Farm Equipment - 190XT power director help

190XT power director help

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13035
Printed Date: 01 Feb 2025 at 1:40am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: 190XT power director help

Posted By: Reed(UT)
Subject: 190XT power director help
Date Posted: 27 May 2010 at 3:01pm

I have a 190-XT III that I am having problems with the power-director. This tractor is new-to-me, and when we got it, the power director only works in low range. High range does nothing, no creep at all. I have pulled the selector valve off (which looks ok, I think), and looked inside the access plate, but can’t see anything. I understand the clutch plates run on oil pressure, and it appears to be getting flow to both ports of the selector valve.

Can anyone point me in a direction to troubleshoot this?

Thanks!

Reed

-------------
2 WD45s, 190XT III, 72 AllCrop, Bunch of snap-coupler stuff. Looking for a B and CA

Replies:

Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 27 May 2010 at 8:26pm

I hate to tell you this but it probably needs a rebuild, a fix- it manual really helps here, but I,ll try ; to check the pressures remove right back side panel as you are sitting on the tractor , there is a - TEE- hyd. fitting ; remove the line coming off the -TEE- cap it the single line , then you need a hyd. hose with a 300 lb. gauge to test the hyd. pressure on the PD system ; with the gauge hose hooked up at the -TEE- - DO NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN THE OTHER LINE IS CAPPED- then run the engine at 1600 rpm, move POWERDIRECTOR to low side- gauge should read 255-270; then move to high side should be the same; on 190,s with a hyd. pto setup the pressure is 295-310 lbs;should be 60 lbs. in neutral ; there is adjustment on the powerdirector linkage to move the piston -more\ less- ; if the needle on the gauge bounces around and wont stay constant - the sealing rings are out ,this will tell you if the correct pressure is there ; on the side of the Powerdirector housing there is a square plate under the PD control valve that can be removed to look and see if the tubes are hooked up ; let us know how it goes, I bet if you pull the sump drain screen there are pieces of Powerdirector plates in there ; the expenses on the clutch + steel plates you need are,nt too badly priced, BUT if the clutch hubs are shot ; then it can get high dollar !!!!

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 27 May 2010 at 8:46pm

Series 3's have pressure tap plugs (allen head) on the side of the valve. Put the valve back on and see what the pressures are.

Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 27 May 2010 at 9:58pm

Did you check the linkage for slack? If it is loose it will not fully stroke the valve. This includes the bellcrank bushings.

Posted By: AndrewGubbels
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 5:07am

If you already have your valve off go ahead and put air pressure into the two smaller tubes and at the same time was your power director clutch packs. If an oring is blown or something leaking past you will see it leak past or it will not pop the packs together. Also visually inspect them, they should have tabs on all the plates I have seen the break off and just spin inside the housing. That is what it sounds liketo me if you have already check the valve over. I would be more then happy to help you out if you had any other questions. just shoot me an email.

Andrew

-------------
Andrew Gubbels
Gubbels Restoration

Posted By: Reed(UT)
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 8:57am

Update:

I do have the AC Service Manual, but it doesn't give a lot of info about the clutch itself.

I put the valve back on and checked the pressure at the allen-head ports; they are both at 220 psi when the valve is in high/low respectively. The linkage is also tight.

On the clutch, I could only count (I think) 4 plates in the front stack, 3 in the rear stack -- is this right? Seems like somewhere I read that there should be 5 & 4. One of the stacks had a little play in them (I could move them around a bit with my fingers), the other stack was tight.

If I have to get the clutch out, i imagine it involves splitting the tractor, doesn't it?

I didn't think about checking the line with air like Andrew said, may try that this weekend. Will also drain the sump completely and look for traces of broken parts.

Reed

-------------
2 WD45s, 190XT III, 72 AllCrop, Bunch of snap-coupler stuff. Looking for a B and CA