WD45 Final Drive - Tool Inquiry - long post
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Topic: WD45 Final Drive - Tool Inquiry - long post
Posted By: Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
Subject: WD45 Final Drive - Tool Inquiry - long post
Date Posted: 26 May 2010 at 11:57am
So I tore into the left side and found quite a mess. 50+ year old gear oil/ water mix has a very unique smell. I want to replace the bearings on the axle. What is required tool- wise to remove the bearings from the axle? Books says snap ring to free the bull grear. Then simple bolt to free the axle from the lower housing. Is the outer bearing pressed on? How would you get the seal in the housing then? Any step by step advise would be helpful.
  ------------- 1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater" |
Replies:
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 26 May 2010 at 12:33pm
|
Jeff, here's what I see in the service manual:
"To remove axle and drive gear, remove pan from housing, remove bearing cap, remove capscrew, washed and shims, remove the gear retaining snap ring from splined axle, and push axle from gear and housing. Remove bearing cup from housing.
In some disassemblies, the oil seal and outer bearing cone may be removed with axle, also at times they both may remain in housing, depending on tightness of bearing fit to axle. If oil seal and outer bearing cone remain in housing, they will both be removed as bearing cup is driven from housing."
HTH - at least some!
BTW, that slop is nasty looking stuff! ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Boomer
Date Posted: 26 May 2010 at 12:36pm
| I will attempt to attack this. In the last 18 months I have done several WD45 and CA final drives, but I am no expert. The big gear (bull gear) should come out first, then the brake drum, followed by beating the long shaft out towards the tire. This outer bearing will probably be bad, but DO NOT destroy it. This bearing and race are extremelly expensive. The long shaft is installed first, may have to shimm to get the required free spin. This outer bearing should be lubricated with a grease because in my experience the oil does not get up there very well. Whenever I have my tires off, I grease this bearing. Install the seal for the bull gear, and be very very carefull when inserting the shaft, snap ring, bull gear, spacer tube, and inner bearing so you don't ruin this seal, I usually order a extra seal in case I ruin it. Despite ordering the same size bearing/race you may have to trim the spacer tube so the snap ring can go onto the bull gear. I do a "dry fit" without the seal, so if I have to trim that spacer tube I don't ruin the oil seal. I put "Loc-Tite" on the bolt that secures the lower inner bearing to the bull gear shaft. Take your time, this is not hard, just make sure that everything free spins with no end play. If needed, I think I still have all the bearings, races, and seals wrote down in the shop to send you. This is not the AGCO numbers. Also, since you are this far into the tractor, you should replace the seals from the differential. |
Posted By: Boomer
Date Posted: 26 May 2010 at 12:38pm
| When putting on the oil pan, I make my own gaskets and place gasket maker to both sides of the gasket. |
Posted By: Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
Date Posted: 26 May 2010 at 12:40pm
|
Dave, Thanks. I have the I&T Manual as well as the service manual. Both same generally the same thing, what you have outlined. Really wanting insight on the true process. To me, seems too easy. What are the details and tools the manual does not cover. If the bearings require pressing on, how in the heck would that outer seal get installed??? ------------- 1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater" |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 26 May 2010 at 12:52pm
|
Ah - you are looking for EXPERIENCED advice! ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Kevin
Date Posted: 26 May 2010 at 3:05pm
| Jeff, I just replace these on my D17..Remove the dust cap remove the center bolt spacer and shims, also the snap ring on the axle shaft.. I had to heat the bearing (Small One) then drive out with hammer/Punch.. I put the bolt back in so I would'nt damage threads. The outer seal and bearing will come out as one with the axle.. I had to press bearing off.. I put the axle shaft in the Freezer, I installed the outer bearings and seal, then put axle in, bull gear etc.. I still had to drive the axle in with sledge and 4x4 block. I also heated the inner axle bearing when the axle was in far enought to install it.. helped with keeping axle aligned.. I dont know if part numbers are diferent/Axles look the same.. but here are the ones for the D17 axle inner bearings timken 24780,24720.. outer 394AS,395S Seal 417172.. Any questions give me a call 270-836-4054. help you the best way I can |