70 series 4 bottom plow
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=137291
Printed Date: 23 Sep 2025 at 11:52pm
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Topic: 70 series 4 bottom plow
Posted By: AC720Man
Subject: 70 series 4 bottom plow
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 8:29pm
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I recently purchased a pretty good 70 series semi mount 4 bottom plow. I used it this week and I may need to make adjustments. I dont have a book and haven't seen one yet. Every one I see shows snap coupler not the newer 3 point lift arm attachment. Anyway, I can get the front bottoms down to the colter axle but the rear isn't riding on the depth wheel. It's set for about 10 inches if I am correct by measuring while the plow is setting on level ground, the tire is 10 inches off the ground. I put the hydrolic in float(rear tiller wheel lift). Rear plow is only going about 6 inches deep at most. What am I doing wrong? ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Replies:
Posted By: Matt (Jordan,MN)
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 8:32pm
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Might have a manual. Will check tomorrow ------------- Owner of Matt Scott LLC Specializing in NOS and used Allis Chalmers tractor & implement parts & liturature and Magneto Repair http://www.mattscottllc.com/ |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 8:58pm
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Thx ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 9:03pm
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Will try to post the short video of my brothers newly restored 190XT pulling it. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 9:12pm
| Tilt plow to the left. Is tail wheel stop going against bolt? May need new shears. MACK |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 10:36pm
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With the three point hitch, the lift arms on the tractor set the plow left/right tilt and you want it level with the right side tractors tires in the previous furrow. One way of setting is to put the left wheels on blocks the depth you plan to plow while on level ground and level the plow. The top link usually sets the fore to aft tilt so to get the rear bottom to plow the same as the front bottom the top link needs to be lengthened. Some plows have an adjustable link from the hitch to the back of the plow frame for that adjustment. Gerald J. |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 11:35pm
I agree with Mack. ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
MACK wrote:Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2017 at 8:10am
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Gerald, a semi mount plow wouldn't have a top link. I agree with both Mack on leveling, and about the shears. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2017 at 10:17am
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True the semi mount won't have a top link. I just looked through the plow frames parts book and I found several versions of the semi mount hitch but nothing like a top link to adjust the depth of the rear of the plow. Could very well be the bottoms need deep suck blades (shears) to pull the bottoms down. With my 4x18 modified to 3x18 2000 monoframe plow I never had any problem getting the bottoms pulling down to the rear gauge wheel. It could be that the hitch needs to be lowered to give it less tendency to lift the rear of the plow frame. Gerald J. |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2017 at 10:36am
On a semi-mounted plow the frame is freely floating. The only way to lift it up is the hydraulic lift on the tail wheel. The only way to keep it from digging to deep is the depth gauge wheel. So if the plow is not cutting in to the depth that the gauge wheel is set then the shares are worn and need to be replaced. May or may not need the "deep Suck" shares. This depends on the ground. Just remember that the plow was design to cut at a depth of half the width of the moldboard. So a 14" bottom will be 7" deep, 16" is 8" deep and 18" is 9" deep. ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2017 at 9:16pm
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Good info, the strange thing is it has a top link attaching point on the plow. I didn't use it because it didn't make sense to. I figured the same frame could have been the same for a lift plow. Good points about the shears. Can I still obtain parts for it and if so who is a good supplier? ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2017 at 9:29pm
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The plow frames are the same for the different hitches. Only the hitches change. If it has a top link its a three point hitch, not a semi mount and attaching the top link and lengthening it should put the rear bottom into the ground. Alternatively a weight will do that using the trailing lift wheel and the gauge wheel to set the depth. There are vendors on this forum with plow shears but first you have to identify the plow bottoms. There is an extensive article AC Plows Parts 101 over on the Knowledge Forum that gets into details and links some downloadable plow frame and plow bottoms parts books. You need to find a part number on the moldboard or share or maybe the frog and then in the plow bottoms book you can identify the bottom. And can identify what the part numbers were for shares and other wear parts. Coulters and landsides were practically universal. And AC offered dozens of plow bottoms in 12 to 18" in the 70 family era that fit every plow frame they made. A couple of the latest bottoms still have parts made by aftermarket plow parts makers. Gerald J. |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2017 at 9:34pm
