tag did not come out well:

He is asking $500. Distance is not a issue I could drive it home. It looks like it needs lots of love. Are they money pits? I know absolutely nothing about them. Tell me the good the bad and the ugly? He said I could try to get it running. But where do I start? He said it had spark? It did roll over. 

Regards,

 Chris

Have owned older F40-24 for  many years, although they are the older models that have a manual clutch.  If you were confident that is ran and drove correctly when parked I think it would be a good deal.  I paid $1100 plus $130 to get it loaded on the trailer for the last one I bought.  The forklift was on a dock so had to hire a roll back to get it off the dock.  The G153 engine is a good engine.

Paul

May try to get it started. Also may check with Sandy Lake to see it they have any info on trouble shooting getting one of these running?

Friend Matt (IH) is going to come over and help me try to get it running. If it works I may add it to the collection. 

Concerned about the brakes too! Minor details!:)

John, Yes I have visions of it doing work in a new shop too!

 Regards,

 Chris

 Any great ideas / pictures on getting something into the manifold like carb cleaner, to see if it will fire on that? I really dont have much idea about the propane regulator system?

Regards,

 Chris

Humm I may look at it again.

Regards,

Chris

Any idea what gas carb might work on this animal?

Regards,

 Chris

 Thanks for the hints and tips! Another potential project!

Regards,

 Chris

Finally found this thread again and will begin to look at issues with this unit, which is now in my shop.

The propane tank reads empty when on the machine, but 50% when off and vertical. I learned that the tank has to be orientated properly on the forklift to get the dip tube in the right position. 

Also added a inline spark checker and I did have spark when it was rolling over.

Sure looks like it is need of a tune up. I need to see if i can find the cap, points, rotor, condenser and a new set of wires. It might run without a tune up but they look really crusty.

After a battery charge the engine cranks over. Do I need to do something special to the controls? I know nothing about these! Little steps! Since I have some spark and I think it has compression My best guess is fuel issue.

Regards,

 Chris

yeesh, floors going to get dirty when you clean it !!!

BTW do NOT drive it outside.... if you have to ask, OK, go ahead do it, THEN you'll KNOW why........

every year I get mine,um, kinda, sorta 'stuck' and it has BIG tires on it....

looks like a fun project though and they are very very useful ! I loaded a sled onto a trailer today, made $10 !

Jay

 Yes I realize this is not a outside unit.  I dont have a clue what I might doo with it? But several times when I was swapping rear wheels on a WD series, it might have come in really handy, and much safer!

Much like my other toys, handy, not necessary. 

The floor: Well I plan on using the building. Not going to abuse it. I do have diapers under all the tractors! That OH door package material is a perfect size.

Just got the wide front WD in for the night. But my D17 needs to come home this week and get in the shed too. 

So I tried this forklift several times and it almost acted like it tried to fire once or twice. There may be hope for it yet. Neighbor was going to send it to the scrap yard. Wait maybe he did send it to the scrap yard next door!

Wished I would have got a picture of him backing up  his skid steer, pulling me backwards on the fork lift down the road! 

Regards,

 Chris 

Agreed the scrap value maybe a couple hundred dollars. Hoping I can get it to run. Just calling around to try and get info. Pretty sketchy at best. Several contacts from Brenda at Sandy Lake. 

Pulled a plug and they are Champions. Not my favorite!

I see a fitting at the back of the carb/ mixer that is not hooked up to any thing and looks like a steel line like a vaccume line should be attached there?? It doesn't seem to be plugged off. So I assume it is open into the carb/ mixer. I did not see a place that a line might connect yet. Still learning!

Regards,

 Chris

 My Dad went through thousands of Champion J8 plugs in WD series tractors! This one from the forklift looked good and the one I pulled had good spark. It is back in there but still no start. Seems to be a fuel issue? More work to do in that area. I believe this maybe a 1972 vintage machine. And I think after talking with a service tech that it may have been a dual fuel system?? I removed the open fitting at the back of the carb and put in a small brass pipe plug to close that off. Attached the air cleaner hose with a clamp and still no start. 

Cracked the propane line going into the solenoid valve and had pressure there. 

Still not comfortable with the whole propane thing yet. More to learn I guess.

Regards,

 Chris

 Thanks for the support. My understanding is parts for these could be hard to get? At this time I am a little gun shy on things like gaskets or diaphragms? 

Regards,

 Chris 

Steve@B&B

 Thanks, More research and some work and learning along the way too.

Couple of things. I have really never learned much about LPG. So today I took my tank off the F40 and went to a local guy that fills tanks. He hefted the tank and said yep there is still fuel in there. I told him I was not getting anything but compressed gas from the tank. Humm? He screwed on a fitting and opened the valve. Liquid propane should have come out. (white cold frosty), nothing! Looks like bad valve on the tank! He let me borrow his spare tank. I tried it and had propane to the solenoid. Wasnt sure if the solenoid was working so disconnected that and rewired to try. Yes it worked, opened with the key on, and allowed liquid propane to pass through. I then took the diaphragm assembly off the forklift and proceed to take the covers off and carefully remove the gaskets and diaphragms. I found nothing broken or damaged. But one small diaphragm off to the side looks like it should have 3 wires to it and there is nothing. Looks like a very small plunger ore electromagnet moves the small diaphragm???

Done for the night!

If any one has suggestions to move this over to gasoline please advise. I may get it on propane but may take a while!

Regards,

 Chris

I found my F40's were great running on packed gravel surfaces. Go easy on the throttle, never steer sharp, never allow it to start synchronized side-ways rocking or you'll be stuck in short order.

Thanks for the support! I think I have all the internal components free and moving and one of the arms that allows LPG to enter was pretty gummed up. I cleaned and removed any sticky materials  blew out all the passages and reassembled.

What I have not figured out is the actual how the regulator works and what is is missing if anything to make the regulator system function as it is supposed to. 

I am wondering since I am this close to the carb/ mixer if I should remove and clean it too? 

Still interested in the dual fuel change over process if anyone can share info? 

I did get a call from Dan at Sycamore Industries and they do not have any literature on these. I need to try JJ Clark. Not sure if this is the same as Clark fork lifts??

Going to learn some more about this machine!

 Weather is beautiful here today!

Regards,

 Chris

 Thanks! I am kind of excited about getting this running. Like a lot of things this looks to have been neglected and or maybe rigged up a little. I know nothing about the brakes but found the master cyl. Will have to look at that if I get it started. Off to the propane expert to have him look at my regulator/s

The red stepped plastic looks like it maybe had wires screwed into it?? I have no clue yet. Except that is a electro-mechanical device with now wires going to it? Not sure how important that is? But they dont usually add stuff just for fun!

Regards,

 Chris

 I bite the bullet and took the carb off. On one hand I am glad I did, on the other not so much. It needs parts.

So it is marked Bendix Zenith Numbers on the tag 

K3-1

13596A

4516566-2

So the story is like this. I have never seen a carb so dirity on the outside!

And I have never seen one this dirty on the inside either. So it needed cleaned.

I really dont know how this thing ran at all? Maybe it didnt??

After much cleaning and scrubbing. I began to take it apart.

This is where the propane comes into the air stream (air cleaner hose) Near carb.

This was the first cap to come off the bottom of the carb. Not sure what this does? Maybe part of the LP system???

Float is junk: cracked and caved in:

Found this acorn shell in there, plus several pieces of mouse bait.

Yes that is the rusted and dirty needle valve!

Mr yuk in here too:

General clean up and regroup tomorrow:

Maybe Steve in NJ can provide some info? I think this could go either way. For some reason I am leaning towards gas. Probably only because I am more familiar with that. 

So could I just find a gas carb and put on this??

Regards,

 Chris

YUCK !!!!!

i have to wonder just HOW it got that bad, though I suspect stored outside, no covers ??

It'd be nice to 'bolt on' another carb and get running instead of converting to gas. 'Little' details like gas tank, fuelpump,etc. might be a LOT more than an LP carb....

At least you've got the carb 'tag' numbers so Mr. Google can find you a carb !

1st hit.... using 13596a...4516566-2

https://www.carbkitsource.com/numbers/Zenith/13596.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.carbkitsource.com/numbers/Zenith/13596.html

another....

https://www.carbkits.com/catalog/details/21

$71 for the kit !!

My vote... new LP carb

Jay

BTW you're having a MUCH better day than me, and the Sun just came up...

 My friend Jim also found a rebuild kit with a float too. I may get that. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/301940394801" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.com/itm/301940394801

On the propane side, this small diaphragm unit on the side of the regulator has me puzzled. It has not been hooked up (no wires) for a long time. The machine must have ran without it working. Wires are long gone.

Ok This is a micro switch which I found a similar one on line:

https://centuryfuelproducts.com/1501-l-switch-assembly" rel="nofollow - https://centuryfuelproducts.com/1501-l-switch-assembly

Maybe this is not hooked up because it has been replaced with the switch ahead of the regulator. I Think it may be doing the same function? Stopping the flow of fuel when the engine is off. Then it opens the fuel port when the key is opened. So Maybe I could just block off this where it enters the regulator??

Now on the carb: If it runs on Propane does the inside of the carb need all the gas items working?? Probably not. So if that's the correct logic the gas items could not be installed and it still should run on propane?? 

Humm? May try to see if I can get propane through the regulator first?

Thank for the support!

Regards,

 Chris

 These are Beam brand regulator parts. I removed the small microvalve diaphragm unit. 

Put the regulator back in place and tried getting LPG through it. Nothing except a hiss of air pressure. Went back to the hose coming from the tank and just a hiss of pressure there too. So I have borrowed the tank from the local garage again. Will try that in the morning.

Regards,

Chris

Call Dave or Phil at Carb and Turbo, 952-445-3910.

I do like the idea of getting this running on propane. 

So the tank I own would only let mostly compressed gas out of the tank. The tank I am borrowing lets a stream of cold LPG out of the shut off solenoid just prior to the regulator. So I may have a bad tank?? 

Anyway I am thinking I can put the carb back together without the bad "gas" parts, and maybe get this to run on propane after all.

What I dont know is if the propane when atomized in the venture has to pass through any orifices in the carb? Or does it just low up into the intake??

Here is the LPG shut off and filter. This seems to be working fine Turns on and off with the key. Had it apart and seems OK.

This is the small diaphragm that was on the back of the regulator and had a small hose going down to a line on the intake manifold above the carb. I have currently removed this and put in a pipe plug where it and the vacuum line attached at the back of the regulator. This microvalve was not functioning anyway due to no wires being hooked up to it And I assume the other shut off replaced it? Could be way wrong on all this!

1/4 inch fine thread pipe plug, brass installed:

Just a shot of where the carb was/ goes.

This is the venturi that allows LPG to enter the system air stream ahead of the cab about 3 inches. It is open (not plugged) May not have the set screw adjusted properly? But LPG should be able to flow if it wants? Not sure how critical these adjustments/ fine tuning are to get flow? I assume it will pick up a vacuum as the cylinders begin to pull air in?

Continuing to learn. Thanks for the support!

Regards,

 Chris

 OK the frustration factor has set in! Maybe propane is real simple, but its not working over here! 

 I cannot get propane to pass through the regulator. There I said it and feel beter. I put the carb back together without the float and needle valve and seat. Plugged all the open ports on the carb. 

So I will do some more research. 

Here is the carb installed, at least its cleaner!

Here I had a hose from the mainfold extension to the regulator. Not sure it helped??

Still no start: Maybe not holding my mouth just right??

Regards,

Chris

 I had missed your post. Just came back here to find the carb tag numbers. Thank you for your comments. I have a lot to learn. Now that you mention this the Propane does kind of look like a add on unit in front of the carb. So I was only seconds away from ordering a kit to rebuild the gas side of this carb. I may go ahead and do that. Sure would like to see this move from its current position.

Do you have any other suggestions/ recommendations on gas vs propane? 

I assume I could add a small gas tank and gravity feed the carb like on other Allis tractors?

Regards,

 Chris

 Right or wrong ordered a kit from Merrill at Carb Refactory, Also new float. So i will try to move this over to a gas carb. Sometimes you dont know what move to make but need to do something to get things off the dime. I will let you know how that all turns out.

 Regards,

 Chris

 Spoke with a friend that has a friend that used to work at forklift dealer/ shop. He may come over at some point and try to get this running on propane. Of course I had just ordered the carb kit for gas, and its on its way too. So maybe with that and a person that knows something about these machines, it may run?

I did pounded the removable side covers back to near straight condition. This is different since these don't have a lot of actual sheet metal. These side covers are about 1/8 inch thick! Rugged to take some abuse.

Regards,

 Chris

 Thanks for the support. I would like to be able to have this at least move! Bunch to learn about these old units. I have never had or operated a forklift. So stay out of my way for a while! Should be interesting. It happens to be in the center of my high bay. About the worst place to be located from trying to move other things around. But may get me to get it going too.

 Regards,

 Chris

I got my "gas" carb rebuild kit today. Good looking kit plus the new float. Was good to talk to someone who knows these carbs. 

(tip of the hat to Jay Miller)

I may have to find a small tank to use as a trial gas supply.

Thanks for the support. Will keep you informed.

Regards,

 Chris

 If I feel ambitious I may pull this carb and install the new float and gaskets and items in the kit:

Need that little gas tank from something? Maybe off of a cub cadet tractor?

Regards,

 Chris

 Great idea! Thanks!

I have a very similar lift. I've  been told it is an ACC50 with the Buda 153G engine.  I've had it  for about 9 years. I use it to R&R boat engines and move boats around. A very useful tool. Had good luck with it, had to replace the propane regulator/converter, tune up, and several hoses thru the years. Right now I have both tilt cylinders and the steering cylinder out of it for rebuild. But all in all it has been a good machine.

Good luck with yours.

Ed

Regards,

 Chris

Thanks! I believe this may be one of my issues. I think it does need vacuum from the manifold to the LPG regulator, which I currently have that hose removed. So that is on the list to recheck. Have been busy with other shop things but getting closer to looking at tghis again too.

Regards,

 Chris

This machine may get set up as a gas unit at some point. Friend Jim brought me a gas tank that would work fine to replace the propane cylinder. With some custom mounting brackets built. Nice tank!

The large yellow one:

The small plastic one on top, from a lawn tractor) could work as a temp trial gas tank also. 

Not moving very fast on this project either!

Regards,

 Chris

 I had a ex folk lift service tech stop and view the F40. He said I needed the small vacuum diaphragm shut off, to make the system work as intended. He checked that small unit out and said it was bad on the electrical side.  So I would need a new one of those. It had not been wired in when I got it so he said it probably was flooding the carb and they got it running by blowing air into the carb to dilute the LPG. 

Anyway I think I am going to try to get this moved over to pump gas. He wasnt sure if I was going to need a fuel pump or not? I was planning to set the gas tank where the propane tank is and just allow it to gravity feed the carb??

Regards,

 Chris

 

You will probably need a fuel pump. I don't think gravity feed will give you the 4psi needed to run the engine at higher rpms. You should be able to get it started with out a fuel pump.

Have fun

 Those were similar thoughts of Carl the service guy. Humm Might have to get a fuel pump too! Thanks for the heads up!

Regards,

 Chris

I'd try it without first.  Most tractors don't have a fuel pump, just the tank above the carb.  You could also wire in an electric fuel pump if it doesn't work.  I doubt if you will be running the engine that fast anyway, being you will probably just be lifting stuff and moving it around the shop.

 Ok i ran out of things on the short list. Well after making out some as always late Christmas cards!

And the forklift loomed up in front of me. 

