7060 Remote Hydraulic Valve
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=152390
Printed Date: 25 Sep 2025 at 5:25pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7060 Remote Hydraulic Valve
Posted By: ABDave
Subject: 7060 Remote Hydraulic Valve
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 10:37pm
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OK folks, I haven't got the errant tach issue solved yet but I have another issue. To move the hydraulic levers to either raise or lower, it takes quite an effort to snap them out of 'hold' position. I'm using the tractor to pull an earth mover, and it is very difficult to make a small adjustment to raise or lower the cutting edge. By the time the lever is moved out of 'hold' position, the movement of the hydraulic cylinders is too much and the cutting edge comes up too much or digs in too much. Is there a way to soften the pressure on whatever holds the levers in neutral/hold position? I have an I&T manual, but it does'nt cover that. 'till later Dave
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Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2018 at 7:08am
| Sounds like a black belly tractor that needs a new cable for that particular remote lever. Also, there is a spool lever (and pin) located directly underneath the seat on the front of each remote valve that is probably worn also causing high effort. |
Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2018 at 6:22pm
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Too much slop in the cable/lever connections can do that... I'd start by replacing cable ends, then maybe cable. Check Princess Auto for the ball joint type ends. It'll save you money. |
Posted By: ABDave
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2018 at 11:03pm
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The problem, I believe, is the detent balls or pins that hold the control levers in the center position. After the levers are moved from the center position they move freely, indicating the cables are not at fault. And when the cylinders reach the end of their stroke, the levers return back to the neutral/center position. The I&T manual shows a exploded view diagram of the remote valve but doesn't show what I think a typical detent assembly or arrangement should look like. Perhaps it is not within the valve. Hmmmm. 'till later Dave
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2018 at 7:39am
| It is a "black" tractor, right ??? You don't know what you're missing until you install a new AGCO cable. |
Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2018 at 1:44pm
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Dave, Have you checked the relief valve pressure? Put a 3000 psi gauge on a quick coupler end and plug it in the back of the tractor. Then pull the hyd lever in the cab and see what you get. I think it should be about 2300 psi ? (correct me if I'm wrong anybody) There should be a place to adjust this pressure on the valve stack. Each valve can be adjusted separately. I had this happen on a 7050. It had a little rubber plug on the end of the valve. Same problem you're suggesting. Once adjusted it worked fine and it wasn't the cable. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2018 at 3:44pm
| So, in an effort to rule out or rule in the cable, switch the cables between the two front levers and see if it's the cable or the valve that is causing the high effort. |
Posted By: exSW
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2018 at 6:58pm
Just checked my 7010 tonight. It was right at 23-2400.
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Ron(AB) wrote:Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2018 at 8:50pm
The only issue I have had with the remote valves has been leaks. Here is a picture of the last one I took apart.  From what I understand the adjustment on the back of the valve, book calls it "self cancelling pressure" is just for when you have the remote engaged and it will automatically pop off the lever. What you are adjusting is the pressure on the spring for that arrow shaped piece in the middle of the stack in the picture. That angled end puts pressure on the 2 check balls (upper right of the picture in the O ring). The more you screw it in the harder it is to pop off. The only pressure that holds the lever in the neutral position would be the springs on the valve, sooo if it is hard to move off of neutral then the Dr is right probably the cable stiff. If it is hard to pull back to neutral after engaging the remote probably too tight on the self cancelling pressure. Just like the Dr said cables have helped every one I put in.  Thought I would add the page from the FSM for reference.
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Posted By: ABDave
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2018 at 10:28pm
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Well guys, Ron(AB) was spot on, and the picture that LB0442 included in his post explained why. Someone had screwed the setscrews in way to far. I backed them out six turns and now the levers work the way they should. There is still a little resistance coming off neutral but I can now raise or lower the cutting edge of the scraper with smooth fine movements. Thanks everybody. Bye the way DrAllis this tractor is a 1975 maroon belly, SN2157, and the alternator has been changed to the later model. I unwrapped the tape that was wound around the wires near the alternator and found two greens and a brown that have been cut off. There is only one hot wire connected to the alternator and one smaller wire the goes to the tach. That may explain the wacky tach readings. I'm tempted to switch back to a Delco to see if it corrects things, but I'd need to find out which wire goes where. 'til later Dave
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Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2019 at 12:52am
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LB0442, do you have an updated pic from your above post? The pic isnt loading. Working on my 7580, and my cables seem fine, and no slack in the cable ends, but when you raise the implement, getting it to kick back to neutral is quite the muscle workout. Thanks! ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2019 at 8:44am
| I had to delete a bunch of pictures, I was past my limit. I uploaded those 2 missing ones. |