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Can you post a picture of your plow? ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2017 at 8:46am
| I don't intend to argue with Gerald....he may be right. But it surely seems to me, that if you have a 3 point mounted plow, and not a semi mount, your top link would hold the plow up, not "shove" it down. Yes, the longer the link, the more the back of the plow could go in the ground, but with no link at all, the only thing holding it up would be the trailing wheel, since a plow should be wanting to dig in. This is confusing to me. I've never had an Allis mounted plow, but the mounted plows I've had, the trailing wheel was fixed since the 3 pt hitch lifted the whole plow. The gauge wheel is there as just that, a gauge, you don't necessarily have to have it rolling on the ground, just skimming the ground, or even on the frame. The gauge wheel doesn't set or control the depth, it shows you when you get there. IMO. If you have an attachment point for a top link, AND it IS a semi mount plow, then the plow hitch must pivot on it's own? I'm not Allis plow expert, but I do own a deere plow made like that, but much much newer than any Allis plow, it's called a "double pivot hitch". So back to the trailing wheel, it has to be what's holding you up...Is the cylinder travel allowing full adjustment? Is there a stop screw holding you up? You say, "front is down to the coulter axle, but the rear isn't riding on the gauge wheel". How deep is the last bottom plowing? Check the height of the dead furrow wall....and let us know! Bad shears can make it skid across the ground, but if it's like 5 inches deep or something and you want it deeper, there's some other adjustment you need to make.. |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2017 at 9:15am
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The longer the link, the more the tips will point upward, causing the plow to rise and to plow shallower. As the plow rises, the tips even out until a neutral position is reached. Ditto with a shorter top link. It causes the plow to sink deeper before this neutral point is reached. I've never seen a 3pt fully-mounted with a seperete depth adjustment. The crank on an AC plow works in a similar way. It adjusts the forward/backward tilt, changing the depth. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2017 at 9:43am
| That makes some sense too DougS. I guess it depends on how short "short" is and how long "long" is. I could see it both ways. It seems that could change the "suck", not so much the depth, as lowering the 2 arms still puts the front bottom at a depth relative to the tractor, and if you had it "way too short", you could be pulling the tail out of the ground so to speak. Still, if this is a semi mount, the only thing holding it up at the rear of the plow only has to be something in the tail wheel? |
Posted By: 45 turboa-
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2017 at 10:55am
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Do you have a transport valve if you don't the rear of the plow won't stay in the ground. ------------- turbocharged |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2017 at 11:05am
| Maybe try lowering the tail wheel, then putting the hydraulics in neutral rather than float? |
Posted By: Auntwayne
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2017 at 9:18pm
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DougS said it right.
------------- Dad always said," If you have one boy, you have a man. If you have two boys, you have two boys". "ALLIS EXPRESS" |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2017 at 8:13pm
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I'm trying to post some pictures shortly. I have watched videos with tractors using these plows and dont see any using a top link. Not sure why the top link attaching point is there. It appears factory. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2017 at 8:23pm
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The front plow depth is controlled by the lift arms, rear of plow by the hydraulic cylinder at the trailing wheel. The trailing wheel goes down to the stop. The shares could definitely be in need of replacement as the tips are rounded instead of a point. No change if it is in neutral instead of float as far as changing rear depth. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2017 at 8:26pm
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If Matt doesn't have manual I have one. Operating instructions 70 and 80 series 4 and 5 bottom plow (semi mounted) form TM-291A. Have one for a no.74 4-bottom also form TM-160. The shares will make it act all sorts of weird. Start there. Have any part numbers |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2017 at 9:08pm
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No decals other than the small AC ones on the back of the plows. Where should I look for serial numbers or any other identification info? And would like to have at least a copy of a manual. PM me if you would like to sell a manual or if I can pay for a copy. Ty! ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2017 at 9:30pm
| Look on the back of the moldboards for any numbers stamped into it. If no luck un bolt a share to see if any stamped on back of them, if not unbolt shine and look. There should be part numbers stamped on backs of parts, then we can look in plow bottoms parts book and see what no. bottom you have. Yes I will sell you a manual but lets see what you find to make sure have the right modal plow. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 5:48pm
http://s558.photobucket.com/user/rbadhd/media/IMG_0013_zpsfsflccep.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 5:49pm
http://s558.photobucket.com/user/rbadhd/media/IMG_0011_zps7yjul4di.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 5:49pm
