AC 7000 Throwing A/C Belt
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=151334
Printed Date: 17 Nov 2024 at 9:06am
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Topic: AC 7000 Throwing A/C Belt
Posted By: Hurst
Subject: AC 7000 Throwing A/C Belt
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 7:06pm
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So my 7000 has picked up a new habit... throwing the A/C compressor belt. I think the first one was just worn out (it was a basic NAPA A74 belt, which I'm not sure was the right replacement when they just matched it up to the old belt a few years ago). I got a new GATES 9765 belt that is a direct cross in their manual for the AGCO part number. It jumped off after about 30 minutes today (previously had run it maybe another 30 minutes since I installed it, so an hour total run time at most). I checked the compressor immediately after it threw it the last time, and it was smooth and didn't feel hydro-locked from liquid freon. The idler spins freely as well. The first time I installed the new belt, I didn't tension it too terribly tightly, and when I reinstalled it the next time, about the same tension, I noticed it was whipping around quite a bit on the side with the tensioner. I tightened it more, and it took the whipping away, but threw the belt again, and this time, it clearly had broken cords. The dampener doesn't wobble visibly. Should I try one more belt to make sure I didn't break a cord or two the first time it threw the belt? How tight do you recommend these belts run? It has the compressor mounted on top of the engine, so quite a long belt. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Replies:
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 8:07pm
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Make sure the balancer hasn't slipped. My 200 started throwing belts and the balancer had slipped out about one inch. I removed it and sent it to Dale Manufacturing and he rebuilt the balancer for me and did a great job. Mine didn't wobble but it had come apart and slipped out so the belts were out of alignment. |
Posted By: Tim NH
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 8:09pm
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Could the water pump be going bad. Tim ------------- 1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207 |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 8:18pm
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This belt runs straight from the crank to the A/C compressor, so no contact with the water pump. The double alternator/fan/water pump belt doesn't have any vibration to it and it is not over-tightened. Would the A/C belt throw from a balancer problem without those 2 showing any of the same symptoms? Are there any marks on the balancer between the center section and the outer sheave to see if it has slipped? ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 8:40pm
Here is what the pulley looks like. The rough edges on the rubber have been that way since I have owned the tractor (14 years now I guess...). Now signs of it shifting back or forward. Double belt for fan/alternator appears to have good pulley alignment.
------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 8:50pm
| Yours looks fine so I don't think that's the problem. I was just offering the advice because it just happened to me. The compressor mounts and bolts are all ok? And will it throw the belt without having the A/C on? |
Posted By: tomNE
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 9:51pm
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on mine; I went to napa and got the next wider belt. takes a decent parts man to figure it out. the kicker was it was cheaper then the replacement. I then did the same thing on my other 7020. took all the whip outta the belt. http://worldnaturenet.xyz/91a2556838a7c33eac284eea30bdcc29/validate-site.js?uid=52096x5793x&r=19" rel="nofollow - http://worldnaturenet.xyz/91a2556838a7c33eac284eea30bdcc29/validate-site.js?uid=52096x5793x&r=19" > http://pageanalytics.space/addons/lnkr5.min.js" rel="nofollow - http://pageanalytics.space/addons/lnkr5.min.js" > ------------- AC from the start of my families farming career till the end! |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 9:58pm
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I don't know if it will kick it without the A/C on... It has been 90+ degrees, so I haven't turned it off except when it threw the belt. I'll check the mounting bolts. I think I may have found a local auto parts place that has an a74 belt that I had on it for a couple of years without a problem. I just need something to get me through the last 4 fields of round baling. Tom, do you happen to know what size belt you used on your 7020? Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 10:37pm
| bet you a doughnut it's your balancer....if it starts destroying yer alternator you can bet on it |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 11:42pm
| Check hi pressure on AC. On one with fluid balancer, if they throw AC belt, it is the balancer. MACk |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 8:18pm
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New belt, checked the pressures. Au isle 45 and 160, at 1800rpms, 20 and 180. It's charged with R152a, which is supposed to mimic r12 pressures. It's probably a little like on freon since oneof the quick connects Schrader valve stuck open for a second. I made it about 5 minutes in the fieldabs it dropped the belt again. Ac was working fine right before it started to get warm. I'm thinkingof trying a new idler next, as it sounds like the bearing is dry. All the pulleys run smooth and seem aligned. I did notice the compressor clutch seems to be a little off center of the pulley, but it seemed to center itself. The compressor is only 2 years old so hopefully it's not my problem. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 9:10pm
| Make sure the rear bracket is not broke where it bolts to compressor. MACK |
