Pickup dilemma
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks
Forum Description: anything you want to talk about except politics
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=166848
Printed Date: 22 Aug 2025 at 11:07am
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Topic: Pickup dilemma
Posted By: blue924.9
Subject: Pickup dilemma
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 3:50pm
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Hello everyone. Im in a bit of a situation here and need some input as i'm sure some of you have been in this situation before. I have an 01 ram 2500 with the 360 in it. It has 132k on it and 1 spec of rust from a paint chip I foolishly ignored. The engine has developed some mechanical issues as well as the front driveline. In short it would need 3500 dollars worth of work to bring back up to spec. The big items are intake gasket, cylinder heads, and a new front driveshaft. I am a cat technician and will be doing all the work myself. Is it worth fixing this truck or letting it go? I pull my pulling tractor with it and potentially my mother's camper this summer. I have already put a better built transmission in it to the tune of 3500 dollars and other things like wheel bearings and water pumps. The value of this truck in kbb is 8800 dollars. If I do end up fixing it I have a mind to find a good used engine and build a 408 stroker for the truck for some additional pulling power. This will bump the price up another 200 roughly. Thanks for everyone's insight. Being my second truck I have never run into this situation before. ------------- hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share |
Replies:
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 3:58pm
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IMHO Fix what you have and peddle it, once this begins at miles shown becomes a cascade of concerns and trips to bank. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 4:59pm
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You have a 18 year old truck, but miles are not too bad.. I would look at the frame, gas line , brake lines , rear bumper mounts, radiator frame.... how much rust ? Will it last several years ? Do you drive in the winter or just a summer truck ? If everything is GOOD and all you have to do is $4000. of repairs, that could be a good deal.. I tend to get rid of my trucks when they get 15 years on them... but I drive in the winter and salt takes its toll on the frame / brake lines.... and I would have 250K miles. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: fixer1958
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 4:59pm
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What happened that you have to yank the heads off? I know the intake will leak and suck oil but other than that......
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Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 6:10pm
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I think DMiller has the answer. Get something you can hop in and drive. |
Posted By: exSW
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 6:22pm
| Build your engine and drop it in. Those second generation Dodge gassers get shorted because of the diesels. The 2500's especially are tough pickups and 132k is no miles. |
Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 6:40pm
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You need to stop and think about all the new tech on the cars they are selling today. They are real close to self driving with all the colistion aviodance computers. But it is all just getting figured out. Local mechanic telling of the tester device to make sure all the sensors are aimed right costing up to $50,000. To change a head light bulb on some you loosen the plastic bumper and change bulb,but a sensor in bumper needs to be exactly where it was before. You need the high dollar machine to be sure it is back were in needs to be if the colistion aviodance system is to work. That is not the kind of stuff I want to paying for everyone education on. I have a friend with a 18 F150,he brags to me in town traffic never have to step on the brake. At 30 mpr the car ahead stops his truck does too. That is not how I wish to drive. So as long as I can keep old junk running I hope to. But I don't have the salt problem ether. |
Posted By: iowallis
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 7:18pm
| Would a "crate" engine be an option? |
Posted By: Hubert (Ga)engine7
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 9:06pm
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Look at it this way - you are spending much less than the book value of the truck so if you sell it you should be able to get most of your investment back and you are spending a lot less than the price of a new truck. So if you do not want the latest fancy smancy electronics and gadgets keep what you have, with the low mileage you should be able to get many more years of service out of it. ------------- Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God. |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 9:27pm
| Low mileage new trany I keep it and drive till catastrophic failure. If you doing the heads and gaskets your self it shouldn't cost that much. I had the local driveline shop custom build my drive shafts when I lifted my suburban. They were 500 for both shafts. And they put a new cardigan in the front one. I currently have 3 Chevy trucks with over 200k and would not be afraid to jump in any and drive to anywhere. In my opinion your better off with what you know than buying something else. I don't flinch spending money on any of my vehicles there all old and worth nothing. But I can buy a lot of parts for the cost of one new truck payment. |
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 9:28pm
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I've got an '89 E-150, about 150,000 miles. Dusty ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 9:51pm
| It's a pretty good engine with the exception of the heads. Crack.crack and then some more cracks. But properly repaired, no more problem. Leon |
Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 9:59pm
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Like most are sayin here,,it's lots cheaper to fix what you got,,,,you just gotta go by the dealer and price a brand new one,,something like over 75,000,,,and like they say them new ones got so dang many new fangled electronics,,,I'd be afraid to leave the driveway,,,,
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Posted By: jiminnd
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 10:22pm
