Kurzy
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Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 9:45am
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DSeries4 is correct. As I am tightening up the nut on the bell, I crack the fuel on slightly. If everything is in its proper place, the fuel will fill slowly. I then give the nut a slight more tighten. Most of the time the fuel will stop flowing, at this point. If it continues to fill and there is fuel flowing on the outside of the glass bowl, it may be time to recheck your work and or put on a new gasket. I am not a fan of using ANY sealant on the fuel gasket.
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Posted By: AveryD12
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 12:02pm
Lots of good info here. I’m sure knowledge gained from lots of experience.
Thanks again everyone
Avery
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 10:12am
I had a sediment bowl I couldn't get to stop leaking. I took the pot metal base out of the tank, and without a gasket, set the glass bowl against it. You could rock the bowl back and forth because the base was warped from over tightening.
Since I didn't have a new base on hand, and wanted to use the tractor, I put the base in my old junk lathe and faced contact area off flat. Put it back together with a good gasket and screen and ran it. No more leaking.
The filter base is pretty much the same pot metal and will warp easily. Clean it with brake Kleen and fill the outside cavities on the back side with epoxy of some kind, Then file it flat. You don't need a flat granite surface if you have a good file.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 10:25am
If either piece (sediment bowl base or filter base) is warped, no amount of gasket will seal it. A new sediment bowl complete, is pretty cheap to replace.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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