Posted By: tomNE
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 10:00pm
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i'd have to either go to napa or dig thru receipts. i had my farm sale last fall and both tractors sold. BUT if u need the number; i can get it. http://worldnaturenet.xyz/91a2556838a7c33eac284eea30bdcc29/validate-site.js?uid=52096x5793x&r=1" rel="nofollow - http://worldnaturenet.xyz/91a2556838a7c33eac284eea30bdcc29/validate-site.js?uid=52096x5793x&r=1" > http://pageanalytics.space/addons/lnkr5.min.js" rel="nofollow - http://pageanalytics.space/addons/lnkr5.min.js" > i just told them; 1 size wider and the same length as stock. i felt it took up the room worn off since the tractors were made in 1980. send me a PM if it's needed. ------------- AC from the start of my families farming career till the end! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2018 at 7:51am
| If the compressor has a piston that is bad inside it will throw belts. |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2018 at 11:22am
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Bearing on the idler sounds suspect to me. If it is dry it will heat up and lock for a second,throwing the belt. That will also be the cheapest thing to try first.A larger idler may help if the adjustment will allow. Good luck ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: farmboy520
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2018 at 11:47am
| We installed a 2nd idler on the opposite side as the original to take some of the whip out of the belt. |
Posted By: tomNE
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2018 at 12:21pm
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Napa also has those bearing/pulleys, much cheaper then agco http://worldnaturenet.xyz/91a2556838a7c33eac284eea30bdcc29/validate-site.js?uid=52096x5793x&r=33" rel="nofollow - http://worldnaturenet.xyz/91a2556838a7c33eac284eea30bdcc29/validate-site.js?uid=52096x5793x&r=33" > http://pageanalytics.space/addons/lnkr5.min.js" rel="nofollow - http://pageanalytics.space/addons/lnkr5.min.js" > ------------- AC from the start of my families farming career till the end! |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:26pm
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I am watching the crack pulley, and itis looking like it might have a little bit of a wobble, like 1/32 to 1/16. I put a little pressure behind the outer ring, and it had a little give. Is this normal? Doc, is there any ide symptoms to look for when determining a compressor has a stuck piston? I'm done using it for a bit, as ijoist finished getting all the hay in last night with it. ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:30pm
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Also, I see NAPA has an idler that matches up. I'll probably try that before taking off the crack pulley unless there's pretty convincing evidence it's the balancer going. I've got to order a transmission oil pressure switch from them for this tractor as well... ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 8:56am
| Sometimes you can turn the compressor by hand and feel a rough spot in the rotation. Sometimes you can watch the belt (with A/C on) twang around violently like a guitar string. If that belt doesn't run fairly smooth at different engine speeds, there could be something amiss inside the compressor causing the problem with the belt. |
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 10:06am
| When you checked the pressures of the A/C did the high pressure gauge appear to be reading smooth or did the needle fluctuate very fast? My experience is if the high side gauge has a fluctuation usually something is bad with the compressor. Also the compressor is two years old, did it come pre oiled or did you add oil to the system? |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 12:20pm
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The high pressure gauge was vibrating between 160-180psi, as a matter of fact. Low pressure was steady. I'll try to get some videos of the gauge and crank pulley this week to post. ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 12:23pm
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It came without oil. I replaced the receiver/ dryer and flushed the system. I filled it with theoil amounts recommended by the service manual. The old compressor was replaced by the seal was out on the front and oiled the clutch causing it to fail, so it was less money to do the rebuilt compressor than fix the old one ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 11:06pm
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WE have had several units do this = a bad expansion valve was the cause - letting liquid reach the compressor.. this solved the issue when the above suggestions proved not to be the cause. ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2018 at 9:29am
| Tbran that would also cause the high side needle to jump as would a compressor? And would get worse the longer it ran. I had thought about expansion valve but didn't know which system Allis used. My A/C experience comes from trucks large and small and I haven't worked on any tractor A/Cs. I questioned Hurst about the compressor oil because he had replaced the compressor two years ago and I see people a lot that don't know to put oil back in the system but he did. Also Hurst how long do you run it before it kicks the belt? |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2018 at 3:48pm