http://s558.photobucket.com/user/rbadhd/media/IMG_0010_zpsvwzlffz6.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 5:50pm
http://s558.photobucket.com/user/rbadhd/media/IMG_0009_zps4hqrwzhb.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 5:50pm
http://s558.photobucket.com/user/rbadhd/media/IMG_0008_zpslwgr78nv.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 6:07pm
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Finally got some pictures on the forum! Hope this helps in identifing my plow. The hydraulic hose burst so until I get a new one, I can't fully raise the plow to pull a share to look for numbers. Until then I would just to like to verify that this is what I believe is a series 70 semi mount. Once that has been established I can get a operators manual. Some good ideas from all of you. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 7:03pm
| Just make sure when your working on it up in the air you put some sort of block or jack stand so no accidents happen |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 7:22pm
| I have a seventy series 4 bottom plow but it is a snap couple and non steerable tail wheel. |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 7:26pm
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That is with out a doubt a series 70 plow with the vertical pivot hitch. On this plow you don't use the top link. The place that looks like where you attach the top link is not for the top link. It's for a part called a trunnion (part #70340818). You can use the plow without the trunnion with no ill affects. The plow should dig down until the gauge wheel stops it. If it don't then the shares need to be replaced. Before you replace the shares made sure that the pivot points on the plow do indeed pivot.
------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 7:29pm
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I see the bolts in the frame cross bars, that makes it 70 or 80. The difference between 70 and 80 is that the 70 came with shear bolt plow shanks and the 80 came with spring trip plow shanks. There were kits for replacing the 60 and 70 shanks with spring trip. 60s didn't have any bolts in the cross bars so were fixed width. I covered those details in AC Plows Parts 101 over in the knowledge forum. Definitely worth reading for such details. The gauge and rear lift wheels look big. In the plow frames parts book I see 9", 13", 14" and 15" wheels and tires used without explanation of why the different sizes. A gauge wheel or lift wheel too large can prevent that end of the plow going into the ground deep enough to be level. There should be part numbers stamped in the plow frame parts that could also be used to identify the frame from the plow frames book referenced in the AC Plow Parts 101 over in the Knowledge Forum. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 7:34pm
| Gerald dont you still have to get some part numbers off ether moldboard, shine, or share to identify what no. bottom it is for replacement parts |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 7:38pm
Yes, Allis had many bottoms that could be used on the same frames. ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 7:47pm
| I thought so just didn't want to put my foot in mouth lol and say the wrong thing. Thanks |
Posted By: old farmer
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 8:16pm
| It looks to me like the gage set to close to the ground which hold plow up on rear. We always had the gage set to not touch the ground until we had set the plow to good UNTIL the final adjustmens made always worked at the dealership. |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 9:01pm
Looks like the tail wheel is sitting on the lower ground then the gauge wheel. ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Posted By: old farmer
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 9:08pm
| You need to have gage wheel reference to plow bottoms not tail wheel. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2017 at 6:38am
If you read his OP, he states the gauge wheel does not touch the ground. |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2017 at 7:01am
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You are correct, the gauge wheel did not contact the ground much of the time. I tried adjusting the lift arms, setting the tiller to float and neutral, it just didn't make a difference. The ram is only a single direction unit (1 hose) so it doesn't have the 2 hoses to be able to lift it off the ground. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2017 at 7:07am
The Joys of rusty bolts! Caught a rock... ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2017 at 10:44am
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The part numbers on the frame will only identify the frame, not the bottoms. To identify the bottoms part numbers have to come from frog, moldboard, shin, or share. Landsides were almost universal as were coulters. I believe that when ordering a plow that there were at least three orders made to AC by the dealer. One for the frame, one for the hitch, and one for the bottoms. That there were no typical setups in the AC sales catalog. And then the dealer received three kits that the dealer assembled. But maybe each bottom came as a separate kit. Gerald J. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2017 at 9:11pm
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Thanks Gerald, I will check out the plow 101 info. I still could not locate any numbers on the frame but will check the back of the shares when I get a chance to take 1 off. Neat plow, it got the job done, just need to figure out the rear. The way I look at it, the trailing wheel goes to the same depth that the rear plow cut. As it sits now, all bottoms flat on the ground, the trailing wheel is against the stop which means it will not go deeper than the rear plow. The guage wheel is approximatly 10" off the ground. The picture is decieving, but I measured it with a tape when on level ground. Therefore I came up with the plow should run 10" deep. ?? ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 6:55am
| So....can the stop on the trailing wheel be adjusted? A little goes a long way. And again, the gauge wheel does not set depth, it shows you when you're at depth. Solve the mystery of the plow depth adjustment, then position your gauge wheel so that it "shows you" when you're at depth. You should be able to plow correctly with the gauge wheel completely removed. |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 8:03am
Sorry that I didn't notice the extra stop on the tail wheel. I have been searching for this part in the parts book. I could not find it at all in any of the tail wheel assy. The assy's don't even show the hole where it's mounted. This would cause me to believe that it's not a factory part and someone added it. If it were my plow I would take it out and use the gauge wheel. Then you will have full control of depth and relieve the pressure off the pivot assy. http://s161.photobucket.com/user/caallis/media/70%20and%2080%20Series%20Plows/Tail%20wheel%2070%2080%20series_zpsuqqafvvq.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 8:11am
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Dennis, without a doubt you know more about this plow than I do. In a sense, we are on the same page with our advice, removing or adjusting the stop so the back of the plow can drop. All the plows I have pulled that were equipped with gauge wheels, the gauge wheel mounting is quite "loose". Not worn out, but made that way. Between the time the gauge wheel starts to roll, and the time the slack would be taken up, there could be 2-3 inches in depth back there. This is just my experience. Also, all the tail wheels I have used, have a stop adjustment....and the tail wheel has a slight steer in it to help align the plow. So why would you want to take the weight off of it? |
Posted By: JoeO(CMO)
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 8:25am
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On some semi-mount plows you will see a top link bracket. This is used for the weight transfer for the particular tractor pulling it. I have an Oliver Semi Mount and in the manual is a pic of an Oliver with top link attached describing this setup. All tractors do not use trailing arms to sense load. MF is another one that used the top link for this purpose. This plow simply could have been used by another brand tractor. This plow DEFINITLY needs new shares! The landslide shown needs to be replaced also when trying to clean up the furrow. New shares should be installed FIRST or you will possibly be returning the adjustments back to where you started after shares are replaced. When you get shares and if there is a choice, go for the heavy duty, they were thicker at the point. I had on to go down under like a stubbed toe, and it messed up the plowing job as you could go to the spot where contact was made. There used to be special shear bolts also that helps to keep the plow frame from twisting over time. BTDT many times ------------- |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 8:49am
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This is really fun for me because all of your plows had a stop on the tail wheel and none of my plow ever had a stop on them, so this is every interesting. All of my semi-mounted plows use the gauge wheel to set the depth. This can be a little tedious because of the tire compression, but once set it stays set. As for taking off the stop, I am concerned that the casting may not be strong enough to support the weight of the plow, ground flowing over the moldboard and the force of the plow being pulled down by the shares.
------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 9:03am
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I'd wish for a double acting cylinder and hydraulics for the rear wheel. On my gas 4020 there is about 350 psi minimum with a single acting cylinder, far too much to allow manually closing a cylinder for hooking it to an implement. Could be a limiting factor in lifting the rear wheel to let the plow go in the ground. The rear wheel rides in the furrow left by the rear bottom when plowing. When lifting the plow it takes two operations, lifting the front with the tractor hitch and lifting the rear with the rear wheel. When the front hitch pivots the link bar on top turns the rear wheel so the plow can turn in a short space. And it takes two operations to put the plow in the ground, lower the front with the tractor hitch and lower the rear by lifting the rear wheel. When finishing the last furrows in the middle of my field with my semi mounted 2000 monoframe, I held the rear bottom shallow with the rear wheel so as to not leave a big ridge, or I lifted the front with the tractor hitch to make the front plow shallow while the rear did full depth, depending on the direction with respect to the last furrows that sometimes overlapped from opposite directions. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 9:10am
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Dennis, yes, it is fun and interesting to hear all the differences in plows and in people's experiences. As for concern about the casting strength.....well.....I don't know about this plow. But one of the plows I have pulled over the years was not equipped with a gauge wheel, ever, and I pulled it for decades with no trouble, holding the tail end up with the wheel. Gerald, I agree with most of what you just said, except two things. #1, he says it is hitting the stop on the tail wheel. So it literally can't go down any farther regardless of pressure. #2 I'm not so confident in, but he says he has tried it in float, and in neutral, and no difference. Wouldn't float defeat the issue you are concerned about? The way you describe doing dead furrow passes is exactly how I do it, just depends on the direction and where the tractor is tracking. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 7:53pm
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Thats interesting Dennis that the stop doesn"t appear in the parts book. It looks factory and even has a blind nut that a adjusting bolt would go in so it could be adjusted. The adjusting bolt has been removed to get maximum depth I suppose. The second picture shows it resting againt the stop. Looks like new shares are needed to further diagnose my issue. That may be all I need to do. Will be this fall till I plow again unless I get some extra time to take the shares off ahead of time. All the bolts holding the plow shanks on need to be replaced. When #2 broke it took 2 hours to get the broken bolts out. Rusted in like you wouldn't believe. Between heat and 3 broken drill bits they finally came out, but only because I drilled most of the bolt out before I could drive it out. I put grade 8 up top and grade 5 for the shear bolt. Also put never seize on the bolts to make future replacement easier. Mikez may have a book for it I hope. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 8:04pm
Gerald, you are correct in the lifting and lowering operation. The origional hydaulic lift came with the plow and it is a single hose attachment. The hose burst so i recently took it off to get a repalcement. Lift only, no down pressure. My guess is this weighs 1,200-1,500 lbs. With good shares and plenty of weight it should work fine. It was lifting Gary's 180 rear tires off the ground at times when he was loading it on my trailer with his loader. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 6:37am
| As I beat the dead horse one more time.....how are new shares going to go deeper than a dead stop holding it up? Not that new shares are ever a bad thing, but I just don't see it. If the plow is skidding, not penetrating sod, riding high not on the stop, yep new shares needed. How will new shares go deeper than a dead stop? |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 8:37am
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I wouldn't put new shares on. If the plow is digging down to the depth you want then new share are not needed. ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 8:09pm
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That's what we are trying to figure out. The trailing wheel is behind the rear plow, so it should ride as deep as the rear plow goes. It would help to see the setup of the plow in a manual which is what I trying to find now. It was mentioned earlier about the rotation of the hitch needs to be to the left as the tractor sits in the previous furrow to make the plow level again. Without the book, my thinking from previous post is you would go into the field with the plow being level side to side. The next round, as you pull into the furrow, get off the tractor and rotate the hitch with the adjuster to regain plow level. Then you are set to plow the rest of the field. My dads Oliver 3 bottom has this built in to the 3 point hitch, as both sides have a crook or bend where the arms attach which rotates the plow to the left making it level when you pull into the furrow on round 2. Makes sense to me but what do I know. This one has thrown me for a loop. I am gathering info to solve the puzzle. I may be way off with that conclusion. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 8:54pm
| The book I have shows that plow with snap coupler hitch on it. Looks just like it and the bracket is where the beaming screw goes into. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 5:35am
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Guess it wouldn't matter if the the book is snap coupler. Does it show the screw jack that rotates the plow left to right? Not sure what bracket your talking about? Where the plow would rotate? ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 8:25pm
| Not really. Think what your referring to is the winging link. After you make a path and you have a furrow and its at the depth you like stop while plowing with plows in ground and the right tire in furrow. You want the your plow frame level with ground. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 9:08pm
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Mikez sounds like we are both thinking the same thing, without the book I dont know the correct part names. I can see if the plow is not level while in the furrow, and its tilted to the right, the shares would be tilted away from the ground preventing them from digging in. Tilt to the left to level the plow and hopefully she will dig in. Sounds logical. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2017 at 7:18am
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Could the tail wheel be too large? Looks like if it went down any further it would rub the frame. I have that same plow, but the snap coupler version, and have no trouble with it going to proper depth. Can be seen it action on you tube /Mattpehl ------------- Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives. |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2017 at 8:22am
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If you have a long level piece of concrete, it is fairly easy to set a plow before you go to the field. Determine the depth you desire. Lower the plow. Place blocks, which are the same thickness as the desired depth, under the left rear tractor wheel. Lower the plow. Place a board, equal thickness to the height of the point, to level the shear. Adjust the hitch to a level position (side to side and front to rear). A carpenter level works nicely. Adjust the gauge wheel to the desired depth.
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