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If you go different, are you going to make payments? No payments is worth a lot if you can fix yours and still like it, doesn't take many payments to match what you are putting into yours. ------------- 1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner) |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 10:44pm
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I would place an EXTREMELY close focus on the brake and fuel lines. IF the truck has ABS, and you blow a brake line, the ABS pump will kick on and pump the master cylinder dry, onto the ground, leaving you with absolutely NO brakes. I don't know what rocket-scientist came up with the design, but I had it damned-near kill me in my '99 Chevy, and same thing happened to my buddy with his 97 Ram... He was fortunate to be in his driveway when his blew... and he was going slow enough to just turn the wheel a bit, and gently nose it into a tree (no damage). When the line blows, and the ABS pump goes full-snot-till-dry, the ABS pump is shot. At that point, you'll be replacing ALL the brake lines, the ABS pump, and most likely the master cylinder. IF you take it to a shop, they will REQUIRE that all the wheel cylinders and flexible lines get replaced as well, and the factory lines (plain steel) are ALL they will use. IF you choose to keep yours, and it has ABS, bite the bullet and get a full stainless line kit for both brakes and fuel. IF you're even a halfway-capable driver, nix the ABS and put in a 'classic' split-master-cylinder system (with the safety diverter/proportioning valve) so that if you lose a line or a cylinder, you'll have two functioning brakes (rather than none). I personally, would NOT buy a new truck... I have an extreme dislike for all the technotrash problems. If you feel the need to replace yours, find an OLDER platform... a stout chassis, driveline, and a good cab... and put your dollar, blood, sweat, and time into making IT what you want. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 3:27am
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X2 on what ole Dave says,,,,,,
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 6:19am
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So , WHERE can you find the EQUAL to it for $4000 ? You KNOW the vehicle, inside and out , and obviously like it based on doing repairs in the past. If you're going to do both engine and tranny, pull the cab. It's not that hard ( 6-8 bolts, few wires, lift) and allows GREAT access to frame and lines. I decided 10 years ago to keep my '97 F150 with 84K miles on it. I KNOW it, serves me well, comfortable and I can toss 1K year into it until I die and STILL be ahead of buying a new one. In the end it's your decision, heck write the pros and cons on paper...SEEING the list may show you the best choice. Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 6:34am
| And can agree with Jay on list. My '99 gets used so little it rots sitting still. Soon it will get listed on FB Market and CL LOCAL Only for a decent price. Asked the Local Dealer what it could be worth as BB not reality, told me to ad it for $7000 running but note the rust and any damage, can be a daily driver but needs work, be willing to accept Less. The 7.3 with Auto trans and FWD is worth that in salvage. |
Posted By: blue924.9
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 7:24am
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Heads need to come off due to broken manifold bolts and this engine gets worked hard and im anticipating cracks in the head. Frame and lines are all good with the factory paint still on 90 percent of the frame. It never was drove in the winter but I do drive it during heavy snow otherwise I take my rusty pontiac g6. The big items are intake manifold, heads, driveshaft, and the tires are starting to cup so joints will be needed at some point ------------- hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share |
Posted By: blue924.9
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 7:25am
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The replacement would either be a low mileage 7.3 which is still old and could have issues with that too or a newer gas work truck ------------- hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share |
Posted By: festus51
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 9:31am
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I do not k now about Iowa but in KS just the sales tax and registration on a new pu would more than pay for the new engine and other work on your truck. Plus you would be paying high property taxes every year for many years on a new one. ------------- We the unwilling Led by the unqualified Doing the impossible for the Ungrateful |
Posted By: tomNE
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 1:34pm
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I'd fix it as 3/4 ton PU's without rust are impossible to find! ------------- AC from the start of my families farming career till the end! |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 12:04am
| soooooo….you wanna fix it and unload it for someone else to enjoy while you make payments on a different one that may have the same/worse problems than what you have now? you are at the mileage time when things do start to wear out, but is usually still cheaper than buying a newer one. unless you want an excuse for a change? |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 5:54am
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re: but is usually still cheaper than buying a newer one. it's ALWAYS cheaper to fix than buy new ! least up here , north of the 49th. To replace my '97 F150 reg cab, shrt box, 4.8V8, XLT,box liner, trailer hitch is $43K PLUS taxes for a 2018 'version' of it. Yeah I get a lot of 'bells and whistles', useless to me and $$$ to repair. I've spent maybe $4K in the past 10 years(tires,battery,starter,lines,tranny,etc.). She's still a good,solid ride. I could blow $3K a year until I die and I'l be ahead of buying AND truck will still be on the road. If you're happy with your ride, repair it ! ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: ihc pickups
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:15am
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I agree with Festus I to live in KS and between personal property taxes, annual registrations, insurance on the new ones. I can put a lot of dollars into an old vehicle. ------------- Mike |
Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:30am
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Love my 91 Dakota!
I buy parts that are getting harder to find for it when I can even if I don't need it at the time, like the SECM. It is throttle body injected. ------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:33am
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re: KS between personal property taxes, do you mean they CHARGE you on your rides ? If so, how much ? man I hope THAT doesn't come up here !!! ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: fixer1958
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:35am
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That's the reason I bought an 02 Chevy 3/4 that is rust free. Took me a year to find one. Property tax, sales tax, tax taxes, rust free tax etc. Still got tags for $800. Full coverage insurance is $40 for 3 months.
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Posted By: fixer1958
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:38am
Yep...Be sure you keep your name off anything if you are shopping because they will tax you for that too
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jaybmiller wrote:Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:44am
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hmm.. is the tax a percentage ? just curious up here buy a used ride and THEY say what the value is ! THEIR 'black book' is LAW, can't do the $100 deal.....though for $100 you can get an 'appraisal' but if it's lowball, watch out ! Every ride up here gets 13% tax EVERY time it's resold.... ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:54am
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Jay, different states have different taxes... Some states charge high for your HOUSE... some charge more for LAND... some charge for CARS, TRUCKS, BOATS... etc.. Depends on how the state gets its income. In Illinois you pay a tax on the value of a truck when you BUY it... Then you get a $100 liscence and need insurance each year. In Kansas and so others, you pay about $1000. EVERY YEAR for the value of your truck ( assume about $60K)... then you need to get insurance also. In some states you live in a apartment and don't have a car... They STILL WANT YOUR MONEY, so they have to have different kind of taxes. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 9:11am
 That would cost over $125 PER MONTH here! |
Posted By: fixer1958
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 9:36am
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Had a weekend place in MO for several years. Every year they would send me a form to fill out and list everything they could tax, livestock including fowl, boat trailers, anything with wheels or an engine and you could eat it except your dog or cat, everything.... Don't fill it out and they would charge you for that too. Not sure if it was an out of state thing or not.
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Posted By: trace
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 4:17pm
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that's why we trade. need a good travelin vehicle. car companies force you to. gotta 2020 pacifica with full factory 6 years 60,000 mile warranty. no interest loan. ggod to go. ------------- 1955 WD-45 WIDE FRONT W/ TRIP LOADER |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 4:37pm
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Figuring if you go new a vehicle would be around $50,000 to replace what you have . My 2000 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD - I just replaced all the fuel lines on , brake lines about 2 years back , just repaired front differential bearings and now replacing the transfer case . Figure to replace that truck would be around $55,000 or so and figure even at couple thousand to keep it running is still cheaper than new - just put tires on it also another $550 - but with 96,000 it might run a few more years . Then figuring I just replaced 3 injectors on it and a coil pack last year still cheaper than new . If it gives up any more to rust - I have a 82 Chev out back that will have a 6.0 engine in it along with 4WD drive from a 77 Chev 4WD running gear frame that i saved also ------------- Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel. |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 7:16pm
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Cheapest truck you will ever own is the one you are driving right now. I have an old one. 26 years old in about six more months. I would not even blink an eye to drop a new crate engine in it tomorrow if needed. Fix it. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: blue924.9
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2019 at 1:40pm
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Browsing for good stroker kits now. Thanks for all the input fellas ------------- hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share |
Posted By: HaroldOmaha
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2019 at 2:37pm
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Get yourself a 2002 - 7.3 you will never be sorry. I have 2001, bought in 2003 2 wheel drive. I haul skid steers all over the country, have 22' gooseneck and I haul 2 - wd45s one gas and one diesel to tractor pulls and shows from Minnesota down to Kansas and to Iowa. I am going on to 270 thousand miles. the only large repair was a transmission overhaul early on after I bought it. other than that it has only been tires and batteries. O ya I had to fix the radio volume control. buying a ready to go truck will give you a lot, a lot of free time to do other fun things. Wish you luck, and Merry Christmas |