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Hd 4

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=148907
Printed Date: 20 Aug 2025 at 2:21am
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Topic: Hd 4
Posted By: Gully
Subject: Hd 4
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 9:00pm
I removed the transmission from a hd4 dozen and I am trying to install the transmission back on to the torque housing but can only slide it on so far and stops. I get 7/8" from sliding all the way back together and it stops . Wondered if anyone had any advice or reason why it won't go together.



Replies:
Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 9:31pm
Hey Gully, I have an hd4 dozer also, and have had everything apart on it in 09. I would think that the turbine input shaft is not lining up correctly with the power shuttle clutch. the back end of the transmission may be too low or high to spline together. you may need to rock the tranny clockwise and counter clockwise to get splines lined up while applying forward pressure to tranny. also remember the tube that is on the hyd. tank side of machine must be installed after housing of tranny and torque tube meet . maybe you have tried all this , I do not know.


Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 9:33pm
the tube is on the shuttle clutch and will not clear the housing without damaging the tube.


Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 9:35pm
welcome to this forum. many knowledgeable people on here to help. Randal


Posted By: Gully
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 7:12am
Thanks for information. I did try everything to make sure it was lined up and didn't work but the tube I did not take off. I had left it on and was trying to install while keeping the two inner lines from hitting torque housing. I will take that off today and see if it will slide in. At least now when tube goes back on I can try to make sure that the two inner lines seal up better. Doesn't seem like anything is really sealing the end of the two lines where they insert into the tube plate. I had been putting silicone around them and letting lines bend a bit as we tried to slip the two together. Thanks for help


Posted By: Gully
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 8:39am
I also am searching for a track link and two pins for my hd4. i had gotten one bound up and had to cut it off. If anyone would know where i could get one I would appreciate it.


Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 3:43pm
You did take the side plate off the right side of torque housing where the lines from the shuttle shifter go in correct ?


Posted By: Gully
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 8:54pm
No I didn't, I broke one of the fitting when I took it off I didn't realize I had to. I replaced the fitting and tried to put it in without side plate coming off. I started over and am taking the side plate off this time. I really think that I need to replace the short tube that goes into the plate they both have a bend just inside that plate and I figured I must have done it when I took trans off. After your reply I was looking inside the housing and believe the little slotted bracket that holds the two tube might have gotten pushed over and the torque housing is probably hitting it not allowing it to go in the last 7/8".


Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 10:07pm
that is what I thought. the damage gets done when you pull the tranny apart and that bends things. do you have a repair manual ? hard to get fixes done without one. you can go online and may be able to find a free PDF to download or search e-bay to find a cheap one. parts manual is good, but repair one is best for understanding better.


Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 10:09pm
you probably will need to change tubes and straighten the bracket to hold the new tubes. bent tube might leak and loose the needed pressure to work the shuttle clutch.


Posted By: Gully
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 7:16am
Yes I do have a manual. When I first started project, axle seals, bearings, new steering clutches, etc, I somehow overlooked the removal of those to lines and am finding out that such a little thing caused a lot of problems. I couldn't even find the fitting that I had broke, because it goes from 1/8 pipe thread to 3/8" flare so after braking the retractor off in casting trying to remove broke fitting I had to tap a 1/4" pipe thread in casting for the fitting that I could get. All because I didn't pull that plate off. I probably should have used this site when I started almost two months ago.. I appreciate the help


Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 12:46pm
anytime you need help, that is what this site is for. I get a lot of advice on this site. let us know how things are going. Randal


Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2018 at 5:47am
Gully. This site is a great source of advise and help. I am so glad I joined this forum.


Posted By: Gully
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 8:16am
Yes I agree . I figure out why the trans was stopping 7/8" short of going in. When I reassembled the power shuttle clutch inserted the hud front and rear (gear) in wrong order so the shaft hit the smaller splines before it would slid all the way in to clutch. Tore clutche back apart and reversed the hubs and slid in nicely. A good feeling to finally have all repairs done to final drive and trans and mounted.


Posted By: Gully
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 8:25am
I did fail to ask if anybody new what the three clutch hud sealing rings actual do. The ring would not clip back together and basically two out of three did brake in half when I tried to install could not find anywhere to buy them so put back in with what I had hope it doesn't cause a problem. Appreciate any input if anyone else had this problem.


Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 1:51pm
these are a must have installed item. they control the fluid for required pressure. they can be purchased from Illini Construction. I hope this is not an APRIL fools joke !!!


Posted By: Gully
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 5:31pm
No joke looks like I'm going to be pulling it back out. Not really what I wanted to do. Thanks for telling now though it would have been even worse after everything was back together. I suppose the same goes for the bigger one on the inside of the clutch. It went back in but in two halves


Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 5:38pm
the items for the shuttle clutch and in general internal parts cannot be passed over. they are item which must go back correctly or nothing works and you are forced to take it apart again. even an o - ring is key to everything working properly.


Posted By: Gully
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 6:15pm
I should have known that's why I put it back in even though they went back , in two pieces. Obviously my knowledge on these components is poor, I didn't intend on going this far and struggled on finding parts when needed. I started project mainly because the axle seals leaked, so replaced the 4 seals, had a machine shop machine the axles smooth and to size. The brake bands and steering clutches needed to be replaced so did that . The last time I was using the machine I shut it off and started it the next day but when I put it in gear it would not do anything. Had to push onto trailer. So I had a auto mechanic inspect clutch (which he thought all looked good) , trans and final drive. Decided didn't want to go any further to inspect torque converter so now trying to put back together. I didn't know about torque converter hydraulic pump till it was all tore down I am hoping to get back together, once it's running I was going to pressure test pump and was hoping that is why it won't go into gear. Does any of that make sense, and are the rings available at Illini construction supply in champaign il. Thanks for help, I am really feeling like a idiot about now.


Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 6:42pm
don't feel bad, we have all done things that we say later ( Why did I do that ) just part of learning. I did get new locking rings from Illini. mine were worn thin. they did not break but were not all same thickness . I tore my hd4 dozer down completely and put back. rebuilt both final drives, rebuilt trans, rear end with new bearings, seals, gaskets,. rebuilt the shuttle clutch . later on I changes the engine. always something to do on older units. buy I have enjoyed the challenge. never be concerned about asking. I sent you a PM earlier about where you are in Ill. keep in touch. you can check the pump pressure at the shuttle shift valve on left side of seat when you get that far. specs are in the service manual. be safe, keep in touch.


Posted By: Gully
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 6:59pm
Thanks I will


Posted By: Gully
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 7:17pm
For some reason the PM won't open


Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 7:32pm
if you will go your profile and pm me your e-mail address I can send you an attachment of parts manual. randal


Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 7:36pm
I will P M you my e-mail address and you can add it to your contacts list. or did you get the first P M open ?


Posted By: Randaleky
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 7:38pm
well go into my profile randaleky and try to send me the address.


Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 8:21am
Hmm those machined axles - they make a speedy sleeve and a seal to match to repair axle leaks - I bought 3 axles that had been welded up and ground and polished to size - all 3 snapped off as heat treating was ruined when reworked 
 replacement with speedy sleeve was still running when i sold the machine 


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Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel.


Posted By: Gully
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 5:56pm
Where did you get the sleeves didn't know they existed. They didn't weld them but used a epoxy that has steel in it and then turned it on lathe. He said it was real good stuff but was a little worried about it myself. When I got them back they did look good, hope it wasn't a waste of 500 bucks. Called a business that advertised the axles but they said they had been out of stock for 6 months


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 6:12pm
Originally posted by Gully Gully wrote:

Where did you get the sleeves didn't know they existed. They didn't weld them but used a epoxy that has steel in it and then turned it on lathe. He said it was real good stuff but was a little worried about it myself. When I got them back they did look good, hope it wasn't a waste of 500 bucks. Called a business that advertised the axles but they said they had been out of stock for 6 months

Gully, McMaster-Carr can get them in almost any diameter.  I used one on my asv-rc-30, when a bearing failure caused a groove, in an axle...Wink

https://www.mcmaster.com/#speedi-sleeves/=1c8rogj" rel="nofollow - https://www.mcmaster.com/#speedi-sleeves/=1c8rogj


Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 9:33am
Most industrial supply (bearing house) places can get them - cost was real reasonable and like buying 2 seals in total . I think i picked them up from the shop that machined my cases when the outboard axle bearing race ate into case. Both outer cases had to be machined to put in new material to hold that outer cup for the Timken bearing . 

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Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel.



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