More B questions
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=130375
Printed Date: 03 Jul 2024 at 12:55am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: More B questions
Posted By: Ranse
Subject: More B questions
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 10:43pm
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I know I should just get a manual on this tractor and quit harassing everyone. My question now is about the electrical system. For starters it has no switch or key, it doesn't even have a place for one. To start the tractor, you push the throttle forward, step on the starter, and you're running. This part works fine. To stop the tractor, you simply pull the throttle back. When I looked at and test drove the tractor it shut off very quickly by doing this. It even worked after I got it home just driving it around the yard. But now I've been using it some and running it harder and I've had some trouble getting it to shut off. Most of the time now when you throttle it all the way down it keeps running. So now I'm beginning to doubt if this is the way it should be. Is this the normal way you operate a B, or is it supposed to have a key or some type of switch? I looked at CA once I was thinking about buying and it did have a key. Another thing, this tractor has no lights or anything. The only thing I see electrical on it is the starter. I did ask the previous owner if it was a six volt or converted twelve. He said it was still all six volt except the battery. He said this wasn't a problem because it only works the starter and it starts so quickly it wouldn't hurt it. It does start very good, but I'm not sure this is a good idea. I don't really know how to convert one, would I be better off to get a six volt battery? I don't want to fry anything and then it won't run. Thanks. |
Replies:
Posted By: ryanschott
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 10:51pm
| putting 12v to a 6 v starter is fine the windings are thicker for 6v. just dont put 6v to a 12v starter. i have several 6v starters that have 12v systems and have been fine for years |
Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 5:18am
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There should be a mag kill switch in the small box on the rear of thr battery box. Simple push pull switch with a single wire running to the mag. AaronSEIA |
Posted By: Dek Thorne
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 6:31am
| I just turn the fuel off on mine to stop it |
Posted By: cpg
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 6:37am
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Some of the early ones with a magneto have a little metal piece that connects to the little ground screw on the side of the magneto. You would shut if off by pushing the metal piece against the metal body of the magneto which would ground it out and shut it off. |
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 7:41am
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All of the green 2 lungers with mags never had a kill switch, you just put them in road gear, throttled them back and stalled them. Dusty ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: Hubert (Ga)engine7
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 9:46am
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Asking questions is not harassment, most of the people on this Forum are happy to share their knowledge and opinions. Having a manual is recommended but it won't answer a lot of the questions you may have that can be answered by the experience available here. A lot of these older tractors have been modified in various ways over the years but usually someone on here is familiar with the mod. Sounds like you have an earlier model which did not come with any electrical but had a starter added later. The torque tube on the first ones had no place for a starter, hand crank only, later ones had the torque tube modified for a starter with a blank plate covering the hole. There should be a metal tab on the side of the magneto that grounds out the mag to stop the engine and a wire could be run from the mounting stud on this to a kill switch mounted on the steering tube post. I have one that the tab does not work so like you I pull the throttle back and stall it in 3rd if closing the throttle doesn't kill it. ------------- Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 1:10pm
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I have a couple B manuals on line at: http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf about 11 MB and http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/BMilitary.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/BMilitary.pdf about 1.6 MB. I'm not sure if its a farm B or an IB but its hand cranked with a magneto so should be close to your tractor. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 9:34pm
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Thanks everyone for all the information. From what I've read, this doesn't sound like a big problem, and that's good. I just figured someone removed the switch key in the passed. I'm also glad the twelve volt battery won't hurt anything. Although, I do believe I may have a bad axle seal. I noticed a lot of oil the other day after running the tractor, but not on the tractor itself, just on the inside of the wheel. I can't see around the axle. I might try to reach up and feel for it, but I'll probably have to remove the wheel to see. I can't think of anywhere else the oil could be coming from. Is this a difficult job to do? And can you buy seals from an Agco dealer? Thanks again Ranse. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 10:32pm
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you cant reach up and feel the seal. The tire / rim has to be removed and then the center cast hub.. or you can remove the 2 inch axle nut and try to get the hub/ rim/ tire off as one piece... Once the hub is off , you will see the seal countersunk into the case. Sets in slightly and the hub covers it up so you cant feel for it. YOu should be able to pull it out with some effort and replace with a new seal......... the "oil" that leaks out should be gear lube from the final drive case / pan. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 9:40am
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12 volts on a B 6 volt starter has caused hard starting on occasion with a magneto. It can spin the engine fast enough the impulse start mechanism of the magneto quits working and so the spark is poor. The B manual I referenced said, "don't spin the engine with the crank" for the same reason. The starter will survive though. Stopping was never a key switch, but just a momentary normally open button to short the points in the magneto to kill spark to stop the engine. When the points circuit doesn't open there is no spark. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 10:02pm
| Yes Steve, the oil I cleaned off the rim was very thick like gear grease. This puzzled me because I thought everything run in the same transmission fluid. I thought maybe the oil had been on there long enough the dry out some, although the oil looked clean and I didn't notice it before. How does a man check this gear lube, add or change it? I was planning to continue using this tractor for a few months before I fixed it. If I do this, I need to keep this oil topped off. Thanks a lot Ranse. |
Posted By: Hubert (Ga)engine7
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2016 at 7:14am
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The pan on the final drive housing has a small pipe plug on the inboard side about midway that you use to check and fill the gear lube. To change the lube you have to remove the pan and clean out all of the gunk that has accumulated over the years. You can make your own replacement gaskets or buy some from the vendors that support this site. ------------- Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God. |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2016 at 7:19am
It's easier to kill "HALF" an engine  ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Dusty MI wrote:Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2016 at 7:45am
Lol!
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Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2016 at 8:03am
| Thanks Hubert, I'll check that out. How would you add oil? I guess you could use a plastic bottle and squirt it in that hole, kind of like putting lower unit lube in an outboard engine. Although I probably shouldn't put this job off. I may try to remove the wheel today and see what's going on. Thanks. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2016 at 12:23pm
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yes, squirt the gear lube in with a bottle and tube......... easier with the hub / tire off....... better access ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2016 at 12:25pm
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your seal may be something like this..........
Outer seal 2.500-3.548 .500 lip seal CR 25065 ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |