180 brake replacment how bad
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Topic: 180 brake replacment how bad
Posted By: rudyk
Subject: 180 brake replacment how bad
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 6:09pm
| How bad of a job is it to do the brakes on a 180 |
Replies:
Posted By: Gary(WI)
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 6:10pm
| Left side easy Right side quite a bit harder |
Posted By: rudyk
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 6:11pm
| whats the best way to go about it, I am very inexperienced in this |
Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 6:33pm
|
It is best to have a good floor to work on and a cherry picker to remove the final drive. Remove the seat and fenders. Drain the transmission if you plan on replacing the shaft seal. Remove cylinder pins...this can be your first hurdle if they are rusted in. Jack up one side (do one side at a time). Remove cylinder bracket and remove final drive. Remove pins that hold brake bands in (hurdle #2). Take brake drum off shaft and put final drive back in tractor. Measure gap where brake drum was..I think it need to be 2.03 to 2.04" if my memory serves me right. If it doesn't fall in this range, you have to add shims to the final drive side. Remove and shim if necessary. If changing inner seal, remove housing and do that. Rivet new pads on brake drum, check springs and balls and re-install with final drive, careful not to damage the inner seal. Rivet new pads on bands and reinstall. Assemble the rest of the stuff and adjust brakes. Here is a pic of how I dealt with the hydraulics side. After you do 4 or more it gets easier LOL! http://s29.photobucket.com/user/ejons/media/004_zps302oojlu.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- ALLIS EXPRESS! This year: |
Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 6:47pm
|
Some more pics http://s29.photobucket.com/user/ejons/media/005_zpsqs8uw0mq.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  Top hole is why the cylinder bracket has to come off...I used a half inch bolt and washers to make a puller to get this pin out...you may have a slide hammer to use. http://s29.photobucket.com/user/ejons/media/006_zpsnnwu8dqg.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s29.photobucket.com/user/ejons/media/007_zpskoajnhkb.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  You will need a good 12pt socket to get this bolt out that holds the cylinder bracket on. http://s29.photobucket.com/user/ejons/media/008_zps6dtzf4ge.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  Tie up the cylinder so you don't damage the hose. http://s29.photobucket.com/user/ejons/media/009_zps9lguvjiy.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  You might have to use a hot wrench to remove some parts....fortunately I had spares. http://s29.photobucket.com/user/ejons/media/012_zps0mj7fu0d.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  I order a little rivet tool from these guys and did my own pad replacements. http://s29.photobucket.com/user/ejons/media/014_zpsicmxqcwp.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- ALLIS EXPRESS! This year: |
Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 7:56pm
|
You can do it. Did our D17 IV and very similar to yours. Just need a chainfall and a rigging point in the barn or garage, another set of muscles to pull the final drives off. Used a chainfall to get them off. Took maybe 6 hours for each side. But we did one side, ran the tractor for a few weeks and then did the other side. So we had to take things off again, but what else am I gonna do with my time??? Hammer and flat punch for peening the rivets. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 8:58pm
| Don't need to remove lower cylinder bracket. I never go to the trouble to try measuring between the two ware surfaces. Replace what is needed, slide final drive back on, tighten two bolts and with feeler gauge, check clearance between drum and one ware surface. If it is between .060 and .090, finish job. If not remove final drive and +or- shim according. MACK |