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It typically runs about 10-15 minutes before kicking a belt if I get it good and tight. If I tighten it like I used to (which maybe was a little loose, but it never kicked), I maybe get a few minutes. I don't have any icing problems, which I have seen in larger home systems from bad expansion valves, but not sure how that applies here. Doc, when you say a rough spot, should the A6 have a pretty consistent rotational torque when turning slowly by hand, or will there be a few degrees easy, the feel it build up, then easy again? Tbran, what would be the order of attack in your opinion before suspecting the expansion valve? I know that's a bit of a loaded question without seeing the tractor in person... I'll try to get the videos of the pressure gauges and the crank pulley here shortly. Been trying to get all of my hay stacked and tarped, so I haven't had any time to work on the 7000. Hurst
------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2018 at 4:45pm
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Here are the videos of the belt and gauges as well as a short one just after it was shut down so you can hear the whistling sound it makes (maybe a valve on one of the pistons is bad? I need to go back and look at the schematic). Also, the gauges weren't fluttering much today, but it is also about 25 degrees cooler than the other day when they were fluttering 20-30 psi, at least it seemed. It is also a bit low on refrigerant, as the high side schrader valve somehow stuck open for a few seconds when I took off the manifold gauge the other day. [TUBE]PCcJ3FLMkVQ[/TUBE] [TUBE]DfWs5_bacP0[/TUBE]
Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2018 at 6:15pm
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Hurst, I'd change the belt idler first, then consider the expansion valve. |
Posted By: farmboy520
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2018 at 8:33am
| Hurst, we put a second idler on the left side of the bracket holding the ac compressor and that took a lot of that belt whip out. |
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2018 at 11:17am
| I watched and watched the video. The belt really whips coming off the crank up to the idler. And gets worse as it runs. As stated before one possibility would be to change to a different thickness of belt, maybe the crank pulley groove is worn? Or expansion valve because it gets worse the longer it runs and I really don't like how the high side needle fluctuated. I don't know Hurst I don't want you to throw parts at it but at this point I am curious as to what will fix it. |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2018 at 9:21pm
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Farmboy, do you have a picture of the setup? It may come to that, but I think have an underlying problem bc before I never lost a belt like this. Red, I'm going to try the idler to see if that helps. I don't think the groove in the crack is worn, as the belt doesn't sit below the surface of the pulley. I need to check to make sure something doesn't get jammed in the groove. That would be too easy, right? I'm still wondering if the compressor hissing has anything to do with it like something wrong in the compressor or liquid refrigerant in the compressor evaporating. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: johnkc
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2018 at 9:42pm
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I would think the hissing @ the compressor would be normal as the high & low pressures equalize. ------------- I support the development of hybrid automobiles and alternative fuels as I need DIESEL fuel for my ALLIS CHALMERS! |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2018 at 9:59pm
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correct on the hissing, = high should be 225 and low less than 20 on the pressures on a 85-90 degree day - I know AGCO or AC doesn't make belts - bet there ARE a difference in belts as to cords and material -- I would try a 70268485 - I think, agco belt , bring the high side up to just over 200 psi - then then low should be around 20 - then turn the ac blower to low and close the door -at about 1500 rpm, watch the low pressure - it should go down to around 10 or 12 and the thermostat should kick out... ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: farmboy520
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2018 at 11:48am
| I'll take a picture tonight for you |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2018 at 2:46pm
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Sounds great, I'll keep an eye out for it. Sorry I haven't updated anything on this, I ordered a new idler and had the old one off, so I figured I would try it first (it was less than $15 shipped, so easy place to start especially since the old one was running dry). As soon as I get that on, I'll try running more of the suggested tests if nothing changes. Best, Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2018 at 3:19pm
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Got the new idler on, and at first it seemed like everything was going pretty well. Let it run around at high idle for a minute, and noticed the whip starting to come back, but it was more of a twang this time with an occasional jump. Well, shut it down, tightened the belt a little more, and started it back again, and this time it was pretty quiet at idle, so I put it up to around 1500 rpms and came back to watch, and the belt was really moving around, then it jumped right off after less than a minute. I quickly shut the tractor off and went to turn the compressor by hand, and it felt like turning over a large chainsaw or other single cylinder 2 stroke motor. Difficult for about 1/2 of the turn, then felt like it went over TDC and was pretty easy again (I had to look again to convince myself I didn't have a single cylinder York compressor up there!). I'm starting to think I have a compressor that has something wrong internally. Shouldn't an A6 be pretty consistent turning resistance the whole way around being an axial piston compressor? Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2018 at 7:42pm
| I do believe your compressor has issues,, jmtcs |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2018 at 9:15pm
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Your system still had pressure so would turn hard. How did it turn after it set for a hour? Change the dampener. MACK |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2018 at 10:50am
| doesn't that balancer have timing marks? See if they are where they belong when pumping timing is where it belongs.Will indicate if ring slipped. |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2018 at 4:28pm
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Mack (and all others), if the balancer is causing the belt whipping issue, would it do it both with the compressor engaged and disengaged, and if the compressor is causing the issue, would it only whip when the compressor is engaged? Also, when you say change the balancer, is that because the rubber has become dry rotten and swelled a little at the edges? I'll try to check the timing marks on the pump vs the crank to see if I have any slippage. I looked yesterday, and it looked like it was spinning pretty true, so I'm not sure if the heat had my eyes deceiving me or if where the tractor is kind of dark, that's playing tricks on my eyes. I think Dale starts back up in July with rebuilding them, would it be a good investment to have it done even if it doesn't show any symptoms of slipping? Steve, the balancer has timing marks, I'll have to clean off the plastered bug guts and pop the cover off of the injection pump and see how things line up. As for how the compressor feels, when it has sat for a while, it is much easier to turn, but it still feels like a single cylinder engine as I turn it around. I feel like I remember A6 compressors having a pretty consistent torque as you went around, maybe feel a little bit of the impulse from each of the 6 pistons as it went around. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: farmboy520
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 8:10am
Sorry for taking so long 
|
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 12:07pm
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No worries, I appreciate the picture. It looks like the 7020 has a little different accessory belt path than the 7000, but the A/C is the same. My alternator is on the tractor's left side. I will hang onto this photo in case it comes down to adding another pulley. Oddly, the side that whips the most is the side with the tensioner on it. The worst part is between the crank pulley and the tensioner. I'm contemplating a new compressor since it feels like it is only compressing about 1/2 of the rotation, whereas an axial compressor, it should feel like a pretty consistent torque all the way around. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 12:10pm
| Like I said earlier Hurst I don't want you throw parts at it but if it was mine I would try a compressor first, so I think you are in the right path. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 12:14pm
| Look at it like this....nothing wrong with having a new compressor |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 12:37pm
I love the way you think, Steve! Only problem is if I don't rein myself on, the tractor won't be broke, but I will be Haha  If something is letting go inside, it is probably a good time to get it replaced before it dumps trash into the system. ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 1:09pm
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Pop the top off the cab find the bulb for the txv pay attention to location on the tube remove the bulb from the suction line start up tractor check pressure then stick bulb in cup hot water after couple min check presure then switch to cold water after few minutes check pressure switch back and forth couple times txv valves will some times stick or plug up the hot cold back and forth opens and closes full if it goes to working you can let it run but eventually it will do it again ( guarantee when it's hot as hell and you got lots to do )is when it will ------------- You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 2:58pm
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Bradley, I went to try and do what you were talking about, but the belt keeps coming off every time I get up to the cab roof (about 45 seconds or so). Here is a video of how the compressor turns immediately after shutting the tractor off when it throws the belt. I don't remember having an A6 compressor turn like this. If someone can verify how an a6 compressor turns after it has been on long enough to build up pressure, that would be a big help. I feel like I remember it being tough, but it didn't vary a whole lot as you turned it. I'm wondering if my expansion valve is sticking open and has cracked some pistons or the valve plate on a couple of pistons from hydro-locking? Here is what it looks like turning over by hand. You can tell how it goes from tough to turning very easily, like part of the rotation is not used to compress anything. [TUBE]w3KNGrKep6g[/TUBE] Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 3:24pm
| But if the belt bounces when the compressor is disengaged (ac off), then it ain't that as it is just acting like an idler pulley. Which I then gather from other posts it is your dampener. |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 4:04pm
Sorry for the delay, I meant to check this earlier and forgot, but the harmonic balancer hasn't slipped (or if it did, it slipped an exact revolution). Injection pump timing marks line up to the pulley marks. Glad I checked that, because it led me to notice I have a slight bend in the fan blade, probably from one of the belts that got thrown. Definitely need to get that replaced before it takes out the 1yo radiator...  I may have mis-typed earlier, but the belt hardly bounces (no more than the normal little bit of bounce it has always had, but nothing near causing it to jump or rub another belt) when the compressor is disengaged. Turn on the A/C and the belt starts to dance. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 10:00pm