Pulled off the air cleaner, hose and propane orifice ring assembly. Then came in to warm up and eat Christmas cookies and coffee. Yea this retirement stuff is rough! Oh yea fixed the licence plate light I stepped on and broke a couple months ago. O-Riley had the matching lens cover just like the original equipment lens.

I digress and am distracted with cookies too!

Next I will pull the propane regulator off and connect the water line together. That sounds like a trip to NAPA for some fittings?

Then the carb can come back off and the rebuild will start. Good news is that I believe that it can be saved. And should be able to run on pump gas someday too. And it is relatively clean from the prior adventures. Pictures you ask? Be careful what you wish for!

I guess this was just one of those warning threads to allow you to get coffee and settle in!

 Regards,

 Chris 

 I think you have to make your own! Congratulations on your retirement!

On the fork lift: Well failure again.

Took the carb off. Did my best job of rebuild put gas parts in. Put it on and got a little sputter from the engine.  

Now I have never had a carb like this apart before. it has a vacuum diaphragm on the bottom. Had parts I was not familiar with so I called the guy I got the kit from. I am sure he is a good carb guy. But I doubt I will bother him about carbs again. Some folks want to help some just talk down to you. He would not be high on my recommendation list for carb work or information.

Humm Next moves on the forklift?? I dont know? 

Lets see good news is its not froze up. Seems to have some spark with the old HF in line tester. Gas is getting to carb.  Actually may be flooding a little? 

Added the trial tank:

water bypass hose added:

Carb:

Right now it looks better than it works! Carbs can be a challange! This one may not be correct in some small way.

Regards,

 Chris

[TUBE]YDCmeKs8Zpk[/TUBE]

 Thanks! Yes just ate more for supper too!

Daughter and Granddaughter last night!

Took the carb apart again. Found that I forgot the power valve. And I replaced a small brass valve in the carb base next to the power valve. Part of the fuel pump?? A real pain!

It wasnt pretty:

I found one of the very small holes in the carb throat to be plugged. I think I got that opened. Installed the carb and got about the same results. No start um! Humm. I have spark, May still have a fuel flow issue? But it doesnt want to even try. Will sleep on this.

Wires, Champion plugs, rotor, cap, points, condenser all could be changed. But Was trying to get it to even give a healthy try to start, before I did a tune up and spent another $100 on this forklift! I did take out all the plugs and cleaned them up. No change.

Regards,

 Chris

So I think I might check the valves too. I thought of that. And no I did not squirt oil in the cylinders. It has set for a while so I guess they could be pretty dry. 

I did try some either and really did not get any wounderful starting 

What do folks think of doing a complete tune up when you have a pretty good sparky through the in line spark tester on each old plug?

Yea it sure looks like it needs freshened but using the theory that sparky gas and compression it should run? Well I need go check fuel and compression again.

Also have a GreatGrandson who at 5 is smarter than all of us! Well that's his view!

Yes more cookies too! Cheryl made some molasses ones and they are awesome.

Regards,

Chris

I'm with John(colo) , 2 whiffs of ether see if it wants to start..

When I got 'Troy', I used a squirt bottle of gas to test. With just the right timing and amount of  squirts I could 'play carburator' and deliver a nice mist of gas/air into the carb intake. I ran it for 5 minutes( got tired of squeezing the trigger) BUT it did prove the point... engine would RUN, carb needed cleaning..... Gave me the incentive to tear carb off, all apart and it's worked fine ever since....

Jay

BTW I'm hungry for cookies now....

So the ether was not doing the trick. Back to basics. Gas (fuel) Sparky, and compression needed for it to run. Right?

I checked out a WD carb but it does not have a big enough bolt spacing. This is bigger carb body.

I did spray some oil in the cylinders. No helpy!

1.  Have a good amount of gas flowing when I open a lower plug on the carb bowl.

2. Checked sparky again, yes points have spark and the inline tester shows spark on all plugs.

3. I dreaded pulling the valve cover! It had 1/2 inch of caked grease, all over it!

 SO instead I did a poor mans compression test. took a plug out and put my finger over the spark plug hole and hit the key. Holes 1 and 3 had compression. Holes 2 and 4 had very little compression. Humm? Phoned a friend (Ted the Allis Guy) He said maybe a stuck valve?

