Starting AC WD45 after not running 9 years
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=147576
Printed Date: 16 Sep 2025 at 11:17pm
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Topic: Starting AC WD45 after not running 9 years
Posted By: Gore
Subject: Starting AC WD45 after not running 9 years
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 9:03am
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Hello everyone, I have a couple of my Grandpas AC tractors just setting going to waste. Both are WD45. I want to get them up and running (well at least one of them for now). They have been setting unused for about 8-9 years now(stored inside some barns). I know there is going to be a lot of things I need to do before trying to start them. I have been trying to find out as much information as I can to make sure I do everything the best way. I was going to start with cleaning all the old oil and replace it, then rebuilding the carburetor. I’m going to need to purchase a new battery (other
one was stolen), Going to need new spark plugs, empty the gas tank and lines, and
drain the radiator too. I know there is plenty more I can should do? Any and everything someone has to add can be helpful. I know this will take a lot of time and some money. Thanks Gore |
Replies:
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 9:07am
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Clean the contact surfaces of the points in the distributor. Point file or thin emery or fine wet or dry sand paper. Remove only the oxide, don't remove point contact metal. Lubricate the centrifugal advance by a few drops of oil under the distributor rotor. Also the generator bearings if they have oil cups. It could help starting and charging to clean the brushes where they contact the commutators. Emery paper with abrasive out wrapped around the commutator is the way an motor shop would do it. Gerald J. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 9:09am
| Don't spend any $$$ just yet !!!! You start by making sure each engine will turn over by hand !!! If the engines are free, you can proceed from there with oil changes, etc. |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 9:46am
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X2 on what Dr Allis said and I'd add to the list, do you have some history on the tractors, things like how the engine ran, did the trans work OK before they where parked and why they got parked. Then look at what Gerald said. ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: BEK
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 10:18am
If the engines are free, and you know they ran when parked then I'd be tempted to move a little faster. Check the fluid levels. Drain any old gas. Clean the sediment bowl and carb float bowl. Add new/fresh gas. Clean the contacts on the points. Then try to fire them up. These old tractors will run even when things aren't perfect. If they start you will have a number of things that will need your attention and $$$. If they don't start, save your $$$, or get ready to spent a lot.  I'm sure some will disagree, but my secret weapon is to have a can of starting fluid handy. Good luck.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 10:28am
| Use a small flashlite and actually look inside the gas tanks before you add any fresh gas. They may be very dirty,rusty and gunky. Might take a hot power washing and sand blasting to clean up to an acceptable level. |
Posted By: Richardmo
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 10:35am
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We bought a Ca that had been in the shed for over 15 years or more. Did nothing more but clean the points and used temporary gas tank just check out the tractor. Also I check all fluid levels and change the motor oil. First I would do is turn over by the fan and see if hits a hard spot. If does hit a hard spot Check if to see if a valve is stuck by puling the valve cover. |
Posted By: jkoby
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 10:38am
That's without the spark plugs in it, right?
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Richardmo wrote:Posted By: jkoby
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 10:39am
| And, Welcome to the forum Gore! We've had a few new Hoosiers pop in the last few days. |
Posted By: Gore
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 4:59pm
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Thank you everyone, I went to the farm and hand cranked both tractors. Both engines were free and hand cranked easily.. I am going to continue to try to get them started. It will take some time but I will be joining back in as my questions start up. Thanks again, Gore |
Posted By: Gore
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 5:02pm
| I do not have much history about the tractors other than I know my grandpa ran them a lot when I was a kid. He never complained about them not working or acting up. He just stopped using them because he got older and was unable to. |
Posted By: Richardmo
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 6:35pm
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Would be good idea to pull the spark plugs to see what they look like. I clean them up with wire wheel if they need it. The gas tanks most likely will be the biggest issue. |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 7:11pm
| There is some stuff called START that you put in the gas that will clean varnish, dirt etc. out of the carb. better than anything else I've used to get the carb. cleaned up so that it runs better. Can save you the pullin the carb. and going to the extra work. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 10:14pm
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If it was me, the first thing I'd do is ask ANYONE if the tractors were running when they were parked and why. If in fact it was just because he was too old, you shouldn't have much of a problem at all. Then, check how full the gas tank is. If it's full, you won't really have to worry about rust, but maybe gunk. Shut off the gas at the sediment bowl and then disconnect the line down at the carb. Now get a can or jug of some kind and put by the open end of the line. Make sure the receptacle is big enough to hold all the gas that is in the tank. I believe the 45 tank holds 18 gallons. Watch the gas as it goes into your container to see how clean it is. When it is drained, look in the tank with a good flash light and see if there is any build up of gunk. Hopefully it will be as clean as a whistle. You can use the old gas for cleaning up parts etc as you go along now, I'd use NEW gas when you go to start the tractor. Now pull the plugs and gently turn the engine over by hand. if there is any resistance, as suggested, pull the valve cover to check for stuck/sticky valves. Is it a generator or alternator? Clean the plugs and put em back in. Try to start the tractor. I've seen em start after sitting longer than that with nothing done to them first. DO NOT start changing things around!!! Get it started first and then change things one at a time, taking time out to make sure it still runs with new parts. Sometimes a new condenser is NO GOOD right out of the box. ONE thing at a time. Just try to get them started first. But turn em over by hand FIRST ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2018 at 1:02pm
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Yeah... when I'm in this situation, I take a 5-gallon can of gas, a couple quarts of oil, a 1 gallon plastic temporary tank, a battery, two two-gallon jugs of coolant, a couple 14ga jumper wires, flashlight, spare spark plug of ANY type, my Tilly hat, and a can of spray lube. WD-40 works okay for WDs but it may not quite be enough for WD-45s... ALWAYS check the oil first. If it's too high, pull the drain plug for a moment, and see if water or coolant come out. Try to turn the crank over by hand first... trans in neutral, PTO disengaged, and see if it'll turn... feel for compression on each cylinder. If the coolant level is low or non-existant, that doesn't mean it won't run, just don't let it run for long, okay? Remove the sediment bowl, Disconnect the fuel line from carb, Pull the carb drain plug... drain all three into some old container suitable for re-use as an 'accellerant'. Don't be surprised if it doesn't smell like gasoline, and don't be surprised if it's talking to you in Greek as it drips out. Connect temporary tank to carb, run a little fuel into it, and let it rinse the carb... then close the carb drain. If it doesn't overflow out the throat, you're a lucky man... the float and needle are working. Hook up battery, bump starter (make sure bendix doesn't stick). Turn on ignition, disconnect coil wire, lay it close to something groundish, and turn hand crank or bump starter- look for spark. If not, follow Gerald's suggestions to the letter. once you have spark, reconnect wires, put on your hat, pull choke, hit starter, and prepare ye to recieve a raining halo of dirt, rust, and burning mouse-nest embers. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |