Cracked engine block
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=167495
Printed Date: 24 Apr 2025 at 5:26am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Cracked engine block
Posted By: 68mustang
Subject: Cracked engine block
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 11:15am
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Allis chalmers 1939 wc bought tractor with engine block is welded , it runs perfect, it seaps coolant one area where it was welded, should I grind it down and try to re-weld, the weld looks very ugly. Should I just look for another block assembly with crank ? |
Replies:
Posted By: LouSWPA
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 11:36am
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nothing ventured, nothing gained. the trick to welding cast is to use torches and preheat and then after welding slowly cool it down with torches, and/or wrap in old heavy blankets so it cools slowly ------------- I am still confident of this; I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living. Wait for the Lord; be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27 |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 12:05pm
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If the block is now solid, clean and seal the weld with Belzona 1111 Super Metal. 1. Remove all traces of oil and antifreeze. 2. De-grease the surface with acetone or MEK. 3. Sweat the area with a torch. This will help bring the oils out of the pores of the metal. 4. Degrease. 5. V out the crack and roughen the surface. 6. Degrease. 7. Apply Belzona 1111 Super Metal to the area. 8. After the Belzona has cured, sand and paint.
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Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 1:17pm
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I put Aluma seal in one. Never leaked since. Had one with JB plastered on it, that didn't hole for long. Good cleaning before application is the key to anything holding. ------------- http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/ |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 1:24pm
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This guy doesn't know much about a WD but he seems to know his welding. Welding cast iron without preheating and no cracks. [TUBE]Yopcz-IYDyQ[/TUBE]
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: johnkc
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 3:03pm
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yep! what Clay say's. there are many boat engines out there " fixed"{LOL] that way. ------------- I support the development of hybrid automobiles and alternative fuels as I need DIESEL fuel for my ALLIS CHALMERS! |
Posted By: PDehring
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 6:03pm
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X2 on Belzona, I fixed my M block with it and worked great. Not cheap though. ------------- 1937 M Crawler, 1963 D21, 1964 D21, 1965 D12 SIII, 1970 220, 1976 185 |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 6:08pm
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Where's the leak/welded area? ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: 68mustang
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 8:05pm
| the repair is right along the carb. and intake rubber hose , don’t know how to post pictures in this forum. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 8:15pm
| There have been many of those blocks successfully repaired by drilling 1/4" holes in the block on both sides of the crack and threading the 1/4" holes and mounting a 3/16" flat plate to the side of the block with a gasket and plenty of RTV or Permatex glue in-between. It adds strength to the cracked area and works better than welding. Looks bad ?? Well, how good does a bunch of weld look that seeps coolant all the time ?? |
Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 9:42pm
| DR; your wright on the patch' works very well' fixed one the same way' i put some JB; with a gasket' still never leaked been 10 years on WC. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 10:15pm
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My C was declared dead by a PO after it threw a connecting rod through the carb side of the crankcase. Another fellow who happened to be a terrific farm mechanic made a patch using a piece of soft metal which he formed to the shape of the crankcase. He then drilled and tapped holes in the crankcase about every inch and bolted the patch & a gasket onto the side of the block. He ran that engine for years until I bought it from him. No welding required! ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: GARY(OH/IN)
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2020 at 12:07am
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I patched an Oliver 88 with JB and it never leaked again for the several years I owned it. |
Posted By: cottonpatch
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2020 at 12:56am
Belzona 1212 is a better fit as it’s oil tolerant so you don’t have to sweat it. Also available in smaller kits, and it’s one to one base to solidifier versus 3:1 for super metal. Both good products. ------------- '52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040 |
Clay wrote:Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2020 at 5:24am
The metal patch idea works pretty good, for large holes, drilling, and tapping, too. I hadda jeep that I fixed with jb weld, crack was along the bottom of the water jacket, perilously close to the oil gallery. Its always a good idea to borrow or rent a magnaflux unit, to see how far the crack(s) go. Drill a hole, at the ends, tap and thread in a bolt, at all ends, to keep the crack from growing, taking care not to drill too deep, and into a moving part. Then there's this: [TUBE]Pq0wfU4ZaKk[/TUBE] ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2020 at 9:33am
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Nevada Cylinder Head shop on the west side of Nevada, Iowa welds blocks often. They also can straighten crank shaft bores. Gerald J. |