WD45 belt PTO?
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=170703
Printed Date: 20 Aug 2025 at 11:39pm
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Topic: WD45 belt PTO?
Posted By: krusty
Subject: WD45 belt PTO?
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 7:25pm
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Gang, I was hoping to get rid of a WD45 that came as a package but now that I have started to get it functional again I am growing fond of it. Is it possible to disengage the belt PTO at all? Aside from the engine clutch. I dont really want the thing spinning around if not required for use. Rebuilt the carb. Made an alternator bracket. New water pump this weekend. Lubed up this weekend and fluid check. Needs a muffler and sometimes the starter bendix wont engage. But it purrs like a kitten and so much easier to start a gas engine in winter for pulling a trailer of firewood home. Oh and the hydraulic system seems to take straight weight oil, should I stick with that or put hydraulic fluid in there? K
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Replies:
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 7:41pm
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krusty, nice work getting your WD45 into running order. It's not clear whether you're asking about the pto shaft at the back of the tractor or the pulley mounted on the right side near the starter motor. But here's a little information about both. The pto shaft is disengaged using the lever that's to the inside of the brake pedals and goes down to the pto housing under the tractor - with the clutch, push the knob down toward the pto housing. The belt pulley appears to be disengaged by loosening the retaining screw and pulling the pulley part-way out of the tractor so its gear no longer engages with the drive gear. I use Hytran fluid in all areas of the tractor except the engine and final drives. Others may have other opinions and certainly more experience than I do! How about some pictures of your progress?? And good luck with your '45! Dave
------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 8:10pm
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Loosen the jam nut on the square headed set screw, just inside of the belt pulley and back the set screw out a ways. Pull the belt pulley out about a half inch and re-tighten the set screw and jam nut. Belt pulley is then disconnected from the drive pinion gear. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: krusty
Date Posted: 01 May 2020 at 10:10am
| thanks gang, thats what I was after. will post some pics once the rest of the parts are attached. it is not pretty! |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 01 May 2020 at 2:02pm
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Krusty, They're ALWAYS pretty... you're just looking at 'em with the wrong eyes!!! (Btw... I have a PERFECT face for RADIO...) ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: krusty
Date Posted: 05 May 2020 at 4:39pm
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Still need to make the upper alternator bracket but I put in a new water pump and aside from some missing knuckle skin, all is OK. PTO shaft is bent. Hydraulics work fine. May need a new thermostat gasket. The front main seal leaks a bit, but heck, not any sort of volume to be concerned about yet. Ring gear has a bad spot. Anyone able to post a photo of the hand crank so I can make one up? I just rotated 1/4 turn by hand with vice grips and then it engaged fine. Have a spare good flywheel if needed. Also for that bolt on the manifold to hold the muffler in, is it threaded into the manifold or I heat it and drive it through? A muffler seems over rated so will go with a straight pipe with a rain cap. Tomorrow I will put fuel in the tank instead of my external temp tank. Krusty
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Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 05 May 2020 at 5:09pm
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Put the tractor in 4th gear and rock the tractor using the rear tire. It should move the ring gear past the bad spot. ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 05 May 2020 at 5:51pm
On my WD45 there are two bolts that thread into the manifold to secure the muffler. You may change your mind about mufflers being overrated after listening to that straight pipe a while.  I wonder if ALL Wd45 engines leak at the front or rear or both main seals!! If you decide to go after the leak on yours, make sure you check out Don (MO)'s video on replacing the seals. Believe it's in the Knowledge section. Can you post some pictures? Thanks!------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 05 May 2020 at 6:35pm
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If a guy could rotate the ring gear on the flywheel a 1/4 turn, you'll have a good spot for the starter to engage. I often wondered if that could be done, by heating just one spot on the ring gear thru the starter hole, then tun it with a pry bar without turning the flywheel. The ring gear wouldn't take much heat at all to make it slip on there, I wouldn't think. Have to be careful if there is much build up of oil or crud in there, causing an unwanted fire in the hole! Broken off muffler bolts bolts in the manifold could be torched out if they are rusted in place, then chase the threads. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 05 May 2020 at 8:01pm
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When you shut an engine off, it almost always stops in the same place. Meaning the next time you start it, the ring gear is in the same place for the starter. This may help, don't shut the tractor off, kill it. Put it in gear, hold the brakes at an idle and kill it. Then the ring gear will not always be in the same spot for starting the next time. Leon B Mo ------------- Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself". |