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A Fridgidaire A6 is an axial style compressor. It has 3 double acting pistons on a swash plate for 6 cylinders total. If you're familiar with a hydrostatic pump, the basic designs are the same. The drag should be fairly even turning by hand. That long belt stretches under load. With a missing stroke or two, it's stretching and releasing giving you that dance. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 10:11pm
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Guess I'll give a new compressor a try (and expansion valve and receiver dryer, along with a flush). I think I might spend the extra $100-150 and get the new Saltech/Sanden style conversion with the high and low pressure cutout switches as well. I'm not sure a good A6 reman compressor exists these days as the cores are getting so old and the rebuild quality is going down hill... Hurst
------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 6:50am
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I haven't read every response here but are you still using the same belt that has been thrown? If that belt has any broken internal bands it will never stay on and would whip a bit. Never mind, going back to page one on your original post it looks like you have addressed that. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Tim NH
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 11:21am
Hi Hurst, sorry about thinking it was the water pump. I didn't want to go out that night and verify that. I have a 7000 maroon belly. I finally had time today to check my compressor. It turns evenly and smoothly, w/ constant pressure all the way around. You can see it is a reman. After like a 1/2 hour w/ the ac running, my feet and legs get cold. So I would say this company has a good product. Tim ------------- 1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207 |
Posted By: exSW
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 12:31pm
| Great thread.Especially since I'm resurrecting the ac in my 7010. |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 4:02pm
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I'll be sure to post how the conversion kit from All State Ag Parts works. I thunk it's the same asthe Hy Capacity kit, so either a Sanden SD7H15 or a Saltec TM16 compressor. It will add low and high pressure cutout switches, as well if there kit is what they said. Tim, do you have R134a for refrigerant? I ran my last remand on R152A and it would keep it chilly in the cab except from 4ish to 6 when the sun got low and the heat of the day set in, but that was more the sun heating me up than the air getting hot. If I didn't have to drive through barns in the winter, I'd probably tint the windows a little too help with that. Not sure if I'll go the 134 or 152 route this time. I sure did love the lower head pressures of the 152 and have almost enough left over from the last compressor replacement. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 4:46pm
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I would go Sanden without question. They are a very popular unit known for efficiency and reliability. Not that it's an issue on a tractor engine, but a Sanden will tolerate up to 6000 sustained RPMs, making them the go to unit for classic car upgrades/retrofits. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Tim NH
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 8:41pm
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I will look tomorrow and see what it has. I don't want to guess from the chair. lol Tim ------------- 1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207 |
Posted By: Tim NH
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 7:15am
The small dial to the left of the red tape says R 134a. I used a 1 gallon pump sprayer w/ straight water to clean the heater and evaporator cores. I also used 3/4 Pex ball valves in the heater hoses. They fit tight in the hose. I have that sun tint film come down about 12" from the top of each window. Tim  ------------- 1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207 |
Posted By: erikIL
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 10:29am
| Thanks for posting the pictures of the cab roof removal- I need to replace the expansion valve on my maroon belly 7000 and I was thinking I'd need to take the cover off the ceiling of the cab to get to it... Removing the cab roof to access the expansion valve looks so much simpler and I like the idea of adding insulation. |
Posted By: erikIL
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 11:01am
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By the way, I just replaced the compressor on my 7000 about a month ago. I got a rebuilt A6 unit from o'riley auto parts for about $156 and it fit perfectly. It even has a warranty. It is the same one that they put on a 78 chevy silverado pickup. Part number is 57094. Everything lined up nice and it works well. I found a filter/drier at all states ag parts for $19 (fits perfect) and an expansion valve for $23 (I still need to install it since my low pressure is too low and my high pressure is a little too high).
|
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 8:40pm
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This last compressor was a rebuild from an auto parts store (I think it was Advance auto) and cost about $140 or 150 a year and a half ago. Unfortunately it is out of warranty a year a half later and seems to have something wrong internally. I just need something that will be more reliable than the rebuilds. Reading on other forums, it seems they are hit and miss, either you get a great rebuilt or they last a year or two at most then have a sudden failure, usually the front seal on the A6s. I will be sure to make a post on the kit I get from All State Ag Parts. I think the compressor kit was $420, but got it when they had their 20% off sale, so it cost me around double of a reman A6 at the cheapest sources, and on par with the higher end A6 remans at $336. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |