WC firing on 3 cylinders
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13042
Printed Date: 01 Feb 2025 at 3:47am
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Topic: WC firing on 3 cylinders
Posted By: Byron WC in SW Wi
Subject: WC firing on 3 cylinders
Date Posted: 27 May 2010 at 6:39pm
My 47 WC is not firing on #1. I've tried switching spark plugs and plug wire. It has all new electrical system and cap. I don't know if the timing is off or even how to adjust it? Valves? Any ideas are appreciated.
Thank you,
Byron
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Replies:
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 27 May 2010 at 6:45pm
Does it have a distributor or magneto? A valve not closing/sealing would cause a misfire. A cracked distributor cap can cause a misfire. Have you checked the compression? Low/no compression will cause a misfire.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 27 May 2010 at 6:50pm
Are you sure it fires on the other 3? I have heard 4 cylinders running with 2 plug wires crossed that sound like they are only missing one cylinder. I would take number one plug out and ground it to the tractor and see if you are getting spark to it. If you are, make sure it fires on the compression stroke. I would then check compression on #1. If you don't have a compression gauge, stick your thumb over the hole while cranking and see if you can feel it come up on compression. Actually if you crank it with the starter you should be able to hear the air being forced out of the plug hole. If that don't seem right you may have to pull the valve cover and check that your valves are going up and down.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Byron WC in SW Wi
Date Posted: 27 May 2010 at 7:11pm
It's distributor fired. When I pull the plugs off the cylinders the engine runs rougher but not with number one. Though number four seems to do it less than two and three.
I took the valve cover off and they seem to be operating. One of the rocker arms was loose on #1 so I screwed that down but it probably didn't need to be.
I advanced the spark plug wires, in order, both ways and it wouldn't start so I'm pretty sure it's in the right spot.
How do you set the valves?
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 27 May 2010 at 7:15pm
Try switching number 1 and number 4 wires around once just for the heck of it.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 27 May 2010 at 10:56pm
Try removing the #1 plug, and swapping it with the #4 plug.
if the #4 cylinder stops firing, and #1 starts, you have Champion spark plugs.
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Posted By: Byron WC in SW Wi
Date Posted: 27 May 2010 at 11:27pm
Guys messing with me? I can try that but how would that be different than switching one and two spark plugs around like I tried?
If I switched one with four the firing order would be different than what is stamped on the side of the engine.
I can't believe I'm not getting a spark on #1 but I think it would either be that or valves not letting fuel or air in. I don't know. I'm too tired to think. Thank you for the replies.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 7:54am
Somebody had to have put new wires in the new cap. Just thinking maybe you got them switched. You can't change the firing order by switching plug wires around,but you can correct a misfire if the wires were wrong to begin with. Take the distributor cap off and remove number one plug. Crank the engine over till you feel number one come up on compression stroke, paying attention to which direction the rotor is turning. When you feel compression on one bring that piston to top dead center and look to see where the rotor is pointing. If it doesn't point to the wire you had on number one it won't run right. The direction of the rotor turning tells you which plug to wire up using the firing order.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 10:57am
take the number one spark plug out . hold your finger over the hole turn the engine over slowly when you feal the most compression against your finger thats the compresion stroke. Take the dist. cap off the rotor button will be pointing at number one. then wire 1243 clockwise from there. If number one still doesnt change try a different plug wire also on that cylinder. To adjust the valve go to the support page I have posted on a c series tractor how to do that . http://www.allischalmers.com/new/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12885&title=valve-adjusting-on-allis-c - http://www.allischalmers.com/new/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12885&title=valve-adjusting-on-allis-c
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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra
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Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 2:08pm
In the shade I could tell my boots were arcing to the block. I had angled boots on the plugs, switch to straight boot wires and it cleared up.
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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 3:22pm
Byron- when I mentioned swapping the plugs... I've occasionally found that a plug appears perfectly fine in free air, but won't fire when under compression... there's usually a discharge path INSIDE the plug, that you can't see... where fuel and air can't be.
I've also found, that of all plugs, most plug failures I've dealt with, were Champions. <shrug>.
As for valves... if the cylinder is running extremely lean (manifold leak, poor valve sealing, etc), the mixture will NOT light up properly. It is for this reason, that whenever I have a head off something, I always take some lapping compound and a sucker-stick to 'em... it's fast and easy, so no sense in ignoring it.
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Posted By: Byron WC in SW Wi
Date Posted: 29 May 2010 at 6:35am
Thank you for explaining that makes sense. I've swapped out wires and plugs but will try the 1 to 4 thing. It could be being lean as my manifold has at least one hole, (on exhaust side), in it and is cracked between the exhaust and intake side.
My brother in law, who used to be a tractor mechanic, is in town for the holiday and hopefully will look at it today.
Thanks for the help.
Byron
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 29 May 2010 at 8:45am
If you have a cracked manifold, it's probably the 'primary' cause of lean-ness. Do check the plugs, though. Really, in this type of situation, it really IS worth it to take the time to pull the manifold, lift off the head, take a good close look inside, and then lap the valves.
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