I digress: In all the years of working on engines I don't remember ever having a stuck valve. 

Pulled off the valve cover, Removed the rocker arm assembly and looked for low valve height compared to the others.  Set a straight edge across the top of the valves as a reference:

Yep cylinder #4 both the intake (last valve on right) and the exhaust valve had gaps exceeding .050 inch. Yea its not very clean in there. Some oil sludge from 1972!

The rest were zero to  .015 inches max gap, So we have found a issue. Two stuck valves. Cylinder #2 seemed to be ok. I used a air nozzle into the spark plug hole, generous amounts of blaster around the valve spring, and a gentle pry from a wooden pry on top of the valves, working them up and down. Several attempts at this crude process and the valves popped up. Maybe the air pressure blew something out from under the valve seats, maybe the blaster worked its magic, maybe the Allis gods were kind to me?:)

 As Ted describe it: Air from the piston in this this stuck valve cylinder was being pushed backward through the intake manifold and into the carb. Keeping fuel from being sucked into the engine. Therefore not full compression in all cylinders.

I spent a hour cleaning up the valve cover, just couldn't put it back on like that! Valve cover gasket was shot. Someone had been in there as I found a big red gob of gasket sealer where a piece of the gasket was missing!

Called Brenda at Sandy lake and ordered a new valve cover gasket. She said it was the same as a D15D I think. 

So Spun this puppy over, applied some choke and she shuddered and fired up! Massive amounts of white smoke and a cloud of dust. This happened several time for about 5 seconds each time. Ted suggested more choke and good battery charger to help. Tried That and each time she fired right up. No air cleaner in place so the choke had to be used some to keep it running.

Whoooooohooooooo! 

Always good to get something running that has issues! Thanks for the support. Maybe a tune up will be in order at some point too. There is no high speed adjustment on this carb just a idle screw. and idle adjustment for the throttle shaft.

After running for several minutes a lot of oil was spilling over the edge of the head and running down the block. 

I did not adjust the valves either cold or hot. So that may be on the list of things to do before the valve cover goes on for good someday.

Question? How do folks roll the engine over easily to set the valves? On a WD I use the hand crank and turn each piston into position to adjust the valves. No hand crank on this.

Regards,

 Chris

Have a very Merry Christmas!

 Thanks! Yes when I heard it pop I was pleased that the carb work seemed to be ok! Glad I had the help to walk me through the no compression issue! It was much more clear why this was not going to run as it was. So why did the valves hang up? Don't know? It had set for a couple years. 

Strange things can happen when these are old pieces set idle for a long time!

Now I need someone to show me how to operate a forklift!

Ted said he has a original operators manual for one of these units. That may help too.

Have to research the master cylinder also. I would like to have brakes.

Regards,

 Chris

I knew it would happen!  Great news, now for the little things to get it working properly, Good work, Chris!

I can see some more concrete being poured next summer...

Christmas came early for you !!!!! woohoo !!!!

There is NOTHING more exciting than hearing you GOT IT RUNNING !!!

 I used a smearing of grey Locktite 'gasket maker' on both sides of the cork when I replaced my 'modified' valvecover on the forklift. I figured ANY leaking oil would easily show up on, so far so good !

As for operatiing it, go slow  on all the controls and never,ever try to drive it on 'hard' dirt.

but... have FUN, you deserve it !!

Congrats on getting her running. I got my valve cover and grommets at forkliftpartssupply.com. $22.00 for every thing. Master cylinder I purchased from NAPA, p/n M3081.

Good luck

Ed

(You any relation to that Shameless dude??? Seems odd with his 'pretty' and all) Humm??)

I forgot about the valve cover grommets. Thanks for the reminder. That price seems good on the gasket. Will see what Sandy Lake has for pricing, Brenda was checking on Air cleaner hose. I will check on the master cylinder at NAPA too. 

Regards,

 Chris

 Checked with NAPA on the master cylinder $108 new no core.

The forkliftparts supply site is not easy to navigate? Could be just me? Might have to call them?

Regards,

 Chris

I have a brandenewinbox master here.(think they're all the same...).too bad we're in 'lockdown' here, sigh

I'd trade for some cookies....sniff,sniff

Jay

As for those stuck valves... given the sludge under the valve cover, that's the 'lubricant/glue' between the guides and valve stems that made them stuck from sitting unused for years. Penetrating oil on all the valves down the guides, will keep them freed up along with an oil and filter change. As long as your compression is good you likely won't have to do any more for now. You get to have the fun of lifting up your rig high enough to drain the oil. I think this is the common point of neglect with most forklifts to run and run w/o oil changes.

Your saga continues...   

re: brakes. I had 'fun' doing them on my FPD50( maybe 7,000# ?). Made a front tire 'carrier' as tire/rim/brakedrum assy is PD heavy ! Bleeding was a nightmare until I finally figure out one of my new lines was 'humped' and the bubble of air couldn't escape. I tweaked the line so it was always downhill to the wheel cylinder.filled master, opened wheel cyl a tad, let drip.kept eye on master, keeping it full. Once all the air was out tightened things up, been fine ever since.

re: oil changes. I made a set of 'sectional' platforms and ramps from 2by10s. The platforms ae 4 2by10by 6' boards screwed together then sawn into 1-3-2' sections. A 1by6 along the outside of them keeps them together. Once the forklift is driven up and  blocked, I remove the center 3' section of the platform. NOW I have good access to the 'belly of the beast'.  I had it sit there overnight, just to be sure it was safe. Simple 2by2 'blocks' scewed to next to the wheels keep if from moving. While letting the oil drain I noticed that noone had ever greased the double U-joint 'drive shaft', sigh..it's on the list but looks like a 'not-so-much-fun' task to deal with.

Probably the best vehicle I've ever bought.  It's actually MADE me money ! More than the $1700 purchase price.

Jay

 Thanks! Good shot of the old man and the old forklift! After finding what was wrong with it. (stuck valves) I think I may keep the propane components a while just in case! 

No tune up at this point and not sure I have the carb rebuilt correctly. But she does fire right up with a little choke action. Slightly cold blooded like most Allis machines. 

Jay,

 No not that fast for me. But she is butt ugly! Could you post pictures of your ramps? I think I am going to need something like that too! Interesting that you really like the machine. I am looking forward to getting the hydraulics fixed and some trials.

Folks,

Ran into a snag today while Jim was teaching me about using the forklift. Blew a line on the tilt back side of the left mast cylinder.  So decided to try to take the cylinder out. Good plan on paper, not good in reality. Hardened 1 inch pin rusted into a blind hole! Not one of AC's best designs! We played with it using several typical approaches. Including heat and bigger hammers. After Jim left I preceded to break the end off the stuck pin. That was not the plan! 

Called my forklift guy and he is stopping out in the morning to do a viewing! We will determine the point of leaking, and come up with a plan to remove and replace the hydraulic line/ lines.

Jim and I did get a chance to prototype the new proposed gas tank. Some fab work to mount it and that should be solved! Looks like it was made for it!

Small plastic gas tank for now above big tank:

Need about 3 inch base/ frame to allow outlet from new gas tank:

Forgot to mention: Mast tilted in and out, forks went up and down. Machine went forward and backward! That's a start!

Regards,

 Chris

hmm....gas tank...

I must be getting old and paranoid, but I don't like the location of the tank....ANY leak and we won't be getting any more updates from you. The fuel tank for mine is along the right side frame rail, mtd on the inside of it,SAFE from any heat source. I assume that's where the gas version of your would go ? I'd appreciate it you'ld look into it before you commit to 10gals of volatile gas behind your back,above the muffler and hot,hot engine.

re: stuck pin. maybe, just maybe, if you clamp arc welder to pin and 'cast base where pin slides into', crank up the amps, the heat of the current flow will loosen the pin from the base ? I'm thinking haet real hot, add oil,try to turn pin back forth, do all again, several times and it might just free up ?? It'd work better if the electrodes were on the 'tang' of the cylinder and the 'cast base' to free up the pin in 'hidden hole'.

re: ramps,I'll look for a picture but now they're put away. easy to build though. I cut up 2by10by12' into 1',2',3' pieces, 8 of each. Used 2, 3" deckscrews to join2 - 1' pieces together then another and another for a 4 high stack, all 8 'sections built this way. The ramps are 1',2'3',and 4' pieces screwed on top of each other with scrap 1x6 deck boards to make the incline 'smoother'.A 6' 1by4 along each outside is screwed to the 3 sections and a ramp unit, 1 screw per piece. A 2by4 front and back keep the ramps at the correct spacing(center of ramp = center of track), this allows you to turn the wheels a bit when getting on and off.MYsections are 2'-3'-1'-ramp sequence. Once up, scrap 2by2 front and back of the front wheels keeps it from rolling .You simple unscrew the side 2by4 and remove the 3' center section. If you need more height,simply add anotheer 'layer' or 2 of 2by10 to sections and ramps. If you've got any scrap 2by6, use them 'side by side', makes a nice 11" wide section. 2by12 wood be nice, if you have scrap. The idea is to have a reasonably wide,soild surface for the lift to sit on. The center section is whatever 'gap' between back of front wheel and front of back wheel.My front tires are big(outdoor unit), so 2' length seemed right.

The forklift has been a GREAT tool ! Can easily move my 9by12 tractor sheds with it. Neighbour who parts out pickups LOVES it. Lifts off cabs, pulls engines, carries rear ends,tosses 1/2 frames into dump trailer, and he pays me to have fun  with it ! I mad an adapter with a 2" ball to move trailers around and a 'tube with hooks' that goes on the forks. That make engine/tranny pulling  easy and controlled.

Jay

Chris,

Nope, no relation to shamless dude. The gas tank on these machines was originally in the left front upper corner of the machine inside that removeable cover. I also made ramps to get my machine up in the air. Will include pictures with the propane ones.  Just did tilt cylinder and hoses on mine. Crows foot wrenches help a lot with the hydraulic lines.

Ed

Merry Christmas!

So Carl came over today and he helped get this cylinder evaluated. I thought it was the front hose. Nope we determined it was the front seal in the piston:

He had the tools to get down under the cylinder to disconnect the hoses.

The we  rotated the cylinder to the vertical. Since we cant get the pin out this may be the best we can do. I need to check for cylinder rebuild kits.

Snowman, Did the pins come out of your cylinder pivots???? Any pictures?

And your are exactly right Carl ( The fork lift guy) used a long crows foot to get to the hose fittings under the cylinder. 

Also did you do both of yours? And If I may ask where did you get the parts, And Approx cost. I have to decide how much $ I want to get into this unit? 

Jay, Were going to need pictures of the ramp system at some point! 

Your idea with the welder might work to heat and loosen the pin. 

Yes gas tank location may not be ideal? And yes they were on the left front corner of the machine just above the left front tire area.

So the saga continues: Old fart working on old stuff! Sounds about right!

Regards,

 Chris

Chris,

Yes I had trouble getting 1 of the pins out, had to soak it a couple of days with liquid wrench. I did both tilt cyls and steering cyl. Had a shop here in town rebuild them, no time for me to do them, slammed with boat repairs. They charged me $650.00 to do all 3. I also replaced all 4 tilt cyl hoses, the by pass hose from the steering valve to the fitting under the left tilt cyl and both steering cyl hoses. The transmission hoses I opted to do in 3/8" push lock hose and a and n fittings from an automotive supply house here in town. Where did you order your owners manuals from?

Ed

Chris,

Here are the pics you requested, my propane set up is different than yours. The ramps i made out of 2x8s, 3 high, I drive the fork lift up on them and then jack it up higher with bottle jacks.

Ed

Let me try this again

Ed